Gary_Yngve

biked from my apartment to montlake with huge pack, only to find that i just missed the bus across the lake, and hence my ride i only need a ride to leavenworth; i can figure out a way to get back if you can help me out with a ride (i'll pay for beer/gas), call me at 206-543-5143 thanks, gary

Tom Lewis has some photos up on the Mountaineers forum. Don't know if we have any photos from yesterday. It was raining, and the digicam wasn't very happy.

What does the filename for those pictures end in? If it's "tif" or "bmp", then the problem is that the images are not being compressed. With a high-quality "jpg" encoding, the sizes of the files are reduced by up to 90%, but the image quality is nearly equivalent.

A grad student complained last night that the building was too cold and it caused him to get sick. I struggled, but finally succeeded, in resisting the temptation to write back, "Yo dumbass, shut the fuck up and wear a goddamn sweater!"

You are becoming wise! Give up the way of the bolt!

Helping out at the Mountaineers' Crack Climbing Seminar at Tieton.

I heard that it's somewhere in the Nuits and they heli-ed in, but that's second-hand info I heard from one of Colin's classmates.

I think it would be really cool to build a multidimensional database of [landscape] photos. Each photo is indexed by its location and orientation [and zoom] and time. Vision algorithms could solve for location/orientation given terrain data. Then someone could query the database, asking, what does NW Face of Mt. X look like at this time of the year? Or, what does the view of Mt. Y look like from Mt. Z? All sorts of machine learning possibilities exist for extrapolating data for where pictures don't exist. Of course, I don't have time to work on this.

What's a harbour?

Not sure where the Columbias are, but this webpage is nice: http://wlapwww.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/recreation/campfire_bans.htm#campfire_bans

http://www.cs.washington.edu/homes/gyngve/bouncing_bear.mpeg

I won a t-shirt!

Ah, that makes sense now... We belayed up to the large ledge and walked around it to belay again... we climbed through your belay on our second pitch:

Where on the corner is this? We did it as three pitches, with the zig-zag flakes as the second pitch. It must be from somewhere on the first pitch? I have absolutely no recollection of it...

Does anyone know any secret tricks for managing ropes better for the low angle slab rappels at the top with bushy crap in the way? We coiled up each rope and tossed them (more like tried to toss them) in separate directions to keep them from getting tangled together. However, given that we could only toss them about thirty feet, the ropes would eventually get tangled up in themselves or a bush or something... Maybe feeding one of the ropes out of a pack would be better? As soon as we got to Westward Ho, things became infinitely better -- the ropes would slide down the slabs because they wouldn't get caught on any crap.

How about suing former US Presidents for their lame foreign policy?

Ah, I'll have to try that way some other time. Going left does have a finger traverse (steeper but shorter) followed by a mantle to a lieback/jam crack up a ramp... around the corner to the tree belay... pretty fun. We swung leads so I followed the second pitch, but I remember it was fun in boots; I found a lot of toe-heel jams that would have been more awkward in rock shoes.

Good job, Dryad! Haha, a silly picture of me from last year: http://www.cs.washington.edu/homes/gyngve/gary-past-hand-traverse.jpg Note: roughly the same pro placements the pack the boots the gaiters (there was a lot of snow in early July) However, no polypro under my shorts, so I guess I fail.

I do believe at least one of the plaques was from the WAC.

The rap route you described is from the terrace. How do you get there from the summit? I guess we could have rapped the route that we came up to the summit., and then rapped your way. It certainly sounds nicer. But although I would enjoy doing W Butt to the Terrace again, I'm not in the mood yet to do the summit again. Yeah, she's picking up this stuff amazingly fast. I took her to Index two weeks ago and had her lead a bunch of stuff from 5.6-5.8, and based on that, i felt she was ready for this. She's lead sport for many years and has the engineer's mindset for pro placing, but I'm still impressed how quickly she has picked it up. She even scored a booty orange alien last weekend in Tahquitz!

I couldn't commit to any advance mtn plans this weekend given my workload, etc., but luckily a friend of mine who had started leading trad a few weeks ago was looking for a trip. We soloed up the first two pitches, and then she led the crux pitch, placing gear instead of clipping the bolts. I took the next pitch, belaying at a tree with a few feet of simul-climbing. She took the final pitch to the terraces. From there, we traversed left on the ledges, a little down, and around a corner where we started up for the summit. I took the first pitch out a full ropelength, only to be forty feet above my last piece and out of rope... downclimbed some and built a mediocre anchor with some pieces in a small crack and behind a questionable block. WIth a good stance, I belayed her up, and about sixty feet below me, she was able to traverse to a tree to set up a happier anchor. I then led up from there for a full ropelength, placing only one other piece... a pink tricam in a shallow slot. Pro certainly is crappy up there. A short bushwhack uphill took us to the summit. Descent was a real hassle... couldn't toss ropes far on the upper rappels, and they had a knack for getting tangled in themselves or nearby brush. Did a double rope rap off a tree and ended up, out of rope, about 20 feet above the Westward Ho anchors... grrr... another few silly antics on the way down and we were back at the packs. Walk down sidewalk was uneventful -- we wore our rockshoes, given the poorer traction with our old sneakers that we used going up.

The dude fell after being stuck in the cave for two days. http://www.nps.gov/grte/news/2003/03-55.pdf

Is it smoky up in Darrington now?

Are there any parts of the Cascades that are smoke-free? My parents are coming into town in a couple days, and I want to take them somewhere... thinking about besieging S Ridge of Ingalls. It's especially important that I find a smoke-free place; otherwise my Jewish mom will complain incessantly and make me feel guilty for making her nose act up.