Bug

Nobody showed. We were there and even sent some 5.4. My credibility with my kids is dwindling. "Never trust a climber" they are saying. Man. That really hurts.

Carrying your gear to a higher camp would be harder but then you get a better view. If you are willing to do extra work, go for it. You will probably have higher winds and have to dig a platform for your tent or dig a snow cave, but if that doesn't matter to you, it would work. If you do not know how you will react to altitude, go up to 8 or 9 k for the first night and aclimate a little bit. You will not get into the park until 9AM anyway. Might as well take it easy and take in some tourist stops to get some nice views of the mountain and potential routes. All the guide books show camps and bivy spots and if you are willing to dig a lot, there are a lot more possibilities. Just remember, people have died from altitude sickness on Rainier. The first time I ever heard of it was when two guys age 18 and 19 did a foced bivy on the summit. The younger guy died in the middle of the night. They were in good shape, warm, watered and fed. They just weren't acclimated.

I used to heat my van with a propane heater. One evening after a long day at work in the woods, I lit it up and layed down for a minute. When I woke up, the heater was going way down, then back up, then way down..etc. I opened a window and it popped back up to full power. I definately felt a little spacy but there were no long term affects. That reminds me of a story. I used to heat my van with a propane heater. One evening after a long day at work in the woods, I lit it up and layed down for a minute. When I woke up, the heater was going way down, then back up, then way down..etc. I opened a window and it popped back up to full power. I definately felt a little spacy but there were no long term affects. That reminds me of a story. I used to heat my van with a propane heater. One evening after a long day at work in the woods, I lit it up and layed down for a minute. When I woke up, the heater was going way down, then back up, then way down..etc. I opened a window and it popped back up to full power. I definately felt a little spacy but there were no long term affects. That reminds me of a story. What was I saying........?

The obvious answer is, "climb alot". No smartassing intended. You will learn more from doing than from following a book. And later, when the book is poorly written, it will not affect your climb. Just as an example, I grew up in Missoula MT. The Bitterroots are right there at the south side and extend southward for another 100 miles. They had plenty of easy terrain to backpack in and as I got more and more comfortable in steeper terrain, I ventured on harder routes that I would pick out on maps. I never had a guide book and my father and older brothers only came with me in the first few years. As I gained experience, I was able to see routes that would have looked like death zones before. When I was 14, I got my first set of heavy touring skiis and started winter mountaineering. Same story. Wait, watch, go. I spent a lot of time in the same general area the first year. This helped me see how avalanche potential builds and releases. I also pushed harder routes between sections of familiar terrain. Go to the Enchantments or someplace similar and stay off the trails. Run the ridges or traverse the plataue taking in several peaks. Don't be chagrinned by having to back off and find a different way. If that doesn't happen, you are either not pushing yourself hard enough or are pushing past your respectable limits.

Parachutes burn amazingly fast. I got helied into a few fires with our gear dropped by plane first. We watched the gear land, then got dropped on a rdge nearby. One rail on the ridgge, one floating in air. We boogied down to the drop area and found everything intact. Now they longline everything in by helicopter. You might look up a few old packmasters from the airdrop days to get some hints. One thing I remember is that everything was piled on light wood pallets made for the purpose. They definately absorbed alot of abuse.

Kid fun. My girls will be very happy to have other kids to play with.

We will be close to the road wherever we end up. Just stop at the truck and yell. Or listen for our squeels of joy.

Bring your kids and go climbing with us. We will be driving a gold F150 SuperCrewCab with topper. No telling where we will camp.

I have always been suspicious of protection at Peshastin. The first time I was there, I put in a large stopper and yanked really hard on it. Both sides of the crack broke out and the stopper almost took out my partner's teeth. No thanks.

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH! That is really cool.

The best climber get 2nds and repeats.

Do the south ridge of Adams without a guide. No crevasses or big dangers except falling climbers. It will give you a chance to use crampons,ice axe, camp in snow etc. Then post on this board in the partner's forum or the Rainier forum. I might be going up in late June or mid July. I already have three trips planned this spring and no room on any of them for another climber. I am not a guide and do not charge. Just get some basic mountaineering experience and there are a few people who would go with you. Otherwise, I have always heard good things about RMI. All guide services have problems. RMI is no exception but seems to do all right.

Back in Montana we used to ride em to the nearest road then plug em before we jumped off.

I still have a tick head embedded in the back of my head. It continues to grow very slowly. It has been about 20 years now and I have become knd of attached to it. I am guessing that if I live another forty years it will be about the size of my nose and will make a great Halloween costume.

A friend of mine went up there two weeks ago. They did the trail from the road. On their way down there were a couple guys shooting into the brush below the road. When my friend pointed out that they were shooting into the lower part of the trail, he was met with total disdain. He left feeling like he was kucky he had not been shot. They continued shooting into the lower trail area.

I skied that snowfield a dozen times and always thought I was hot shit. Then one day, the conditions were less than optimal and I cursed and crashed my way down. It would have been easier to walk but I was determined to prove to myself that I was a skier. Good TR. Thanks.

There was only passive pro when I started climbing (sonny). I have a pretty good selection of technoweeny pieces now but stoppers are still my favorite piece and I often take only stoppers on alpine climbs. Well, I always take a .5 and 1 tri-cam too. And usually throw in a purple camelot. A great alpine rack consists of about 8 stoppers slung on single runners plus a few wires and rabit-runners. The springy cams are great for vertical cracks with parallel walls though.

Wise man.

I will be in Idaho getting powdered on.

Do the couliour on McClellan Butte. It's the next exit past 38 on I90 or take the dirt road off 38 up to where it crosses the trail but then you are cutting off a good 800' of vertical fun. Or do a ridge run from exit 38 up past the overhang past the bridge and into bushwhack central. It gets interesting in places and you can bail into death zones at any point. A rap line and harness is handy. Lots of trees so don't worry about webbing.

I'm taking my chances with Edelweis 60m 9.9 bi-colored dry at $127 with free shipping. I am hoping they don't ship me a pink one as there was no choice offered. I have a 7mm 60m rope for long raps but this rope will mostly be used for glacier this spring and alpine as time goes on. Thanks for all the input and market research.

UBB14-ML-323217-ML-

Need a new rope. Anyone come across a screamin deal lately?

Yeah. I never wear earplugs when I'm packin.

If you need a contest, there's this guy who says he can climb faster than you... Dan Hose-it. Personally, after a few near death experiences, I have become accustomed to living to climb another day. Summits are nice and I visit my share, but it is really being trashed by the mountain occaisionally that makes a summit seem so cool. If I summitted every time, I would look for something more challanging to pass the time.