Bug

I wear glasses and use prescription glacier glasses but I also have a pair of sunglasses that work in a pinch. I just put duct-tape side panels on them. They do have to have max UV protection and be pretty dark. Photo-grays are not enough. She could also get a pair of those drugstore inserts that curve around the face. Or she could go without and permanently damage her night vision.

Voyager used retouched Hubble Pics. How can you beat that?

"Caution! I brake for hallucinations."

Oh for a wireless, remote access laptop. Don't worry Chuck. I'd tie you off.

Who would Jesus bomb?

Looking at the photos of bolts next to protectable cracks pisses me off. Whoever placed those bolts should go remove them. Why don't you just go bolt a ladder to the wall?

Buy chunks of oak, cut them into various size blocks and carry a very large hammer. Buy beer with all the money you save.

In the hills of Montana where few people go, I found a small promentory on which to sit and gaze into the hills before me. After I had sat there for a few minutes, I started to think about how nice it would be to have a little smoke. I adjusted my butt on the rock and looked down. There between my feet was a tiny glass jar like a blistex jar only clear and in it was a stinky bud. To this day, I am assuming it was pot but I do not remember anything else about that day.......................

My joints are over 40 but there are other parts of me that are still 16.

Simplify. Free-solo naked. Many of us started this way. My first rock climbing experience was at an alpine lake. We stripped to swim and then decided to jump off a cliff. We climbed too high and didn't want to reverse the moves so we climbed to the top and hiked back around. Had some nasty mosquito bites. Otherwise, just buy some super tape or sewn blue water slings and a couple biners. Make a quick-draw to use as an anchor. Also, If YOU are going to be the one threading the rope through the anchors, be sure to pull up a few meters and tie a loop to clip to yourself so you don't drop the rope. That's much more ambarassing than being discovered climbing naked by a large froup of mounties. Especially if they have to rescue you. We will shun you.

If you have any inclination to follow trad, you will need a cleaning tool.

Were you right above 2 fixed pins under a little bulge.. I took a big whipper there when my foot got stuck in the crack. Nope. Off to the right a ways. Clean widening offwidth up to a fixed 10 or 11 hex.

Yes. Not to rehash, but I really would not have done that if I didn't think he was seriously pushing the limits of his survival.

Luck has had a great deal to do with my survival. It was those near misses that convinced me that I had to listen carefully to the people who knew what they were doing. If I had tried to impose my style or methods on any of them, they would have climbed with someone else as well. Oddly enough, most of them had pretty much the same style and methods with a few technical tweaks of their own. I still like good luck. I just don't count on it.

OK. But were you naked? Bummer dude. That sounds harsh.

800 ft up Royal arches variation. Fell 60 ft. Cratered on ledge. Unhurt. Why use ropes?

That's weird. I got good results from him on my bivy sack. Must be hot. He was in Ogden at the time. I don't have his address or cell anymore. Too bad. I'd post it.

Should we go back to Icicle? September work? October?

True. I am harsh. The 5K M mountain in Peru he is climbing next week will be harsher. Sorry if I offended anyone. Seriously. I have been climbing alpine for 35 years and see a disaster lurking. I may piss him off and look like a total f'n jerk. But if one thing I say helps him push for the speed that helps him avoid death in a freak storm at altitude then my karma is still good. I don't see any signal that he accepts anything I said in PM's or elswhere. Spray at me all you want. I am worried about him.

Focus and complete the task at hand. Cut time where it is easy and safe to do so. 1) Rack gear quickly. Maybe even try a new system. Those squeeze chimneys are always going to suck with gear hanging off every loop on your body. 2)Rack gear in a way that is simple and reproducable. Do it the same way every time. If both partners do it the same way, the second can sort as he climbs and just grab what little is left from the lead and boogie. Or switch racks quickly for whatever reason. 3) Quickly complete what part of the pitch is obvious to the next rest stance. The unobvious becomes easier to judge the closer you get. 4) Learn to pack quickly or the night before. The last guys to start often have to climb in the dark. 5)Choose foods that require no cooking. Add hot water and stir. Gulp it down and go. We all love home cooking but The last guys to start often have to climb in the dark. 6) Being slow by choice is selfish. Alpine climbing requires efficient teamwork. I would not climb with you again for that one reason alone. You are otherwise a nice guy and you lead the hardest pitch. I wish you luck in Peru. I hope it does not come down to luck but I fear it will. You are tackling a long route. Peace.

I was told that most of the ones being taught, never returned to the slopes even if they could still walk.

I posted some pics in the gallery. Send that one to your mom Pnut.

Okay....NOW I am really scared. Bug, I met you the other night and you didn't seem that bad... See. I was playing the ninties thing and you didn't notice. Be specific. I don't get it. My generation invented Gloria Steinem. Look her up. I only exagerated a little bit. The virgin Mary was NOT included. OK. I'm calming down now. I went climbing with lots of girls and did not consider it a date. I am talking about being in a relationship and trying to teach your SO how to do something difficult and painful. When I was being coached on how to instruct skiing, I was told that the first rule of instructing was "NEVER TRY to teach a SO how to ski!" And they were serious. Otherwise, My humor may be raw but there is some truth there. I am like Jimmy Carter. I have lust in my heart for pretty women. I have heard that there is an operation that can change that but short of that, it is a fact of life for men. As I would tell my daughters, since YOU brought up the generation thing, "For a man, the relationship starts with physical attraction. He wants to have sex with you. You can't change that about men. So what you have to look for is one who can accept "NO" gracefully or outrun my 00 buckshot. Either way, you have picked a survivor. You decide which one is more interesting." Cheers and welcome to CC.COM. Seriously.

Have you looked at the West face of Dragontail? Start at the very bottom of the point of rock by Colchuck and pick a route. Definately include the Fin. Mix and match the pitches from different routes. Or do one of the cracks going up Asgar.

Dima and I were up there the same day. We were stuck behind Pnut and friend. They were moving OK but I was in a hurry to beat the clouds. We bailed right on SNafflehound ledges and got off route on a 5.10 stemming thing that turned out fun. Dima led that. The rest of our trip went well except for the divergence of styles. Still thinking about how to present the TR for that. Anyway, good meeting Peter and Ki up there. Hope to see you elsewhere.