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Everything posted by Bug
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No. I was just there. It's Squamish Chief. They're getting ready for the 2010 Olympics.
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OK here's the lecture; Raineer is big and bad. There are crevasses on every route and you cannot predict where they will be based on someone else's experience unless you go up there on the same day or right after. The weather can turn ugly fast and give you conditions you would expect in far more exotic places. People freeze to death hanging in crevasses waiting to get pulled out. They are cold cracks in Ice. Willy Usoeld died on the easiest route up there. Don't underestimate it. I envy you going up there for the first time. You will have a blast and be humbled. It passes as you move upward. But looking up from 10k on that first trip is awesome. Take the ropes and pickets and pulleys and make everyone on the team learn how to use them. It will probably be the only time you do but it will save a lot of time if a gaper eats you. Time in a crevass is deadly. Keep your wits. move efficiently and know your plan all the way through. The alternative is nasty.
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I didn't really know Todd but I hung around a campfire with him and the motley winter gang at JT a few times. I don't think I would call this trash since this kind of thing was usually the topic being discussed.
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Thanks Pope. I love stories like that.
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This is a climber's board so take a rope with you for all suggestions you get here. March is early so be ready for deep snow in the Cascades. That is OK if you are ready for it. Snowshoes or skiis will probably be needed for any week long adventure if you are moving 5 miles a day plus or minus. Don't wear cotton as it sucks the heat out of you. Capaliene or Molino wool or one of the newer synthetics are a must next to the skin as the temps drop in the evening and you are all sweaty. The Enchantments loop might be nice but my Flordian girlfriend wouldn't do Asgard pass by herself in the summer much less in the snow. But you could still go up and down the Snow creek trail safely (Asgard pass is at one end, snow creek is at the other). There is no place else. Just kidding. The Enchantments are my favorites for backpacking (and climbing).
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[TR] Peshastin Pinnacles Fantasy Climbs- Various Fantasy Routes 10/21/2006
Bug replied to telemarker's topic in Alpine Lakes
Throwing a dozen testoterone ridden climbers into a single room to debate sensibly is more dangerous than throwing a molotav coctail into the room. Unless there is a bong on the table. -
But if they do the Emmons route it will be too windy................
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Some people climb Rainier just about anytime but this is not a good time if it is a new experience.
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I have the Dynafit MLT's that lace up. They are ice climbing boots that can ski a bit. Very light. Used 4 times. PM me if you are interested.
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Todd used to be the first one up in JT. He'd be doing laps on the ski tracks. Always a kick. RIP.
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Total bummer.
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I've know three people who were accidentally shot as kids by their friends while playing with guns, one through the chest at point blank range; all smart kids with good parents who obviously thought the same damn thing. The statistics here, as compared to incidents of protecting your home from invaders, are grim. Good luck with that. Hope you've got your guns well hidden and locked, but then, you wouldn't be ready when the invading hordes beat down your door, would you? I also hope you're planning on using a shotgun...so you don't wind up shooting someone else's kid (another common occurance). I keep my kids locked up and my guns loaded, cocked, and ready on the coffee table. Drop by sometime. Oh wait, that's not a threat. We can shoot starlings together.
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I left Montana because the rock was too unstable. Take that 200' hand crack immediately around the corner to the right of the sw butt on np. All you have to do is get around the 3000# loose flake at the top. Don't take a belayer you like. And that route on Shoshone was done in Fire's and had to be cleaned. Even the classic Ballard-Evringham route has guano ledge where no man is safe. Those dive-bombing swallows will paste you with malice. It leaves you on a very uncomfortable ledge while they don't even use the front porch size ledge under their colony. Yeah. Go to City of Rocks in Idaho. You don't have to hike anywhere either.
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Don't drink it if you can't see if there's floaters or not.
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Starlings are evil. That's why I own a pellet rifle. A few years ago, my daughter's kindergarten teacher informed us that my daughter said; "Daddy has a gun but he only uses it to kill monster birds and bad people."
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Nice. I wish I could climb it for the first time again. Try Orbit next.
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Photos work if it is easy to get the same angle when you are looking for the route or crag. If it is a jumble and you can mark clear landmarks then I think drawings work best. I like the drawings for Icicle for instancec. City of rocks would be better with photos because it is spread out. Part of JT should be photos but there should be drawings to back them up. Long canyons tend to lend themselve well to photos. Just my .02.
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Well I'm more into goats anyway.
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I think she's hot. So is Mythos girl.
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Anyway, I have a gun and I'm keeping it. So Fairwither can be a wrong as he wants and rant and rave but he still agrees with me.
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Actually, I believe it was liberal judges back in the early 80's that ruled the mentally ill can no longer be involuntarily committed to mental institutions. A violation of their civil rights, ya know. Now we have ten's of thousands of people roaming the streets of this country who, by all rights, should be receiving treatment in an institution. But if its easier for you to blame those evil conservatives, then by all means...... Guess again. Fed funding of state institutions was cut under Reagan during his first and second term and then again completely eliminated under Bush. Right now you can have a direct relative committed if you can prove they are a danger to themselves or someone else. My ex's ex could be committed today if his family would take responsibility and PAY for his entire bill.
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Nice TR! It was like I was there only I wasn't. I sure like my couch.
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OK. I'm a liberal who is mad at the conservatives for de-funding the mental institutions and landing my ex's ex on the streets where he is free to drive without a license and talk to passers by about how 5 evil demons are going to make him kill his own son (my stepson) thereby making it my responsibility to provide for my ex family's defense against a man who doesn't give a rip about laws or reason. Meanwhile, those same "conservatives" are spending all the money they saved by closing the mental programs on invading Iraq and now occupying it indefinately. Today's conservatives are radicals. Yesterday's leberals are toting guns. I say bring back the dope smoking George Bush.
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It ain't mine but its just as dirty. When I was climbing up there regularly, it got cleaned off every year and the path was well beaten down. It was usually a hangout in the afternoon where folks would gather to climb out of the heat and put up a cloud.
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We were there and drank our share. It got late and everyone quieted down and went to bed. There were no keg-stands, song-fests, or fist-fights. I think Carol was dissappointed. It was good to see you guys again. I didn't do any climbing but all in all it was a great time. This was the second year in a row that nobody peed on my tent.