pindude

quote: Originally posted by ehmmic: ...I think this is one of my favorite photos and because Marmot used a portion of it for all their hang tags a couple years ago, many others have seen it too. Spectre of the Brocken, Gokyo Ri, Nepal http://www.mountainlight.com/gallery.nepal/aa970pic.html Back on topic...this photo very appropos. Thanks ehmmic, for linking to this one.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: I seem to recall reading a biographical sketch of Beckey which related that in about 1974, Beckey and Rowell were heading for a unclimbed line in the Sierras. Beckey got bad vibes and decided he wanted to turn around. Rowell insisted everything was gonna be Ok and refused to turn around and descend with Fred - instead, he went on to solo the line. Fred was allegedy pissed off by this to the point he never climbed with Rowell again after this! Anybody know if this story is true or not? Don't know about this story specifically, but I heard another one where Fred lost out on an FA he had the chance for (and likely was his idea in the first place), and he got royally pissed off! Can't remember the details, but quite a few years ago he went in to bag a new route somewhere here in the greater PNW, and he was to meet a couple Spokane climbers. On the day they were to meet in the backcountry, he didn't show, so the Spokane boys went and climbed the route anyway. When they arrived back at their basecamp-- and original meeting point--after the ascent, Fred was finally there, and asked straight away if they climbed the route. They told him they had, but Fred had to have known it was his fault. It turned out he had gotten on the wrong trail on the way in...while the Spokane boys were climbing, theycould hear down-valley the characteristic pinging of Fred's coupla pitons binered to his pack, but it was too late for them to do anything about it. [ 08-14-2002, 12:43 AM: Message edited by: pindude ]

quote: Originally posted by Big Wave Dave: If it's of any interest, Rowell did mention one of his favorite photos, or at least favorite portraits, that of Jim Bridwell on the February 1972 (1st winter) ascent of Keeler Needle. Bridwell is shown gnarling at the camera, hanging by goldline and all decked out in pitons and scratchy clothing. Classic portrait which apparently captured Rowells vision at the moment. Big Wave, Thanks for letting us know. I think you meant the honorable Batso, on that Keeler's winter ascent... "Warren Harding on Keeler's Needle" quote: Originally posted by Big Wave Dave: Another one of his favorites was of Leif Patterson reveling in the return to greenery after the 1975 K2 fiasco. "Celebrating return to green grass" Sorry for posting all the pics, but I can't help it...he has SO many. For more, check out Mountain Light, but 2 of my favorites: "High winds on Anye Machin" And maybe THE photo seen by the most people in the world? "Rainbow over Potala Palace, Lhasa" [ 08-13-2002, 01:35 AM: Message edited by: pindude ]

Thanks for the reco for Revivex. I've used the wash-in Nikwax and, before that, Tectron Spray, even used both together, and have been pretty unimpressed--water never did bead off the outer fabric such as it did when garments were new. We'll see what Revivex will do, but my current philosophy is to hold off on washing my DWR-treated garments until it's absolutely necessary, and then only spot treat it. I think putting a garment thru the wash actually takes out much of the DWR, much like washing a rope in a washing machine causes the rope to lose its water-repellancy (although it will remove the dirt, too). I'm not sure ANY revive-type treatment can replace the original DWR treatment on the outer fabric of waterproof/breathable clothing such as is made with Gore-tex. Got a 3-year-old Mtn Hardwear G-tex jacket I still haven't had to run thru the washer yet, but I'll try the Revivex on some other, older stuff that I've already treated unsuccessfully with Nikwax. Cheers, pindude

Although the audio report posted by Iain was pretty detailed, I searched a couple times through the day for a printed article; finally found one here at the SF Chronicle. Condolences to all touched by this. May the Rowell's Mountain Light live on.

quote: Originally posted by Figger Eight: quote:Support Malden Mills: Buy Polartec and Regulator fleece! From your local specialty store! Damn straight. Thanks, Figger!

Thanks Big Wave, for sharing the story. What a shock. I had never met Galen or Barbara personally, but was looking forward to seeing at least him in the future in our area for an outdoor- or photography-related lecture or workshop. Considered by many to be the best outdoor photographer in the world, he was also an original Yose hardman, put up many new routes, advanced clean climbing (one of the first to not use pins on hard Valley aid routes), did an incredible number of world-wide expeditions, and communicated to others the issues and problems of culture and environment from wherever he and Barbara traveled. Together, they were a great team.

Go, Omega Man. Yeah, he was the same dude who helped us clean up Minnehaha Rocks in Spokane. Since we sandblasted a ton of graffiti off most of our climbing rocks in May, we've yet to have one new incidence of spray-paint. Now, it's just paintballers shooting at our new reader board and making a mess of the landscaped area right out of the parking lot. Maybe Omega Man can jump on and clean up these idiot paint-ballers, like he took care of Buddy Dean and Moose. --pindude [ 08-12-2002, 02:49 PM: Message edited by: pindude ]

Yes, Aaron Feuerstein is a great man for what he did: rebuilding the company in its same location in Lawrence, MA . This 60 Minutes segment originally aired in March, as a juxtaposition to the Enron debacle. Malden Mills continues to produce what is likely the best-quality synthetic fleece in the world, including brand names such as Polartec and the new Regulator, used by our outdoor tech clothing makers such as Mountain Hardwear, Marmot, Arc'Teryx, Patagonia, many others. Yes, they are in Ch. 11, and while the exact future of the company is in doubt, it is thought by many they will survive. Haven't heard the current status of their Ch. 11 filing, but further news is at this Outdoor Retailer site. Support Malden Mills: Buy Polartec and Regulator fleece!

Certainly not one of the dumbest things I've done, but one of the fun things about urban cragging--when gaping away at you are friends, neophytes, gomers, and the general non-climbing public--is to make up new belaying signals... quote: Originally posted by forrest_m in the "The Stupidest Thing You've Ever Heard Climbing" thread: A friend of mine was walking by one of the lower crags at exit 38 and saw two very young guys working a route. The guy on the ground was useing a gri-gri, of course. About the third bolt, he gets a worried expression on his face and yells up to his partner "Are you in a good place?" "Why?" replied the climber with sudden panic. A pause. "Dooood. You're the hand." (for anyone not familiar, the gri-gri has some of those cute petzl icons on the side to show you which direction to feed the rope through. One is a climber, the other a hand) While cragging today, our belay signals included "I'm the hand" and "You're the climber." quote: From the new Climbing mag's Overheard: "Coming, coming!"--a sketched out and shaky new leader a couple of feet above his bolt at Smith Rock. And when ready to be lowered from the anchors by the right partner, and in honor of the above, one of our climbers today yelled, "I'm coming I'm coming!" This one did turn heads. --pindude

Describe it and its yours. Hopefully I will be able to respond right away, my PC here has gone down 2x in the past 5 weeks... --pindude

I started this thread, so feel the responsibility to continue to pass on appropriate info. Memorial service for Bill on July 23, Tuesday in Richland, as sent to FCCC this a.m. by Paul Certa, Bill's climbing partner: quote: Bill's parents will be holding a simple service in Utah. No formal memorial services are planned for Richland, WA. However, there are plans for on informal remembrance gathering in Richland on Tuesday, July 23rd; his parents plan to attend. Please contact me directly for more information, preferably by email. Since I have not communicated with Paul, I am reluctant to post his personal contact info he provided at the end of the above msg to the FCCC, but you are welcome to e-mail me and I will pass it on ASAP. --Steve Reynolds, Spokane

For those wanting more detail, I received further info in a message sent this morning to FCCC members from Paul Certa, Bill's long-time partner: quote: I learned of Bill's death from his parents on Tuesday. I just received confirmation of some of the facts and circumstances surrounding his death from the American Embassy in La Paz. Bill Robins died on Sunday, July 7th, 2002 in Bolivia on the Cerro Condoriri. The American Embassy in La Paz learned of Bill's death on July 9th through a phone call from their security patrol. The security patrol received a call on July 8th from the head of Adventure Company Climbing. She informed the Embassy that Bill and his climbing partner, Gabriel Llanos, were killed in a climbing accident on Sunday morning, July 7th. A rescue team recovered Bill and Gabriel and brought them both to La Paz. According to the forensic doctor at the Hospital del Torax in La Paz, the cause of death was trauma and hypothermia due to a 200 meter fall. From looking at Bolivian news reports, I believe that the cause of the accident was an avalanche. I will post an update if I learn of more details. Bill's parents will be holding a simple graveside service in Utah as soon as arrangements can be made (possibly next week). No formal memorial services are planned for Richland, WA. However, his parents will be visiting soon and there may be an informal gathering at that time. My condolences to Bill's friends and family. Controversial, yes, but a big influence on NW climbing, and he will be missed. --Steve Reynolds, Spokane

Another tragedy in NW Climbing. The following post I received this morning through the FCCC (Frenchman Coulee Climbers Coalition) e-mail list: quote: Subject: Bill Robins: RIP I'm very sorry to report that Bill Robins was killed in a climbing accident in Bolivia. I don't have any further details at this time. My condolences to friends and family. Brian in SLC

Trask, Don't know about a plastic surgeon with this specialty...but I am sure there's a crazy polish massage therapist who would be glad to help. He's probably had lots of practice on horsecock. Good luck! --pindude

Thanks, Jedi, for the answer. Annie started the base camp gig around '93-'94. Interestingly, her job immediately before that was as an airline stewardess--she went directly from being a jet-setter with almost all the amenities, to living in the dirty snow with smelly climbers! She was a lot of fun to talk to, and I bet she broke a few hearts, too. quote: Originally posted by Jarred Jackman: This is so funny, does anybody else think this jobe individual sounds like a total lame-ass. Careful, Jarred. If you read back through the thread, Jobe came around after he himself read through the replies of others. So, no, he's not a "total lame-ass," but you could be (I doubt if you are either) by not READING and THINKING before you WRITE! Please don't remind me of crazypolishbobbinghead. --Steve

Glad to see the main thread here came to a resolution. Jobe posted that he has come around, so no need to keep floggin' him with horsecock or whatever. To digress a bit... quote: Originally posted by MtnHigh: I just returned from the Alaska Range/Talkeetna and experienced similar delays with the air taxi service we used...When flying back to Talkeetna coordinate with Lisa or whoever the base camp manager is at the time... MtnHigh, or others who might know, I thought sweet little Base Camp Annie was the main base camp manager? She used to be the ONLY one all climbing-season long, beginning about 8 years ago. I've gotten a little out of touch with what is going on up there, but was wondering if Lisa is now her replacement, or if there is some sort of new rotation deal for base camp managers that the air taxi services set up. Hmmm... --pindude

Shin bash and shin chafing? I recall this as a problem since the first plastic boots came out, with Koflach and Asolo. I didn't realize this problem existed so much with Invernos as experienced by Payaso, Jedi, and mentioned by Iain. I've got a wide foot, and still have not found for me a better or more comfortable-fitting plastic boot than my Invernos, which I regularly use for Glacier Peak-type approaches in late summer (I don't always approach alpine in plastics). The trick for me is that the inner plastic boot fit my foot snugly such that if there is movement in my boot, it's the inner liner moving against the outer plastic shell. I carefully try to have just the right thickness of socks: when I first bought the boots I used one thinner pair, now that the foam liner is getting packed out I have to wear a liner sock and at least a medium-thick outer pair. I'm lucky that my feet don't sweat inordinately. Back to shin-bash. My wife, who is also a figure skater, taught me how to tie my boots (yes, better than my mom did), somewhat along the lines of what Eric is saying. Between each set of hooks, cross the laces over each other making an "x" at mid-tongue (at least 1x between each pair of hooks, and then 2x in the critical spot where the boot goes up from the flatter instep to the more vertical ankle--hope you can follow me). This bit of friction helps hold the laces more snug. As I'm tying the laces moving up--above the critical point I mention where at least your last 2 sets of hooks/eyelets are--I tie the laces more loosely so the top of the boot has more room to flex for the shin. And on approaches with the similar Scarpa plastic tele boots, I'll avoid buckling at all the upper ankle of the boot. I've hiked in on miles of dry trail in my T-Races without problems. I dunno, maybe Scarpas were made for my feet. Also, another trick when bringing your laces around each hook is to bring the lace around the top, first, then wrap it down around the hook--I've even seen some people cinch the lace around the hook and back under the lace before they bring it back over toward the middle of the tongue. Essentially, I try to keep the laces tight and snug below that critical point to keep the heel from sliding up, and then I tie around the upper eyes more loosely to maximize the amount of flex around the upper ankle and avoid shin bash. If shin bash is a serious problem, the "X-pattern" can also be done to some extent between eyelets of your inner boot, but you have to prelace this and it's a bit of a hassle. I've witnessed, and even helped some of, a few hundred mountaineering students over the past few years--shin bash is a problem that seems to affect at least 10% of our classes, and women generally more than men. The down side of shin-bash is that once your shin bones are bruised, it often takes a whole season before you can recover from it. This lacing set-up, however, seems to alleviate much of it, but like others have said, number one, fit is the key. Good thread, enough words from me. I especially liked the suggestion of nylon knee-highs, makes sense, but why not go all the way and get full-length panty hose? Somebody needs to try it and write a TR... Here's to happy feet , pindude

Matt, Thanks for the TR. Too bad you didn't discover more of the good routes, including vertical stuff from 5.8-5.11--it is still best to go there first time with someone who knows the area. Yes, the north side of Highway Rock doesn't have any walls...reason why I tried to direct you around the south side, from east to west. The rock is indeed granite, but like I said originally, it is not as sound as what you find in L-worth and Index. Of the 3 climbs you were on, I cannot remember their actual names. FYI for others reading here, I recall there's only one instance where 2 bolts are as close as 3' apart. One of those climbs on the west side and to the north indeed has a newer bolt 3' from an original bolt, placed by the FA'ist in the name of safety to keep a falling climber above a projection (knowing this you might be able to tell now when you look at it) just before you top out on that climb. I'm not trying to defend bolting 3' apart, I'm just saying what is. Around that side I don't recall any 15-20' runouts above ledges (could this be some of the chopping you mention?), unless it was fairly easy going or there was possibly natural pro to be placed. Hopefully when you checked out Gibralter Rock you looked east across little Northrup Canyon and also ran up to the base of Picnic Table Rock--many good routes there including Dr. Ceuse and others around the chimney. Putting up FA's around Banks, on face or crack, takes quite a bit of work and cleaning. Those routes on the north end of the west side have already had many man-hours of clean-up. Traffic will take care of much of the little loose stuff (one reason why I said take a brush), including the detritus leftover after wintertime, but again, like I said earlier, much of the granite at Banks Lake will always be suspect. Just as well, as this will keep some of the riff raff away. Don't know exactly what you mean about careless placement and shoddy chop jobs, including empty bolt holes on that side; maybe I'll find out this weekend as I'm headed out there for the first time since last year. Cheers, Steve

Mike, Too bad there's not more "loose cannons" like you. Thanks for all you do. May things quiet down for you and you get some days off! Cheers, Steve

quote: Originally posted by David Parker: They need to get the Libery Ridge out of "50 Classic Climbs". Too many yahoos totally underestimate that climb. Well-accomplished climber buddy of mine--definitely not a yahoo--was on Lib Ridge about 10 years ago, and took an egg-sized rock to his Petzl Ecrin (first-generation) helmet. He is normally very attentive and aware. The rock was totally unheard, and unseen, until it nailed him. Sent him right to his knees, and he was glad he didn't fall (he wouldn't have gone anywhere, he was roped to competent partners). The rock broke through the plastic, and lodged right into the top of the helmet, having not quite gone halfway. Made for a great souvenir, along with the retired helmet. He was glad it stopped short of his skull. He might have been his own patient in the Brain Injury Rehab Institute he ran at the time in Spokane. --pindude

quote: Originally posted by Coondog: Guy at Index was telling us about some 'Third Pillar?' full day 5.9 arete just outside the park that's outstanding that I wish I hadn't completely blanked the name of... Third Pillar of Dana Yeah, I guess this could be called an "ultra-classic." --Steve

quote: Originally posted by pindude: Perhaps if you didn't hide behind an avatar, you wouldn't be so vehement. I may have wasted my time responding to you, in hopes you might see the light. What'll it be, dude, more ranting and name-calling, or honor and intelligence? crazypolishilliterate, There went down the toilet a chance for you to help restore, for some of us, our faith in humanity. Obviously, the answer is the former. Keep your crazy thoughts and yourself on your shitter in Houston with your muscle buddies, it's where you belong. You're not welcome in our mountains. However, you do provide good entertainment on this board, albeit in the form of thread creep. My apologies, Greg, for contributing to the wayward ramblings of a madman. May you get the best of care, and be back climbing hard soon. --Steve

crazypolishbob: "hey pinhead, do you actually know what you are talking about or you just shoot your mouth off and in major dumb way? so let me ask you this- you say fuck chiropractor or fuck the massage therapist. what is your opinion based on- medical facts of the conditon. are you giving dx here?" You're a real laugh, crazy, your credibility can be summed up in your name. And you've already proven yourself with some of your previous posts. Can you actually read? I said "fuck the chiropracter advice," especially for a knee. Do I need to spell out why to you? And yes, I do have a bias: MD's are generally much more capable than chiropracters, especially when it comes to orthopedists caring for knees...while I do realize there are many great and capable chiropracters out there, who provide appropriate care. I certainly did NOT say fuck the massage therapist...what I said was that a MT was NOT appropriate, especially to seek out an opinion first before that of an MD, as Michael Layton advised. So don't take this all so personally. Sheesh! I have nothing against MTs (except YOU now), nor indicated such in my original post. Your reading ability and judgment are obviously clouded by something. I have many friends who are licensed MT's, and I have received great MT care myself, including for Tx. "what is your opinion based on- medical facts of the conditon. are you giving dx here?" You say you're a health practitioner, and I hope you can read. Do you think I gave a Dx? For your sake, I hope not. What I did do was give general advice re. use of our health-care system. To put the shoe on the other foot, are you saying you yourself should be seeing Greg for his Dx?...I don't think so. "i work as a massage therapist and let me tell you something- just saw a new patient today reffered by an MD (a suregeon) for a tx on a knee. So what do you say to that?" Good for you dude (and no, I won't sink down to your level and start calling you derogatory names without cause in reality), I'm glad for you, really. Yes, MD's send patients to MT's for Tx, although it is not as common as sending them to PT's. "simple case of inflamation in it band." Huh? Put it in understandable English, dude. "you are so full of crap that it's not even worth my time to dwell on your misinformed and ill logic. get you facts straight." Whoa, dude, you're going further out there... Whose facts aren't straight? You obviously did spend time to dwell on it, but certainly not enough TO READ AND UNDERSTAND IT CLEARLY! "surgery is the last resort, try some other things first. get a proper diagnosis, get a second opinion even third." Waddayaknow? I somewhat agree, although I doubt Greg's insurance will pay for 3 opinions. "hey poser- if you don't work in a medical field- shut up. if you do work, your advice was down right un- ethical." I worked in the medical field as an office manager for a very successful private MD practice, and worked in hospital administration, but chose to leave it for better opportunities. I am still involved in the health industry on several levels. Okay...exactly how was it unethical, Mr. logical crazypolishbob? Judging by your rant here, dude, you are the LAST Massage Therapist I would see. I certainly would never climb with you. Did you have a bad day? Please re-read the WHOLE thread and my message--slowly, carefully, AND sober. You shot yourself in the foot, or worse. Perhaps if you didn't hide behind an avatar, you wouldn't be so vehement. I may have wasted my time responding to you, in hopes you might see the light. What'll it be, dude, more ranting and name-calling, or honor and intelligence? --Steve in Spokane

Damn! I think you're really on to something, Dru. Contrary to aggressive and sal, sounds to me like this could become a real juggernaut...I can think of all kinds of doctoral theses and continuing studies, grants and monies provided for such, further fund-raising for new specialized enviro sub-groups ("Save the Iceworms!", iceworm rights activists, iceworm eco-terrorists), PAC groups, etc., leading to influence of new legislation and...the SAVING of our glaciers! I wanna continue to climb on alpine and glacier ice until I'm too old to swing my tools! And I want my children to, too! Go for it Dru, we're behind ya!