Bug

Tofu in squeeze bottles.

I just saw a pair of Petzl/Mozer crampons that were really light. They strapped on with a good looking system that would be easy to fix or jury-rig in the hills. They would be my first choice for the volcanoes. Also do a search on crampons in the gear section. Or go to 2nd ascent in Ballard and ask to talk to someone knowlegable. They fix you up for 20-30 cheaper.

I haven't looked at teh south side of Stuart but from looking at the south side of the mountains around it, Stuart is probably pretty snow free up to 8000', patchy to 9 and firm consolidated snow from there. Or less

"Don't take it personal son. Women always pee in pairs."

The sea is ever changing. Each moment is it's own destiny.

Good luck putting things back together.

Right on. That's my style. Thanks.

Let's do Stuart. Full N ridge.

Mountain bike and trot up to Snoqualmie lake. Dive in and measure shrinkage. Easy day. You will not get real panoramic views from the canyon bottom. The views are nice but you will really have no idea how many spectacular peaks are all around you.

Nice alpine fun. What did those N face cracks go at?

I'll follow the cloud.

Certainly. Bring all the cute girls you want. OK,OK. The S Face would best be done by a team of 2 but having a couple others around doing stuff would be fine with me.

It is true that you pack like a girl, but odds are you would have left the bolt gun next to your tent...back home. Cheap shot. I like it. But it should be pointed out that both of you have been known to use the girl's room.

Lock it in dude. We'll have a blast.

I will be in the Enchantments July 9-14 doing whatever I can. If there is someone who would be up for the S Face of Prussick and other rock climbs at that level or easier. Send me a PM. I do not have a permit but will get one Friday AM (July 9). This may lead to some changes in planning such as Stuart or Dragontail to start.

Thanks a lot Szyjakowski. First thing in the morning I read your TR and get the visual of you in a swimsuit. Excuse me while I take out my garbage. It's full of breakfast.

If I die on a mountain, definately disect the incident to your heart's content. If that helps prevent someone else from making the same mistake, it is a good thing. I certainly meant no disrespect to anyone on Rainier. I am upset about it and wish their families the best. I also worry about people who say it was "bad luck". Choices were made. I wish you all safe climbing.

Just an fyi. Greg_w, BillyGoat and I went up to do Gib ledges a couple months ago and did not like the snow quality then. We backed off. It has continued to snow off and on with no significant warm periods to consolidate the snow. The upper mountain is blown clear and hard. I have canceled two later trips since then because of snow conditions. I am not a hardman but I am not a lightweight either. I would go up if I thought conditions were even moderately good. I also have the luxury of being able to trot on down there on a weekend but spending money on a plane ticket should not influence your decisions on a mountain. Why do so many people ask "What is going on up there this year?" I'll tell you. CONDITIONS SUCK! They will not change until it warms up and clears off and does not snow again. You can't set reliable protection in deep soft snow and you have to set good protection in hard ice which will slow you down. Meanwhile, weather systems continue to threaten. Sure, you can push up there with a good team or even two good solo climbers. But if you fall, you will fall a long ways. Some of these experienced climbers who pushed up there found this out. There are no minor mistakes up there right now. Self arresting on ice is nearly impossible once you get moving fast. Not easy in steep soft snow either. If you can't guarantee yourself that you will not trip or slip, don't go up there right now. Sorry to go off on you like that but I am tired of people looking at me like I am crazy because I climb Rainier. I have carefully chosen not to be up there so far this year. Live to climb another day.

#6 slung stopper. One of the first pieces I ever bought in 1975. Used on almost every pitch I climbed. Held many falls over 20 years. Now resides on the west face of Upper Exum Ridge.

Yo Baby. Breathe deep. Get high on that. Yo Daddy.

Hey doc, can you give me somthin that makes me pussywhipped? NO THANKS Dru.

First come, first serve. Cracks are not created by anybody. Linking a line of holds is a specific set of choices.

Hang in there. We are all still rooting for you.

They're OK. Just not my first choice in Cascade choss.

Probably about ten years but I only skied them for two short seasons. They are the yellow ones. I bought them from a rich guy who used them for one ski trip and didn't like them. If you don't mind unshaped skiis, these are great GS skiis with a bit of response left in them..