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Everything posted by Bug
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	Woops. Make that the 27th-28th.
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	I'm looking for a partner for the 28th 29th. Light and fast.
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	OK so as I unsderstand what you said, continue up the Stuart lake trail 5 minutes past the swamp. If that is the case, I did that once but still had some bottomland BW2 between there and the hill up into the basin. Is there a semblence of a trail through there?
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	What are you flaggin there dude?
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	Yeah. No shit. Who knows where that trail goes through there anyway?
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	I would be interested on the 28th, 29th.
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	You can find your own way all over that mountain. No telling what you will find tho. Serpentine is worth doing once. But I would do the toe route that I mentioned first. Especially if you two are up for the fin instead of the ledges below the fin. Either way is pretty cool. At that level on Serpentine, you've been doing simul-climbing for several pitches and have a few more to go - all through slabby and sloping ledges with loose blocks abounding. N ridge of Stuart is also better (in my opinion). Again, if you are leading 5.9 comfortably, do the gendarme. It is really cool. The gully is OK but just more alpine 3rd & 4th class.
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	Serpintine has 4 good pitches. The rest are medeocre. What level do you want to climb at? If Serpintine is at your highest level, Connect the routes up the center face from the lowest part of the toe to the ledges on the fin (look in the brown Becky guide). That goes at 5.7 with lots of clean pitches (20+). If Serpintine is right in the middle of your range, do the Fin. Routes criss cross all over that face, but most people do the Backbone Ridge route when they do the fin (5.9). After that, do the Balance rock route (5.10-5.11). Or push on and do the South Face of Prussik (5.9).
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	1 quart. Size matters. Wide mouth is prefered. Don't spill.
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	No mule carries load, My pack weighed heavy with wine, I lay as beached whale.
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	It was father's day so I "climbed" to Barclay lake with my little fire starters. They got one going. I polished off a bottle of red. We took the beach condo with a view of the north face of Mt. Baring. There was not much else to mention except that I got a box of malted milk balls as a present. I had my 10x25's and spent hours scoping potential routes. There are none. The mountain is choss.
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	Is that a bi, swingin' climber thing? I am SO out of touch... Woohoo! First pagetop! (Sorry, Klenke! My Bad!) Don't get your hopes up big guy. I'm a little more selective than that.
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	I once found a summit register on the side of a mountain. We were about a thousand feet below the summit at the base of a wall. We signed it and threw it in a crevasse. Now that's archiving.
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	You are correct Stephan. That is also my point. Its usually not the technigue (SP?) used, but those using it. But I do agree with him that the example of the six tied together on Lib-ridge is not safe, and that the "I'll belay you up" while he simply coiled rope withoput any actual belay is a totally unsafe and crazy way to do it. I bet he hit it on idiot day. I agree. The K2 arrest involved two separate ropes of three with one in a makeshift stretcher. The arrest was made by driving his ax shaft into a crack in a rock, not snow or ice. Very specific details involving very intensely experienced climbers.
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	I have done it three ways. Up Mountaineer crk day1. Up and over and out Ingalls day2. OK but need a shuttle. Up Mountaineer crk day1. Bivy above gulley day 2. Around Sherpa pass and back up mountaineer and all the way out. day3. This way really sucks. Especially with a slow partner. Up to Stuart Lk Friday evening. Day 1/2. Summit, and descend W Ridge couilour and traverse west and back to Stuart lk and out Day2. Long day 2 could be broken up obviously. I prefer the Stuart lk approach because the trail is obvious and can be hiked at night. I prefer the W Ridge descent because it drops you about 3.5 miles from lk Stuart. 2 short raps off the summit block and 3rd & 4th class down the (dry) gulley. The only hard work involved is traversing from stuart pass to Jack ridge.
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	I am an east sider and I think it is obvious that more people will show up if it is at Magnuson. Last time we had a "gear swap" at Marymoor, three people showed up. Magnuson Thursday, 6/12. Bring a dead cow.
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	Mr Seuryncks needs the IRA's solution. With his own drill.
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	Most excellent.
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	I'm sure it's interesting but I am not subscribed to that capitalist rag.
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	Wood is ready. I was up at Muir with him. His gear, attitude, and legs are all in shape. He just needs someone with previous experience to go with. I'm booked or I would do it. The 21,22 may still go but is doubtful. Good luck!
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	After ten years of not seeing my older brother anywhere but weddings and funerals, he and a friend came up to follow me up Rainier. I was to be the fearless guide and glacier skills expert. They drove up from Oregon and I drove down from Redmond to meet at Paradise in the morning. I grabbed a burrito at a quick stop and popped it into the microwave for the specified time and jumped back into my van. The first bite should have been enough. The outside was piping hot and the inside was frozen. Hungry already and needing carbs for the hike to Muir, I ate it down. Big mistake. The rumbling began in the Paradise parking lot. As we passed the last outhouse I could no longer fart safely. As the day progressed, I visited every tree, stump and rock between Paradise and Muir. No time for blue bags. These were emergencies. My brother and his friend were a little concerned with their choice of guides. My brother descended 1500 ft to help me with my pack. They both thought I was totally out of shape and a complete idiot. By morning I had evacuated the exploding burrito completely. We summited easily and they both had a hard time keeping up. I was exonerated of all accusations except for multiple counts of defecating in public. I need to be more careful with the tone of my posts. But just in case I forget, don't ever take me seriously.
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	There is nothing funny about all the krap you left on the mountain for others to see, smell and eat. If you were a true mountaineer you would go back up there with a gross of blue bags and clean it up. Until then, you're summit does not count. Next time eat more Rookies!!!!!
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	I have seen two flakes pop and follow. It turned out lucky both times. I'm really glad I wasn't tied to either one.
 
