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Everything posted by Bug
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	I've done Stuart in a day and in two days. Either way it's fun for it's own reasons.
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	I was playing Cranium with the inlaws. We lit off afew of our own in direct violation of the ettiquette of Redmondia.
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	I 'll give beta to anyone. I hit this board pretty intermittantly. You usually have a good epic worked out by the time I see the posts. Since you know where I live, drop by for a Corona.
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	Hey MtnMouse, maybe we should put our cars together and see if we can get one that runs out of the combo.
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	Im out of town this wed but after that, I will be there. We could even finish up with a little water skiing afterward. That is if you don't mind riding with a suburbanite......
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	Heading up hard moderate snow, the guy ahead of me on the rope was using poles while I had my ice ax. I proceded to get a little higher in case he fell. Upon looking back, he berated me for getting so high. He said if "I" fell I would jerk him too hard for him to hold a fall. Duh. If he fell we were in trouble anyway. Especially since there were two ahead of me with poles and sleds. This guy thought he would be able to stop himself with poles and a sled better than I would be able to stop myself with a ice ax and no sled. Needless to say, the trip did not go well.
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	Scuzzy lookin death dudes. Climb on.
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	Good beta so far. I've descended the NW butt with few problems. There is lots of loose rock and some route finding that is a couple notches more difficult than the west couliour (down,left,left,skirtslab, down,left,descend rounded ridge and stay on crest). I would do the wr. Off the summit block, get in the w notch. From there head for the notch in Long John tower. Then head down the gully. You might do a few raps below the tower but wouldn't need to. This only adds about a mile of sidehilling compared to the NW butt. You do not want to get off route on the NW butt. It's big and steep.
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	If you stink we don't bite. None of my relatives like the smell of vitamin B1. A used sheet of Bounce (fabric softener) smells bad too. Or that mint herbal repellant that you have to put on every twenty minutes.
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	I was going 65. It almost trashed the valves. I killed it immediately and coasted uphill to a pullout. Anyone want to buy a used Escort cheap? Stephan, I can't look like a climber unless I am climbing. When I hitch-hike I look like a hitch-hiker. The only time I don't look like what I'm doing is when I try to surf.
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	Couldn't sleep Thursday night. Stared at teh weather report and started packing in spite of a yanked calf muscle. About 4AM I was off to head up the Emmons. Hopefully meet up with Kevin at camp Curtiss. At milepost 61 my timing belt popped and I coasted to a stop. After a few driveby's a cowboke and his son stopped and loaned me his cellphone. No one answered so I left a message. Awhile later a park employee stopped and let me use his phone. Got hold of my wife in Redmond and had her call a tow truck from Enumclaw. He showed up about 8AM and took me to Cascade Auomotive, a medium size shop with good old fashioned small town service (360 825-4071). They had me back on the road at noon. With a late start and no sleep for 32 hours, I headed home and slept. To all of you who drove by
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	Top of Queen Anne Hill in the park looking over downtown. You get Elliot Bay and Lake Union.
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	There were only nine of them. I doubt that it ever happened. I think they hunkered down just out of sight of camp and waited for a storm. It's all a hoax to generate a long drawn out thread on CC.COM. Who has the book rights? Follow the money.
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	we will have a comp... For range or accuracy?
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	Yeah. Right on. I plan on coming over there for the whole thing with lots of JD. I'll drink till I puke in the fire pit Friday night. Saturday night I'll wine about how no one will climb with me and all the chicks are stuck up. Sunday morning I'll shinny to the top of the May pole with a CC.COM banner and piss on the first six pair of Leiderhosen that come in range. Yodle-odle-odle-odle-lea-hee-hOOOOOO.
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	OK. Thanks. So.... just how many cc.comers are willing to be on a web cam?
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	Two of us are going up the Schurman rt Fri-Sat 27-28. Light and fast. If you are interested, you should be in good cardio vascular shape. We aren't the fastest on the hill but we pass a lot of teams (Boy I bet that hurts ). Anyway, light bivy on the dirt pile above Schurman and leave bivy about midnight. Back to Redmond hopefully by 5PM Saturday. PM me.
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	Yep, yep, yep..... Group hug everyone.... - well maybe not... pourquoi non? Ah, vous parlez francais? Wow. A cyber orgie.
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	Right. Thanks. That's what I was hoping so I only have to take one pad and light bivy gear.
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	Dude. That was me with a new batch of mounties.
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	Is the ridge below Schurman clear of snow? Enough to bivy on dry ground?
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	IMPEACH BUSH!!!!! I'll be late. See you there.
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	It does if you have a #4 and a #5 Camalot . And with respect to bailing. I don't think you want to have to bail off of any of those long Dragontail climbs. You'd need to do a ton of downclimbing or a ton of rap webbing. I guess Backbone is more a committment in that respect because it's got two actual climbing sections (OW and a pitch or two after it) then the Fin. So you might get by the first but get stopped by the Fin and bailing from that far up would be bad news. On the Serpentine Arete you've only got one section of truly technical rock, right in the middle. So if you get by that section you might as well just go to the top as go down. All pretty true. When I think of "bailing" on a face that big, I think of finding the easiest way up. Especially since the walk-off can be done in the dark (with headlamps). In terms of bailing up, the ledges that cross the fin are easy and fast 3rd or 4th class. From the ledges you go up a 5.5 corner. There is a 5.6 traverse with a pin. Then follow the ledge to a 5.7 crack.Then you skirt around left to the ridge. But if you have any time left, do the Fin. It's a little scary for new 5.9 leaders but some of the best air in the enchantments.
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	You won't have trouble finding an apartment right now. It's finding a climber who isn't too stoned to climb you need to worry about.
 
