Bug

I used to love running waterfalls and free soloing. They are very similar to me. Now that I have kids, I have focused on climbing because I get more diversity out of it and mainly, because it is a better workout. But the risk factors for both are in two categories; known, managable hazards, and Objective dangers. Both categories can be worked with to minimize the overall risk. Being able to assess either requires experience. Experience only comes from getting out there and taking the risks. I guess you have to make an honest attempt to learn from every experience and progress slower than you think you are capable of. Or just go for it and hope the objective dangers don't pop up and that your execution of your method for managing the known hazards is spot on.

Seriously, I do not know anyone who still drives a VW. I have known several who swore by them but now drive something else. As one friend put it, "Now I drive a Ford and I spit on my tool box as I walk out the door." They break down a lot and have no power. Get a Toyota van if you want good mileage. Get something with a 6 cylinder and you will still get 20+ per gallon and the extra power will mean your engine isn't working as hard and will not wear out as fast. Just my 4 cents.

I'll bring Olivia. The last time she had a lawn dart in her hand it went straight up. We scattered.

I have a MH Absolute Zero parka and a pair of FF Front point pants that I will trade the two of you for your skiis and bindings. You guys will have to work out how to share.

So what's up with the mountain being out for two days and no TR's?

When your grandmother calls you from New Jersy to tell you it is time.

#2 The blue in the sky and the crispness are better.

There will be a group of four of us doing that side Memorial Day weekend. F-M probably come out Sun tho.

Well.... I didn't realyy dive either....

No problem. I guess I came across stronger than intended. Email & posts can distort things that way. I enjoy being out and I enjoy passing on what I know and then hearing about the adventures that follow. To anyone interested, I reccommend reading a book or two on glacier travel and work and practice a few of the skills (z-pulley system, prussicking etc)in your back yard. I can also meet you at the Marymoor rock. I take my girls to gymnastics and/or soccer near there 4 days a week. That goes for anyone. PM me.

OK. Here's the deal, I aint no superstar climber and there are a lot of people on this site who know a lot more than I do. I was trained well by people who just wanted to climb and were willing to pass along what they knew. They always made it clear, and I make it clear now, YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOURSELF. All I can do is tell you what I think is best. Wether or not you are willing to follow my advice or are capable of following my advice is your choice and problem. That said, I would be happy to go up to camp Schurman sometime this summer (late July?) and practice some glacier skills. I would suggest that we keep the group small. No more than five. Let me know if you are interested. Cheers Bug

Great list. "Did you know...." Mt Kenya supports the greatest diversity of flora and fauna within a 10X10 kilometer section of anywhere in the world. The second most varied place is the eastern rocky mountain front in Montana - One of my power places. Jump back to Yosimite, climb half dome, and sit unroped on the diving board hanging your feet over the edge - place two. Retreat to a secluded granite range and do a first ascent of a large crag. Along the way, contemplate being the first human to ever be in that place - place(s) one.

Sounds frustrating.

If you don't mind spending the money, RMI is a good place to start. If you are looking for a cheeper option, Read some books, like Freedom of the hills, and PM me. I go out to play in crevasses occaisionally and you could tag along.

The Russians will break into my car and steal my stuff and if I catch them they will hurt my feelings.

Let me be the first to say "You are an idiot." and "I wish I was there." Nice TR but lacks pics.

Probably none of you are assholes. It just seems that way sometimes (except for me ). Check out MattP's info in the Climbers Forum. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/337469/page/0/view/collapsed/sb/5/o/all/fpart/1

This is the mother of all down jackets. You probably want something lighter. I got it for Denali.

The guy asked for information and got flamed by assholes. Ice ax and crampons are not needed for Ingalls. There are some snowfields that could be frozen hard depending on the weather and time of day, but I have never used them on the approach. If you are tired of being flamed here, feel free to send me a private message. You just click on my avatar (Bug) and it presents you with my profile and a "send PM" link. Ingalls is a great peak. You will love it. Cheers.

You should have asked him to jump up and down on the cornice to see if it was safe.

I will be climbing McDonald pk sometime during the week of Aug 7-14. You are welcomr to join me. It will be a one day trip in the middle of the week.

Take skiis. It will be a long slog. Check the road info in the Mt Stuart post in the Alpine lakes forum.

You are talking about an area that is choss. Some of it is solid here and there (Misson mnts have some good routes-McDonald pk) but all of it is highly-to-not-so-highly metamorphosed sedimentary rock that has then been folded by tectonic activity leaving it fractured and loose. There is a book called 'Montana Rock' you can borrow from me but it isn't very good. There are lots of small crags here and there and some places that have been developed but my advice is to head south 90 miles and climb in the Bitterroots. I would need hours to give you beta on that area. Gniess (like Mt Lemmon out of Tuson) in the front craggs and pure granite in the back-country. Or go up Lolo creek to the Quartz Monzanite domes. Hopefully, someone who has been climbing there more recently than 15 years ago can give you better info on the Flathead area. I go there to waterski.

Thanks, Muffy. (Someone actually asked me that the other day.) What are you doing posting at that time of the morning? Don't you have a job you're supposed to get to?

I was skiing "really good" when you were in a scrotum.