Gary_Yngve

What about the porn movie, "Weapons of Ass Destruction?"

In defense of the the sacrament of marriage, Britney Spears shall be banned from marrying for a day.

"Whenever I'm feeling depressed, I go out to Vantage where I laugh at the sportos stick-clipping their way up 5.11 bolted routes while I prove my toughness by climbing 5.7 trad in boots."

The ice on the NE Butt of Chair on Sunday was amazing. Super plasticy. Exery swing was a solid stick.

My god, the snow we encountered after doing Chair was the cruddiest crappiest snow I've ever encountered. Plus the slope was littered with avy debris. I finally decided to take my sticks off and walk down to Source Lake.

A whole gaggle of us were on the NE Butt of Chair on Sun. Some dudes did the E Face of Chair earlier in the morn. Don't know much about folks doing the N Face... we were planning on doing it originally but didn't feel comfortable with the avy danger (on the traverse to the N Face, the top few inches were shearing off readily). Clearest day I've seen in a long time. Could see the Seattle skyline from the top of Chair.

Do not climb face routes. Cracks and stemming are nice there. Duck duck duck duck goose.

The extra expansion looks like it will work well in a parallel crack, but what about flaring or pod placements?

We're not yet through with this. The bill just went through Senate committee. I guess it would still have to be passed by the Senate, massaged with the House bill (the Ohio motherfucker is in the House), and signed into law by Bush.

http://www.aznofee.org/aznofee/news.php Good job, folks!

Close Calls by John Long is great. One of the stories even occurred locally on Eldorado Peak.

I got a virus once. I got an email from a friend, saying, "Check this out! It's really cooL!" She's a graphics grad student at Caltech, so it seemed reasonable. I saved the attachment in pine (in UNIX), downloaded it to my windows laptop, and ran it. OOPS

It's certainly good timing to have the window start on Sunday. That way we [democrats] can all stay home and go to the caucus on Saturday.

I'm working with Will Gadd to get him to do a show in April. We identified a time that will work, and Tues morning a week ago, I went over to reserve the auditorium. I emailed them yesterday asking the status of my reservation, and I was told, "Well, it doesn't look like anyone else has the auditorium reserved, but it will still take a few more days to process your reservation." WHAT THE FUCK??? How long should it take to process a fucking reservation? I don't like sending an email to Will that says, "Hey, we reserved the room, but these fucknuts won't confirm the reservation for another two weeks." Also, based on my experience with the previous two shows, we will: 1) try to make tickets cheaper for non-UW folks 2) have it at a more friendly time (7:00 PM)

I listen to classical on a regular basis. Not a problem for me. Though I do have a special appreciation for modern composers such as Britten, Copland, etc.

I should add that I've never tried the smaller DMMs -- I've used Aliens and TCUs in those sizes. You'll find that the weight differences are negligible for the smaller sizes, and the Aliens and TCUs have narrower head profiles. (The Aliens and TCUs also have "teeth" on the cam lobes, where as the DMM 3CUs don't, though it probably doesn't make much of a difference?)

I really like the DMM hand-size pieces (say 1.75-3.5). The 4 is nice too, though it is narrower than an equivalently sized friend or Camelot, which seems to make it want to walk more in a flaring placement. But I think any large piece will walk in a flaring placement. I have a Primus Alpine stove. It's around $30. Good, though doesn't have as stable a platform for a pot as a heavier [or titanium] stove.

For Sloan's Corkscrew Route, I think the approach from Bedal Creek is better, mainly because you don't have to do that river crossing.

Dru - I second that on the hockey game. So much intensity! We were at Mile -0 as well. We wandered around Marble Canyon, Honeyman, and the Rambles and didn't find snowshoes necessary. Though we did repeatedly fall on our asses from the frozen dirt or icy rocks covered by two feet of powder. In general, things seemed pretty fat, though wet. Seems like the ice warmed up, and then all the snow fell, insulating the ice? We're pretty conservative (and I'm a newbie), so we weren't that comfortable with the protection available on the rotten ice. Man, was everything wet! Frozen ropes, gloves, biners, slings... And cold enough for that lovely sticking feeling when you'd touch metal... And thanks to the guys who gave our dumb asses a quick tow!

Sweet! How did you descend? I imagine most of the rap anchors on the north face are buried beneath the snow, and the lower part of the north face where you traverse back over to Prusik Pass seems like the right angle for avalanches.

Got some freshies Sunday at Rainier! We're a bunch of avalanche gumbies so we stopped going up just short of the steep hill going up to Pan Point, but it was still a fun ski down!

Here's a movie of me getting my ass whooped by a bunch of 12-year-olds: http://www.cs.washington.edu/homes/gyngve/MVI_1252.AVI

I picked them up from Metro on Broadway.

He must have learned that trick in the military.

The story about the Sues who knew each other since kindergarten was really cute. I was hoping the one who wanted to take the underpriveleged kids rafting through the Grand Canyon would win.