Gary_Yngve

I just got back from a four-day Mountaineers trip to Washington Pass that fulfilled the Intermediate Rock climbs that I needed to graduate. We (four of us on two days, three of us on the other two -- the fourth was feeling sick) climbed a bunch of stupid stuff: Liberty Bell: Barberpole, Overexposure Concord: Cave Route NEWS: NW Corner SEWS: East Buttress Direct, SW Rib (with steep fingercrack variation) Cutthroat: South Buttress Like I said, we climbed a bunch of stupid stuff. We also climbed slowly and inefficiently as well, for example doing Cutthroat car-to-car in 6.5 hours, including spending half an hour on the summit and another twenty minutes lounging around by a stream on the way down. So if you want to climb stupid stuff and travel at a snail's pace, the Mountaineers are for you!

Mambo Jambo at X32 for when you don't feel like driving far

Well, it probably wouldn't happen. I highly doubt the Mounties would go up there with more than four people total, and those four would be competent. NR Stuart is not the Tooth...

Yeah, now that I think of it, this is mostly a basic class thing (as well as the first review fieldtrip for Intermediate). I believe I wore blue jeans and a cotton t-shirt to Rock I and Rescue Methods and didn't get hassled by anyone about it. But an instructor did give me a lot of shit for showing up to Camp Long without appropriate clothing for the mountains. As JimmyO said, most of the folks are laidback and cool...

Just wear the polypro then. No need to wear the shorts.

Yeah, I remember reading those specs, jokingly wondering if they were going to kick me out for my 7mm perlon cordelette. Apparently someone screwed up, because on their website, they had the link to Tom Meyer's study of strengths and fatigue over time, but in their handout, they had the classic Mountie phrase, "If you don't use this brand of 5.5mm spectra or tech cord or whatever the fuck it was, you will die." Above phrase is commonly heard from certain overbearing instructors in similar contexts: If you wear cotton in the mountains... If you do not use belay gloves on a rap... If you don't have a candle in your 100 essentials...

Cupped hands as tlg suggested, or instead of a fistjam where the thumb and pinky are left-right (i.e. equal depth in the crack), rotate the fist so the thumb is closer and the pinky is further. Raise your index and middle fingers out of the way so that your hand can arch, making the fist narrower. Check out the cracks on the slightly-overhanging S-facing wall on the UW Rock. The left one for me goes from good hands to cupped hands, and the one on the right goes from small fists to large fists for me, I believe. Many of the .10a handcracks at Index widen to a fist-jam (at least for me) towards the top. But damn, you must have huge hands! A blue camelot for me is usually where hands end and fists start.

Some Forest Service asshole ticketed us this weekend even though we had a legit pass hanging, face-forward, on the rear-view mirror.

Yeah, it sounds like we were somewhere very close to it... we remember passing the 5.12a mantel route on the trail, and a little later, there was a fork left, which is where we went. Don't remember a color on the pin. We belayed at top and bottom on trees and didn't see any bolts around us. Certainly a lot of fun stuff to explore!

One time I did a google image search for horsecock in hopes of finding a picture of . Unfortunately many other images came up instead. The funniest part though were the links... Woman sucking horsecock Girls sucking horsecock Teens sucking horsecock Coeds sucking horsecock and finally... Slutty French Whores sucking horsecock. After that we asked ourselves what it would be like if the French whores weren't slutty.

Today we thrashed around on P3 of G-M (Chuck's recommendation for Stuart Gendarme practice) and did TR laps on HoC p3 with the 5.11 extension. Having torn up our hands sufficiently, we tried to find the knobby TR area, but our gumby asses failed miserably, and instead we climbed up some line that looked like fun... finger crack turn gardening adventure, probably 5.8 when clean. We spent a few minutes cleaning it up more on rap... There was a piton halfway up the route, so apparently it had been climbed before... We tried to do the 5.10 variation approach to P1 G-M, but we could barely pull one move on it... maybe the crimpy face isn't really 5.10?

When I was in undergrad, I took Real Anal. I didn't have enough of it so I did Comp Anal. After all that Anal, all I could handle was Num Anal.

did some work and played ultimate in the afternoon watched some sysadimn dudes walk in and quarrantine half of our computers due to some virus (and M$ being a dumbass)

No, but you'll need to fist-jam some wet cracks.

Here are the Pickets from Black Peak:

Wow, that's some amazing lighting... I have a pano from the same area, but it was taken from around noon, is washed out, and has some clouds in the way.

We were at 3:00 Rock on Sunday. MattP's party was the only other party we saw all day (I think they were on Total Soul).

I'm guessing Lowell means the west route. Beckey lists Lowell in the party having the FWA of Triumph, but it doesn't list any FWAs for NE Ridge.

I was in San Diego last week and played at the beach for two days... All the locals down there were perfectly bronzed, while I was walking around in my mountain/farmer's tan.

Thanks MattP for telling us where the start of Silent Running was. What a fun climb!

Eric8 and Slothrop enjoyed Guye. http://www.bodenner.net/~rkb/climb/guye-jun-28-2003.php

Thanks! Lots of good suggestions! These should keep us busy.

As in Ali Baba and the 40 thieves, the climber said, "Open Sesame", and the rock opened to admit said sling. He said, "Close Sesame", and the rock closed upon the sling trapping it forever until Gary came along to gaze upon its wonders. I heard that Ali Baba is the five of clubs.

Heh, we ran into some crazy UW physics dudes on our way out... they mumbled something about releasing radon and having their computer gimp fix some BIOS shit...