Bug

Beta; From Ingals cross over to Stuart on the ridge and continue up until you can cross over to ANY of the gulleys and head up until you get bored of climbing 3rd class. Then cut right until it gets steep and head up through 5.4 and 5.6 to the notch east of LongJohn tower. Continue East finding the weakest line which will be pretty damn obvious. Have fun.

Or you could post here and see if anyone is willing to "tag along". You might Buy him or her dinner if they pull you out of a crevass.

Adams is a great place to start. The South ridge is crowded but safe and steep enough to give you good crampon experience. If you ski or ride, take em along. You're tent should be alright but but I wouldn't leave my wallet there. There are crevasses as soon as you get off the summit to the north. If you stay away from there you do not need a rope. Enjoy.

A friend of mine took a fall like that when we were in Highschool. She slid down a snowfield and dropped over a series of steps for at least 800 ft. We all thought she was dead and took a little extra time with the guy she hit in the face with her feet when he tried to stop her. He was bleeding profusely from a broken nose. When we started down, we couldn't see her. As we got lower and she came into view, it was surreal. She was sitting on a rock at the very bottom of the alluvial fan at the base of the obvious gulley. She had taken her pack off and was brushing her hair. No broken bones or bad cuts. Just bruised over about 80% of her body. She never climbed again.

Fun read. Nice adventure. I especially like the finish, a bikeride to Peshastin.

Mom?

The ex had the girls and the girlfriend was in AK. Kenp sold me his Rainier climbing pass so I had no excuses left. I got off the couch and into the car with all the aluminum I could gather. My fat ass wasn't hauling much steel anywhere. I hiked up Mt Ruth for something different and was glad I did. It added a little more up and down but it got me away from the crowds. Up and over Steamboat prow and down into camp about 1pm. Steamboat has some nice looking routes on it. You could protect it with fence posts and 30 ft runners easily. Keep your belayer under an overhang. At camp I slept and hydrated for a few hours and then started socializing. I had to find a twosome to hook up with and with my beergut I had to work fast so I didn't have to hold it in so long. No one wants to get dragged into a crevass by John Candy. There was a couple from Denver that took the line about how I used climb a lot. They put me in the lead as a bridge tester and only screwed their locking biners halfway. We got up at midnight after listening to Russian banter all evening. By 12:30 we were slogging. The 3/4 moon was out so we didn't need headlamps and an occasional meteor streaked by to keep us from getting lost in our navels. We passed a few partied here and there and ended up on the summit about 6:30. We wanted to get down before it warmed up much because I still hadn't lost much weight. There was a little balling on the crampons for the bottom 2000 ft but we only pass one bridge that caved in after we passed on the way up. It was a nice weekend. I didn't get many pics because my batteries froze. Besides, with my orange jacket I looked like a pumpkin.

Good pics. Thanks for posting.

We have new shoes. We will find you.

PM me if you are interested. I will move moderately fast. Watch out DH.

I have climbed the steep slab below the roof in all kinds of weather. There are many variations. Enjoy

Have no shame and enjoy your fish dinner. Flies didn't work except in the evening when anything works. They are deep the rest of the day and spinners are are the only way. Or save time and eat kittens. The best fishing is in the first four lakes after Snow lakes.

I climbed the W ridge a few years ago with no pack or rope and it was pretty doable as a semi relaxed pace. The climbing gets boring it is so easy. I traversed right well below LJ Tower and found some nice hand cracks and a few old bivies. Still only 5.6 or so and many choices at that. Descending the same way is pretty easy. If you go down the Cascadian and are going out Windy pass (Is that Windy pass over the fork on the Ingals?) trail or back up to Ingalls, travese right out of the CC down about 2/3 but just above the black tower to the right. It takes you down another gulley that is steeper and drops you on the trail up higher and directly across from Windy pass. Anyway, nice climbing. Have fun!

I am interested in one also. PM me if there are any left.

Scool. Cheers Kurt!

There are permit only sites at the meadows at Ingalls basin and there are outskirts to camp at without permits. But if you go down to the meadows at the base of Stuart you are outside of the permit area. No fires at any site.

I've been out of touch for awhile. Why is Alpinefox's Avatar pink? Oh well. The tallest face in the world before or after the glaciers are melted?

Yes.

My forearms look like that. It's just that its all under an inch of fat.

Wow. The first time I met Dan Mazur was in Missoula in 81. He was looking for someone to help him learn how to climb. I was into the Bitterroot crags at the time and offered to take him along but he said he was more interested in snow and ice. I recommended that he move to WA or CO. The next time I met him was in Seattle at his K2 slide show. He and another guy had climbed it unroped and bivied way up there on the night after summitting. This guy was really into snow and ice.

Actually, I'm only bitter about the way you put down retards.

I'd climb it again. N Ridge in 2 days?

AK, you're more like a hemeroid.

Tough crowd. Especially for a bunch of posers. You don't have to trespass if you can cross the creek without the bridge downstream. Here comes the cat. Start your upwardness left of the main drainage in the first obvious gully that gets you above the first cliff band (up about 800 ft). Then traverse right sidehilling to the rocky bench in the bottom of the drainage (shouldn't have to lose any elevation except when you cross Rat creek). Follow the opening to its close and continue straight up through mellow trees and slabs. When you get to the Talus, bear left and gain the top of the slabs (there is only one easy way (obvious gulley)). Head right up the slabs and bear right to the top of the shoulder. From here traverse down a bit to the bottom of the alder patch where it is much narrower. Cross that and continue up to the base of the cliff. Follow the game path that goes right along the base of the cliffs to the top. Bring me a beer.

Right on AF