Bug

Colchuck lake. Then do Dragontail by either Asgar pass or the colchuck glacier. Or do Colchuck pk which would be the easiest. These are hikes with some scrambling. The glacier is small but can be frozen and hard. Take screws if you do it just to be sure. Or if you want rock climbing, do Ingalls pk.

Why do their cowboys yell "Woopie Ty Yi Yeah!!!"? Is that a condiment?

What are doggies for?

Descend past the horn then cut hard left for a long steep glissade. My guess is we were doin 30.

Thanks for the TR! I love the Tooth on a rainy day. Now I know what is behind that next fog bank.

There is nothing to discuss. The reason exists only in the here and now. I was there only then. Now I have only words to fragment a knowledge that becomes more obscure with every sentence..................................................... Quick. Somebody flush!

Take ski lessons. Otherwise you are trying to learn how to fly from an earth worm. I went downhill on long skinny boards for ten years. Then one day I took a lesson and learned how to ski. Don't fight it. You will only suffer longer.

We had 8 days of clear weather on the WB. Still didn't summit. HAPE got one of my team 17K. We also had some disputes in leadership, or was it a lack thereof? Any way, we didn't see any troughs or knee deep snow with MSR's. In fact we walked most of the way out in boots. It was stupid to not take skiis. I'd write a full TR but it would be all whinning about the one that got away. Mid May was the time to go this year. Traveling at night was important as it was blistering on the Kahiltna from 11 to 4. Much better colors at night too. Saw some 0 and maybe a few -10 nights but mostly luke warm. A couple times the temps dropped to -20 or -30 with a wind chill but that was gusty. Denali pass and higher got hit with some high winds but even those didn't last all day. One night I was packed and ready to solo the Rib from 14 but a linticular was over the summit at midnight so I went back to bed. Should have gone for it. Some Koreans summitted in mild winds at 3PM that afternoon. Best advice from Bug; go with people you know. I'm glad I went though. It's a huge place.

One thing I never speculate about is wether or not a gust of wind might pop up and blow away my stuff. I always assume it will happen and stake down my gear with a picket or two. I would speculate that these poor people might have benefitted from such an assumption. My guess is that his boot blew away in the tent. Then again, I have seen head sized rocks get rolled at the base of Castleton tower by a gust of wind. He could even have been trying to put it on when it blew away. Whatever the case, if anything good can come from this sort of thing, it is the opportunity to learn from those mistakes and passing that knowledge along.

For the inexperienced, the bottom of Disappointment Cleaver will seem very exposed. No vertical but very steep down to a vertical drop. It will probably scare him. But RMI will have you well secured. Give it a try.

What I don't understand is why you didn't take shoes and do the gendarm. That is one of my favorite pitches. Good climbing Colin!

Monkeywrench.

If it doesn't burn oil, eat oil, or drink oil, we have to find some other way to squeeze money out of it. We are the government. We are here to help.

Climbed Si on Saturday. OK stop clapping. I had my teenage stepson along. He plays golf at the Mt Si golf course and just had to climb it. At least I carried four gallons of water. Some friends and I went up McClellan Butte Sunday. Four more gallons. I leave for the West Rib Thursday night. Will be on the Kahiltna Sat. Cheers dudes!

Check out the direct ascent onto Liberty Cap instead of traversing right. There is usually a way onto it early in the year. That last slope to the summit above the serac is a rush.

Placements Mike. Placements. Anywhere along the bottom of Index lower wall. Don't get high. Er, don't get higher than you want to fall. Place, clip in a long runner, stand in it while you are watching your piece. Does it move? Does it smack you in the face? Does it do you the way you like it? Then top rope an aid climb. This will force you to twist and curse and finally get that hard to place piece. When this seems easy, Lead something you can free solo to get the rythm man. Then start pushing the grades up a little bit at a time. I have fewer climbing friends than I used to. Be careful.

Pink action suits and red-eyed white boys? I think I see a theme developing here. No beer. Just gu. This isn't Montana. They won't even let me bring my sheep.

We'll see you on our way down. We are three doing the Full Rib alpine style starting May 18. "Alpine style" is a relative term in Alaska. No double carries and no sled. Can you say hemeroid?

Look out the window as you drive through the Yukon.

After scrounging for money in a depressed economy for years I finally found the solution to putting together a rack cheaply. I used to cruise the Glacier Point Apron in free solo mode every evening snagging gear. The easier the climbing, the more gear I found. Am I a sleaze because I took booty from the Apron? I think not. I earned those credentials elsewhere. If I should leave a piece that you find retreivable, I wish you as much fun as I had with it.

Purchased the corporate kind. Proven effective. The vitamin supplement idea is great. Got it covered. More beer.

quote: Originally posted by projecthex: We all think you should get your fat ass up and drive over there to check conditions yourself! What's with all this "is there snow there?" bullshit? If you want to know fucking check it yourself!! I'll give you one hint though: your mom's patch is still pouring all down her legs. Out of line asshole. He does not speak for me or anyone I know.

I need 75 or 80 packets of GU. Anyone know a cheap source?

I am looking for about 75 packets of gu. Anyone know where the cheapest place to get it is?

Oh boy! !Religion!. AAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH BELIEVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Get on the band wagon. "JAKE, the problem you state is called christianity or probably orgainized religion for that matter.....it tells us that there is always something wrong and that we need to tell others what we see wrong with them too.....it is a brilliant way to control billions of people...even make them kill each other, over principals that if were looked at with any type of skepticism would be so laughable, that you would wonder how people could even get so deep into the bullshit.... but i really dunno" You used the same attack that you condemned religion for. "what's wrong with XXX is .............." Look inside yourself for the real problem. Anger doesn't need religion. I feel your pain.