Gary_Yngve

It's certainly good timing to have the window start on Sunday. That way we [democrats] can all stay home and go to the caucus on Saturday.

I'm working with Will Gadd to get him to do a show in April. We identified a time that will work, and Tues morning a week ago, I went over to reserve the auditorium. I emailed them yesterday asking the status of my reservation, and I was told, "Well, it doesn't look like anyone else has the auditorium reserved, but it will still take a few more days to process your reservation." WHAT THE FUCK??? How long should it take to process a fucking reservation? I don't like sending an email to Will that says, "Hey, we reserved the room, but these fucknuts won't confirm the reservation for another two weeks." Also, based on my experience with the previous two shows, we will: 1) try to make tickets cheaper for non-UW folks 2) have it at a more friendly time (7:00 PM)

I listen to classical on a regular basis. Not a problem for me. Though I do have a special appreciation for modern composers such as Britten, Copland, etc.

I should add that I've never tried the smaller DMMs -- I've used Aliens and TCUs in those sizes. You'll find that the weight differences are negligible for the smaller sizes, and the Aliens and TCUs have narrower head profiles. (The Aliens and TCUs also have "teeth" on the cam lobes, where as the DMM 3CUs don't, though it probably doesn't make much of a difference?)

I really like the DMM hand-size pieces (say 1.75-3.5). The 4 is nice too, though it is narrower than an equivalently sized friend or Camelot, which seems to make it want to walk more in a flaring placement. But I think any large piece will walk in a flaring placement. I have a Primus Alpine stove. It's around $30. Good, though doesn't have as stable a platform for a pot as a heavier [or titanium] stove.

For Sloan's Corkscrew Route, I think the approach from Bedal Creek is better, mainly because you don't have to do that river crossing.

Dru - I second that on the hockey game. So much intensity! We were at Mile -0 as well. We wandered around Marble Canyon, Honeyman, and the Rambles and didn't find snowshoes necessary. Though we did repeatedly fall on our asses from the frozen dirt or icy rocks covered by two feet of powder. In general, things seemed pretty fat, though wet. Seems like the ice warmed up, and then all the snow fell, insulating the ice? We're pretty conservative (and I'm a newbie), so we weren't that comfortable with the protection available on the rotten ice. Man, was everything wet! Frozen ropes, gloves, biners, slings... And cold enough for that lovely sticking feeling when you'd touch metal... And thanks to the guys who gave our dumb asses a quick tow!

Sweet! How did you descend? I imagine most of the rap anchors on the north face are buried beneath the snow, and the lower part of the north face where you traverse back over to Prusik Pass seems like the right angle for avalanches.

Got some freshies Sunday at Rainier! We're a bunch of avalanche gumbies so we stopped going up just short of the steep hill going up to Pan Point, but it was still a fun ski down!

Here's a movie of me getting my ass whooped by a bunch of 12-year-olds: http://www.cs.washington.edu/homes/gyngve/MVI_1252.AVI

I picked them up from Metro on Broadway.

He must have learned that trick in the military.

The story about the Sues who knew each other since kindergarten was really cute. I was hoping the one who wanted to take the underpriveleged kids rafting through the Grand Canyon would win.

fuck you

If you attended the event and would like a subscription to Outside Magazine, send me (PM or email climb@u) your name and snail-mail address.

Hey, you thread hijackers, find something better to do with your time, like shoving a splintered broomstick up your ass. Keep your shit on spray.

Thanks to everyone who came! I saw a lot of familiar faces. The Climbing Club appreciates your support! I think everyone had a good time... great food, cocktails, desserts... like a free swanky Pub Club!

Here's the other thing about a picket... the goal is large surface area. So all you could do is use the strength of titanium to make the picket less thick. That's a reduction of mass in only one dimension. On the other hand, a rod or a beam can be reduced in two dimensions -- the only important part is to retain the length. So, because of the purpose of a picket, significant weight reductions cannot be acheived without sacrificing functionality (surface area).

Probably too damn expensive. A picket has a lot of metal. I'd guess a Ti picket would be at least $100?

I want GWB to pass a constitutional amendment prohibiting Britney Spears from getting married for a day.

The missing person is probably dead by now. Too bad he was stupid enough to go out alone and without sufficient equipment.

Beware that the higher the zoom that you use, the more important it is that you keep the camera still (i.e. use a tripod). In anything other than sunny daylight conditions, the 5x zoom may not be usable without a tripod.

You're right.

The recent Canons are a lot better wrt latency. You can also press the shutter halfway to do lighting/focus ahead of time. But you simply can't beat an SLR camera when it comes to quick response.