Alpinfox

WOOOHOOO! Thanks Dave. They still have harnesses, rock shoes, boots, a few sterling ropes, small hexes, small nutz, a few knifeblades, perlon by the spool, BD carabiners (no ovals, lockers, or wiregates), ATCs, water-ice crampons, a couple of crappy "MountainEars"-style ice axes... No cams left. I got pretty much the last of em Wish I had gotten there earlier, but I still got some good stuff. $5 for a new harness

I agree with Tex (and others) that the "no downclimbing allowed whatsoever" requirement for an "onsight" or "redpoint" is absurd. By extension of that arguement, any downward motion of your body would constitute a failure on the first attempt. For the record, I think this argument is pretty dumb, but here I am adding to it, so I'm dumb too. A wise man (and founder of this website) once said, "everyone on the internet is stupider for having read this thread". My answers: Yes, Yes, Pink

Out of stock

WOW! Thanks a lot everybody! Assuming I can smuggle my biohazardous climbing shoes onto the plane, it looks like I will have some climbing options. MisterE has warned me about sketchy protection in those "eyebrow" features at LGR, so if I go there I think I'll start with a non-challenging route. Can anyone recommend any hot 4th class routes? Thanks again for the suggestions and I'll pursue some of the contact info you guys provided when I have a better idea of what my schedule and transportation situation is going to be. Cheers.

I don't know if I will be able to borrow a car yet. If I can get wheels, I'll drive a few hours (up to 4 say?) for good climbing. I'd prefer to do roped climbs, but if I can't find partners, I'll do some bouldering. Really!?!??! Surely not in April, but I'm surprised there is any at all in Appaliachia!

Howdy ya'll, I'll be in Asheville, NC for a cousin's wedding from Apr.22-27 (I think those are the dates) and if there is climbing to be had around there, I wanna "had" me some. Recommendations? Is it worth stinking up my nice wedding clothes by throwing the rock shoes in my luggage? Anybody in that area, or gonna be in that area, that might wanna show a Cascade climber how cool appalachian climbing can be? I don't know what kind of transportation options I will have and I'm not sure of my exact schedule, but I'm sure I could squeeze a two or three day trip in there somewhere. Cheers. p.s. If you read this and want to contact me, but don't want to register on cc.com (I don't blame you, everyone here is a bunch o' wankers and whiners anyway ) then email me at alpinfox(at)yahoo(dot)com. I check that account periodically.

The route is in the book as Ground Hog Day 5.7 (prolly a bit easier though) on Tumwater Buttress. A set of stoppers and a few cams should suffice. Contrary to what Alpinfox said the route is not new, just "rediscovered" Thanks Slaphappy, I looked in the new guidebook this weekend and saw that my grading estimate was a little low. Thanks for clearing that up.

Looks nice Dave! dumping the "dbb" eh?

MMMmmm..... Transfattyacids.....

Mr.E, check the "der" post for a "private" message.

Those store-bought, $7/package, Mountain-Aire things are definitely bullshit and I've never bought any of them. I did score a bunch from the 'free box' at Talkeetna Air Taxi, but I haven't eaten them. However, I've had some damn tasty homemade dehydrated stuff. Dehydrated veggies added to pasta+cheese or soup or whatever are mighty tasty. Dehydrated fruit (Mangoes! Bananas!) are really tasty and good for you. My dried mangoes were really popular on the glacier and I was able to trade them for good stuff. I've heard of people dehydrating entrees (like Pad Thai from your favorite local restaurant) and supposedly that works pretty well too.

[pm]Why don't you give me a call sooner and let me know what I should bring (food? gear?) besides the rope we discussed earlier and where/when we should meet.[/pm]

Even if you gotta carry da shizzle???

Note: I'm a vegetarian + fish-eater I think instant oatmeal has essentially zero value as fuel. I still take it on short winter trips because it is quick, warm, and easy, but I always have an energy crash about one hour later. If you can find them, instant grits are the SHIZNIT for breakfast. Make sure the ones you get are INSTANT because real grits take a lot of boiling time. Add butter and hot sauce (Franks is my favorite)! Any kind of pasta+cheese combo are great for dinner. Add foil-packaged tuna or smoked salmon for protein and gustatory delight! Put butter and cheese in everything. Miso soup is good. Chai tea is good. Lots of hot liquids are good good good. For lunches, bagels+cheese, powerbars or equivalent, etc. Deserts (DON'T OVERLOOK DESERT!) Instant pudding is good. Add powdered milk, water, stir, mmmmm... Candy (I really liked fruit-flavored Mentos when I was in AK for some reason???) Bring an assortment Buy a food dehydrator and you can make some really tasty+cheap stuff. Dehydrating a bunch of veggies (onions, peppers, etc) weighs nothing and adding them to pasta+cheese dishes makes things more interesting. Try things out at home before you go. NOLS says 2lbs total food/person/day which is generous. Gatorade powder Plain water gets old and you want to drink as much as possible. Sugar, electrolytes and yellow #5 will make this sometimes onerous task more pleasant. Do NOT take instant TVP chili, maybe just avoid TVP altogether :stinkyfartinggremlin:

"Return to the Womb" (10b) "Follow bolts up to a large hueco, where crawling inside it(!) provides a rest before the final steep section". We didn't get on that one - next time!

If they promise not to use a parachute that would be a good deal!

OK OK OK... You're right. It was a reasonable question. It does seem like lots of people don't use the Search function to its full potential though... Back on topic, I agree with Gene that the ice routes on Chair are probably gone for the year, but I haven't been up there in a couple of weeks. Anyone have any recent first hand beta for Mr. ClimberExtremeoMtDude?

Hey Mr.E, Is that Patch? I've never seen a real pic of him.

Minx, I'd say you should be able to climb the TumButt (hehehe) route with a very small rack, but keep in mind that it is a new route with quite a bit of lichen on it. The route does not follow a continuous crack system, so there might not always be a gear placement exactly when you want it, but it is low angle and has lots of steps. Take home message: It's easy climbing on licheny rock with sparse, but adequate (my opinion) protection. I led the second pitch and I placed two pieces of gear in 30m. I wasn't really looking to place more though... The best way to find the route is go to the gas station when you first come into leavenworth. Do a U-turn and go back west on Hwy2. Drive maybe an eighth to a quarter of a mile until you see a small pullout on the right side of the hwy that is big enough for two or three cars right at the base of the buttress. Park and hike up some talus (there is a trail) for a couple hundred vertical feet to an obviously stomped out belay platform. Rope up and scamper straight up the crest of the buttress. Routefinding is pretty straightforward (pretty much straight up the crest of the buttress), but right above the first anchor you want to go straight through the little roof thing. It's not really a "roof", but I don't know how else to describe it. This protects well with a small cam (I think I used a BD 0.5) and is easier than it looks. Maybe this route is in the new guidebook??? I don't know, I only have the old one. MisterE, Good to see you out there. You sure styled the wideness on "Meat Grinder"! I'm looking forward to our outing this weekend and will be free/ready to leave Seattle this evening!

On Tuesday we climbed at Alphabet Rock. The 10a face climb just right of Dogleg Crack (also good) is really nice with one delicate stemming/high reach move. The Z-crack is a brilliant climb though it was a little wet and sandy in the horizontal crack making up the top of the "Z". The arete climb on the far left of the crag called "Jaws of Life" has some wow-golly-gee-fun arete slapping on slightly overhanging terrain, but that isn't the crux! Oh no. The crux is the less-than-vertical blankness topping out above the arete. I couldn't figure it out. Good thing the esteemed Mr. Peru is back in fine ropegun form. We decided to finish off the climbing day with a romp up Tumwater Buttress. This is an easy (probably 5.5ish?) three-pitch route up the licheny, but otherwise pretty clean and solid buttress. It is in a very aesthetic spot; right above some largish rapids in the Wenatchee which drown out the highway noise nicely. BP and James on the route: With more traffic, this route will clean up nicely. It might take some patience to find gear placements, but the whole route is low angle and there are plenty of nice hands-free stances, so it might be a good beginner climb. The pitches are a FULL 30m, and you may even have to stretch the rope a bit on the first rappel. Anchors are 1/2-inch bolts with chains. Enjoy! James and his housemate Brian put us up for the night and we feasted , drank , , and listened to lots of . Thanks guys! On Wednesday BP and I headed to Trundle Dome. Lots of nice routes up there! We climbed Sonic Boom, Flake Fest, Hundred Dollar Dash, and April Mayhem - all fully deserving their two stars. Here is a picture of BP atop the aptly named, "piller de cowboy boot": After Trundle Dome we sat down by the river and had some lunch and chilled out a bit. Nice scenery: Overall it was a great couple of days climbing and I'm looking forward to getting out there again soon. Hopefully by that time my partner will have some new shoes:

Let's get down to brass tacks people - the important question here is do you put your belay biner through your belay loop or through both bands of your harness?

I searched for "Chair" in "Alpine Lakes" forum Last 3 years (beta from past seasons is valuable too) and selected "Show main post" only I got lots of results back, including this one which is probably the most relevant in this case: Heiny's TR 3/13/04 Do I have to do everything around here!?!?

Nifty feature of the website

Did someone say "highball"??? Ingredients: Whiskey and Ginger Ale. Directions: Mix in a tall glass with ice.