Gary_Yngve

When I was in undergrad, I took Real Anal. I didn't have enough of it so I did Comp Anal. After all that Anal, all I could handle was Num Anal.

did some work and played ultimate in the afternoon watched some sysadimn dudes walk in and quarrantine half of our computers due to some virus (and M$ being a dumbass)

No, but you'll need to fist-jam some wet cracks.

Here are the Pickets from Black Peak:

Wow, that's some amazing lighting... I have a pano from the same area, but it was taken from around noon, is washed out, and has some clouds in the way.

We were at 3:00 Rock on Sunday. MattP's party was the only other party we saw all day (I think they were on Total Soul).

I'm guessing Lowell means the west route. Beckey lists Lowell in the party having the FWA of Triumph, but it doesn't list any FWAs for NE Ridge.

I was in San Diego last week and played at the beach for two days... All the locals down there were perfectly bronzed, while I was walking around in my mountain/farmer's tan.

Thanks MattP for telling us where the start of Silent Running was. What a fun climb!

Eric8 and Slothrop enjoyed Guye. http://www.bodenner.net/~rkb/climb/guye-jun-28-2003.php

Thanks! Lots of good suggestions! These should keep us busy.

As in Ali Baba and the 40 thieves, the climber said, "Open Sesame", and the rock opened to admit said sling. He said, "Close Sesame", and the rock closed upon the sling trapping it forever until Gary came along to gaze upon its wonders. I heard that Ali Baba is the five of clubs.

Heh, we ran into some crazy UW physics dudes on our way out... they mumbled something about releasing radon and having their computer gimp fix some BIOS shit...

At the risk of having a bunch of jackasses post pointless inane replies, here I go: For the past few months, Eric and I have been hitting Index once every week or two (on weekday mornings with no one else around), and it's been great -- we've worked our way up to onsighting 5.9s (no, not Sagittarius) and 5.10a handcracks. It seems the next step to up our grades is to find harder routes to TR until we feel comfortable leading them and then test ourselves on unseen routes of the same difficulty. So what are some recommended 5.10bcd stuff that isn't too much of a pain to set up a top rope (i.e. can climb an easier route to access the anchors)? If you guys are lame and don't give any suggestions, we'll just wander up to Index and spend the day investigating ourselves... but suggestions would be appreciated.

I thought we already explained it... the road rash on my partner's arm was from a bike wreck, not from a lead fall! We swear!

That's right, we bailed from there because we were too scared shitless to scramble down five feet to the security of the bolt anchors on the belay ledge.

The placement actually looked as if the rock parted, someone put the sling in, and the rock closed on the sling again.

And the free end of the sling had an overhand tied in it partway up, just as you tie an overhand when using a cordalette.

actually it's blue, and it looked like Spectra

There doesn't appear to be a constriction (other than the constriction *above*) or any sort of knot. You can feel all the rock above, below, and behind the sling. It would have helped to have a light and a mirror... then one could see behind there as well. No importance to it... just ran across it today and we were puzzled by how it could have been placed there and how it's still staying.

There's a sling about ten feet of the deck that goes into the rock and vanishes you can feel behind it and under it. It seems to be wedged upwards in a crack yet resists a downward pull (didn't feel like bounce-testing it). Anyone know how it's staying in and how it get there?

The new part of the IMA supposedly opens in a few months... don't know any exact dates though.

Sadly, I've been getting way more of that lately than mountains... quite sad, really. I must get my mountains!!!

god, i totally could use a drink tonight... see ya there

I give the talk at SIGGRAPH next Tuesday. He's having a baby in about a week and a half. Between those two, his stranglehold on me should lessen. I plan on making up for my shitty climbing summer (I've been happy with the quality of routes I've done, just not the quantity) by doing a lot of climbing in August.