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Bug

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Everything posted by Bug

  1. This is what I use but I always include a red and a gold camelot. Dru's hexes are good too but probably not as familiar to the younger generation of climbers. As a side note, my drilled hexes are noticably lighter than similar size cams. I still prefer the cams for their versitile size range and flare protection.
  2. Well I haven't been successful in winter but Gib Ledges is the most popular winter route.
  3. The most dangerous time in any climbers climbing carreer is when they are first starting to lead - especially trad. The increase in numbers of climbers is due in large part to the increase in bolted routes. Once these sport climbers get good, it is natural that some will venture into trad climbing and leading. At this point, they enter a whole new field of expertise that requires a safe and restrained approach. The death of climbers is always worth discussing if for no other reason than to help others take the endeavor more seriously and help prevent their own untimely demise. I always read accident reports to gleen what I can about what did not work. And in the process of discussing an accident, it isn't going to kill anyone if you express normally acceptable respects to the dead and their loved ones in the off chance that a loved one might read the passage. I wish you all a long happy life of climbing.
  4. Duck tape, duh. I'm up for it too. Keep me in mind too Norm Norm is really fast. Put your joggin shoes on now and find some hills.
  5. I have not been to the summit in winter yet. After three or four tries, I have resigned myself to calling in sick by cell phone on the way there. Count me in if you go Norm. I'll do likewise. Oh yeah, do you know how I put these camprons on my boots? Do we really need them? Just kidding X. Keep a sense of humor or you will go insane on this site.
  6. I think my dad was hoping one of my brothers or I would not return. He was always taking us to remote areas, way off trails and into country that no one else often went. There was always some climbing involved although we never took ropes or harnesses. Sometimes we ran out of food. It seemed like he always planned for one less day or one less mouth than it turned out being. We had to eat fresh trout and berries, and glacier lilies and many other wild aaand semi edible substances that would make a good FEAR FACTOR. Sometimes, we didn't find anything else to eat. I think that's why we always took the dog. I remember one trip where the dog lost 15% of his weight. It was the only time I remember being truely skinny. Then we started climbing bigger mountains and using water ski ropes and seatbelts as harnesses. Scary stuff but he still didn't get rid of any of us. So he took us into a big cave. We squirmed down thru a corkscrew tunnel and into a small room where there was a hole in the floor. We had a goldline by then but the seat belts still worked fine. We raplled down forty feet hanging free from any walls into total darkness. This was our first ever rapell. It was also our first prussick out. After that, we started top roping everything we could find. We were in mountain boots or tennis shoes but probably did some 5.9 here and there. It was about then that I started going out on my own and with friends to free solo whatever seemed to make sense. After several years of climbing seriously, I went out with my dad again. We had Fires and real gear. He flashed 5.9 at age 67. He even talked casually as he climbed. We moved him to some 10a cracks and he stopped talking but made it up with no falls.
  7. That is kids size 11. My five yearold has grown out of them.
  8. This is kids size 11. My 5yr old has grown out of them.
  9. They are here for the taking. You will have to come and get them in Redmond. There are some skiis too.
  10. PM me. I'm in Redmond. You will have to come and get them.
  11. My youngest is now 5. She is a good intermediate skier adn a great gymnist. Her sister is 7 and big for her age. She always wants to climb mountains. It's genetic. Hang in there and spend time with your kids. The paybacks are huge. They are my favorite oudoor partners. I still get out with larger more experienced folks a few times a year but I am looking forward to having a couple rope guns at my disposal.
  12. MMPHHHHH. AAAAAARGH. MMMMMMMMPH. MMMMMM. AAAARGH. Can you see it?
  13. Save your gas. Take the W ridge trail to Mt Persis. Bivy anywhere on top. Wind and wet are guarunteed. Sunday AM you can do the traverse to Index and back.
  14. Jeffy was bright kid with a little too much energy. In Highschool Biology, Mr Perrin was a droning sort of lecturer. Jeffy was glazed over staring out the window when he suddenly straightened up, smiled brightly and said, "I'll bet I could climb out that window, traverse that ledge (2" wide) and come in that window". We were on the third floor. Mr. Perrin was a really nice guy and just laughed and said " that probably wouldn't be a good idea Jeff". Then he walked out of the room. Was this a challenge? Jeffy took it as such and was out the window in a flash. When Mr Perrin came back in the room jeffy was just reaching to the edge of the entry window and climbed in. He saw Mr Perrin and got a little nervous so he accidentally knocked a couple microscopes off the table. He then jumped down, spread his arms and said, "TA DAAA". Mr Perrin was not amused. Later that same quarter, Jeffy's friend Greg was still angry at Jeff's suspension and decided to stage a protest. In the middle of Mr. Perrin's lecture, Greg SCREAMED, "I CAN"T TAKE IT ANYMORE". He lept up from his desk. People were backing away. He ran to the window (third floor rember), and dove out. There was a large tree about eight feet out that Greg dove into but Mr. Perrin barely made it the window without fainting. After that, Greg and Jeffy did some wild things.
  15. Well this is alot of heuy over something we all wish we could do. Now don't get me wrong. I went to highschool with Alex Lowe and she ain't him. But, I also put myself thru college and now I have to put my step son and my two kids thru college. It isn't easy. This girl is smiling folks. She has found her marketing niche and is making bucks. A friend of mine has a son who was a very hot bike rider. He had all the moves down long before it was blasting on TV. He refused to "sell out" to the big companies. "Riding is about the sport". OK. So now he is all washed up and broke. He does not inspire anyone unless there is a bong sucking "World Championship" I haven't heard of. This girl is marketing something the public is willing to buy. Go girl. After Enron, invading Iraq for oil, blah, blah blah, This girl is refreshing. I give her You nay sayers need to look outside your sport. Nobody cares about us. For the most part, climbing is a selfish endeavor. How many of us have not scrificed jobs, relationships, etc for our climbing. Who is served by it other than ol #1? OK other climbers gain from new routes but that isn't why I put up new routes. I did it because it was damn fun. Most of them were never reported anywhere. The public will never understand why she isn't the "world champion". Only we will ever know the difference and we already do. If one of my daughters has the opportunity to cash in on something, i will encourage her to do so. I think I'll even buy them each a Torry Doll.
  16. Right on. Thanks for the input. You will see my tracks.
  17. Is there any reason I should not buy a uased Ortovox M-1 for $150?
  18. I am looking at a Ortovox m-1. How does it differ from the M-2? Is it worth $150? Thanks for your info. Bug
  19. I was with a friend and his young black lab one fine fall day. The dog took off after a scent and could not be deterred. He came back with blackie in hot persuit. We climbed trees but the bear split as soon as he saw us. Could have just yanked us out of the trees if had wanted to. Nice dog. I suggested having him stuffed.
  20. Olivia, my 7 year old daughter for always wanting to go with. Greg_W for not hitting me with batteries on the NR of Stuart. Harvey, the giant pink rabbit. He kept up with me all the way.
  21. Bug

    THE FEAR

    Yeah, I think that was right before I used ALL my blue bags for the trip! Mine, this year: On J-berg, hearing Caveman yell up, "Nathan just took a 30-footer!!" I couldn't see what happened and I immediately imagined the worst. It all worked out and we learned to rappel off of shrubbery!!! Is there a trip report for that one? I slept through one of those in the same place. It happened at night and everyone but me was woke up and sure we were all going to die. The entire face was affected.
  22. Did someone say that? That's 4 and 1/2 cents. I agree that I just shouldn't go there (Glacier Park). I've been there enough. I'm OK with thatand haven't been there for years. One thing that seems to be missed tho by most of the anti gun posters here is that carrying a gun is not synonymous with shooting randomly at anything that moves. Carrying a gun and using it at maulee's disgression is a personal decision. Pepper spray works most of the time. Being careful works most of the time. Carrying a gun and using the bullets parsimoniously gives you an edge. It's not a cure-all or guarunteed to save your life. But my life is worth saving. Gun, rock, hand-grenade - I don't care about ethics. I want to live longer than the bear that might kill me. If you would rather die than give yourself an extra edge over Darwinian destiny, I will say nice things about you at your funeral - and still carry my creep stopper.
  23. Expect the days when handicapped access will be required for all major climbing walls.
  24. Sometimes a few minutes is all you get. I went up there for a three day trip to climb and we got caught in a blasting storm. We knew it was probable so we were prepared. It was really cool to be at the top of Asgard getting pounded. We got out and walked around a lot. We summitted Dragon Tail, Annapurna and who knows what else. To be honest, we could never see more than a few feet around us except for one five minute period. We were on top of Dragontail in extreme conditions. Full down, gortex, etc for the hike. When we got to the top, we had a drink and were about to hightail the hell off of there when a clear pocket appeared almost instantly. We couldn't see down but we could see out to the west over the clouds. Then we saw the wall approach and cover us again. Other than the day coming in, that was the only time we saw the sky.
  25. Bug

    THE FEAR

    Alpine climbing with a friend. Touched a rock and loosed an avalanche of 10 to 20 pounders right at him. He had a second or two to respond. I was screaming "ROCK" immediately and he dove into a step. It went over the top of him without hitting him or doing any damage to gear.
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