Bug

Un ugly matron from east Germany.

OK. Greg_W has volunteered. There is a climber out there.

Come ON climbers. Friday Saturday. Newbies welcome. You will like the w ridge of Stuart. Anyone else, I'm open. There are some climbers out there right?

Chrisianity was a recycle your soul religion until Justinian had teh pope assasinated and installed a pope who spewed a more Roman view of things. Theodora was his lovely wife who may have had a strangle hold on his dick and designs on her own immortality. Most likely, it was she who was the evil genius behind the radical shifts in social norms of that time. Anyway, I would not want to live forever in this body. No. Not Pamela Anderson's either. Just give me 135 years in this one and I will be ready for the next phase. That gives me about 96 years to go which is about how long I predict it will take for the new global society to stabalize. History will call us primitive globalists.

I did it in mountain boots the year before that.

It's a long way eh. Thanks for the invite. I'm looking for a higher climbing to driving ratio.

I promise not to roll in any shit or stick my hands in your gorp.

W ridge or Stuart? S face of Prussick? Anything else?

Very nice. Can't wait to see the pics.

Right on dude! I traveled endlessly until I was 34. Whenever I was interviewing for a job, I was calculating how long it would take me to save enough money to quit and go traveling. Mexico and Syria were my favorite places to visit. Alaska in the summer was a close third. My diatribe was about now, when I have three kids and a wife, house, boat, health insurance and a whole bunch of even more boring stuff that requires a stable existence. Don't let the rain get you down. Try white water boating or scuba diving until the snow flies.

NW Or is the only place I know of that gets MORE rain than Western Wa. I lived there off and on for about eight years. So you must not be refering to that. Eastern Or has the mighty Smith Rock and the Willowas even further out there but Smith is over-run and the Willowas are in the middle of nowhere. Hard to get a job there. I tried. The OR volcanoes are nice but not any better than WA volcanoes and NONE of them come close to the variety on Rainier. I have land there and have checked out some of the routes. For the most part, OR has very little granite near a place you could reasonably live and work. Idaho and Montana are great places but again offer limited job options. I lived in MT for 30 years and worked a fair amount in Idaho. The living standard there is depressing. Move there if you are already rich. Otherwise develope a taste for rice and beans and murder your share of wildlife (I love fresh venison). California? Somebody else cover that crowded mess. I'm at work and do not have time. Colorado is pretty cool but you pretty much need to be near Denver or Boulder or you are stuck in the seasonal income bullshit again. Utah is where my inlaws are from. They will come to your door soon. NM and AZ ,try climbing from May through mid October. Alaska-too dark in the winter. Yup. I like WA. I go over to the east side when I need sun in the winter. I get my girls out on lakes and in the mountains all summer. I used to climb 3 days a week. We ski all winter. We have plenty of money because mommy and daddy went to college and got good jobs in a prosperous city. I am happy here. I love to travel but this is where I want to live. Maybe you should adjust your meds.

All my wife's gear.

Wow. I thought you were Dan's new avatar. Now I have rethink all your posts.

Your dog looks fast and light.

"Be prepared" is the Boy scout motto. Troop 9 in Missoula MT used to go on 50 mile hikes through the Bob or the Mission Mts every summer. We normally had 50 lb packs the first few days for 7 days out and no climbing gear. Some of the kids still got cold. They weren't prepared because they had a lot of worthless shit in their packs. The same can be true of today's high tech climbers. Having a leaning toward fast and light inspires one to think a little more carefully about what is really needed. Being lighter without shorting yourself is always a good thing. It does take experience to "know" what you will need with a high degree of accuracy. But the more thought you put into it, the more likely you will be to leave something heavy and unnessessary at home.

I do not know the angles or any other theoretical stuff, but I do know that I have fallen on friends, Camelots and TCU's at all degrees of placement and have not had one pull. Maybe this is luck. I don't know. But, I do know that I have fixed one friend and have seen many fixed cams. I try to place them 1/2 to 3/4 also and I always put at least a short draw on them. It seems like they do like to walk more the less retracted they are. One more note, I have seen friends hold a fall on two cams. Any placement is better than no placement. You might be pleasantly surprised.

How do you post pics!?

If I say I'm a hasbeen it means I would like to cheastbeat about how good I used to be but I am so far from it now, no one would believe me. A 5.10 climber should be able to lead most 5.10s. A solid 5.10 climber can usually get up an 11 and should be able to cruise any 10 on lead. That was the assesment scale I used to find in most places. But I am a hasbeen.

Hey. That's my home town and that was my cousin Dale.

Yeah its like people think someone is reading this board for some reason. We all know we're a bunch of posers with pocket protectors and taped glasses. "Go fast and light" really means "palm pilot". Good thread. Here come my five paragraphs. The best fast and light trip I ever took was in the fall of 1976 on Commo peak in the Bitterroots. Four of us set out from the car and made it up the trail and to the top of the ridge in about 2 hours. We had day packs and one stove and some . Two guys stayed in a cave with a fire going and made soup while Greg and I free soloed the summit crag which was about 1000' of vertical. When we came to a wall that dissappeared into the fog, Greg went left up a gully. I remembered the face from a previous recon and counted on ledges and chimneys. I climbed for about 40 minutes not being able to see more than fifty feet above or below. When I topped out, Greg was just coming around the corner of the gully about 100' away and we were ina clear pocket on the summit. There is a west facing wall that dropps off a long ways and we could see the fog rushing vertically past us. I stuck my hand out and played with the fog for awhile making it shoot into our pocket and over at Greg. Suddenly, the fog blew by us and I was hanging out over about 1000 feet of vertical like it was nothing. We laughed and sent up a cloud. Then we descended to our friends and jumped down the mountain in scree and snow. So in the absence of good equipment, take lots of . That way you'll stay loose and boogie. Sometimes I miss the carefree days of highschool. Other days, I wonder how I managed to survive.

Coached my stepson (17) where to puke rum without laughing. Carried a large rock out of the Bitterroots for my friend's garden. Taught my daughter (7) how to snorkel.

I am able to cover more ground over a weekend or cover a little bit of ground after a nice nap in an alpine meadow. It depends on my mood.

Unused. First sub reasonable offer gets em. Say$25?

I sweat like a pig for obvious reasons but I still use VBL's in supercold. Like -20 and colder, it becomes reasonable for moderate skiing/climbing. I almost always use breadbags in cold temps even if I am sweating profusely just because it keeps my socks dry and therfor warmer. My mother grew up in Chicago and raised me in Montana using the bread bag technique as far back as I can remember. Of course, she also used to put them over my head befor she shoved me out the door. I always thought she had a quirky sense of humor.

If its cold out they are fine. If it's not cold out, I don't use them. I also use a thin capaline sock inside. There is a mechanism in the body that shuts down or diminishes sweet production at some point. I don't understand it but Stephenson Warmlite had a few pages about it in an old catalog of theirs. They were producing vapor barrier everything in the early seventies. Maybe sooner.