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I gave up on page 10. It seemed so much like page 9, 8, 7, 6,...., Bolting sucks. It is not natural. Neither are horses in North America. But it is the horse packers of America who are largely responsible for our wilderness areas being protected. I do not want to see Infinite Bliss repeated on another wall or proliferated on the existing wall. But it will happen. Sport climbers are people who get outside and get counted by the government etc. Some of them even vote. We need more people involved in climbing to be a force that can stand up with the snowmobile crowds and horse packers etc, and get OUR tax dollars spent on maintaining popular access roads and resources instead of bombing Arabs for wanting their fair shair of oil profits. When I said there should be "No bolts west of parking lot wall" in Blodgett canyon, I was dissed by many. "Not enough people get up there" I was told. But there are bolts beside cracks and chipped holds and all kinds of blasphemy up there now. Because not enough people called bullshit. So what the hell am I saying? Here it is; IB should stand but the debate should continue here and elswhere. IB is wrong just like the Compressor route in Patagonia. But people use it and count on it to be there. Meanwhile the world has shrunk and if you get caught bolting another line beside IB you should be trundled. Debates like this one keep the differing attitudes nearer the forefront of peoples' minds and tend to moderate the pace of destruction of places like that. The key is to try to work something out. It will take a long time for sure. But no matter who you are, your nemisis will always be there. All out war, or moderation and compromise?

Sorry. We are now locked in on who is coming. No more changes.

The party is on! It is not clear how many are going yet. At least 3 and maybe 5. If you are all physically ready for Rainier we can still use a third for the second rope. Reply here or PM me.

http://www.bushwhackerclimbingclub.org/

The Bushwhackers club.

I sent you a PM. Bring beer Sunday afternoon if you come. I live in an apt on Lake Sammamish so be ready to swim.

There have been many responders. I prefer to have only 3 on a rope and there are 3 of us now. But there are enough of you out there that are interested to start your own rope. If you want to get yourselves together and meet up at Muir, I will show you what I know about setting up a Z pulley extraction system and other important details for slogging up the DC. You can do this on this route fairly safely since there is a well beaten path to the summit. You do have to have all your own gear and have some reading done but that is probably a given for all of you already. I am not offering to guide you nor even stay with you on the route, just give you some useful tips for survivng on a glacier.

OK. I have riva 1's. Do you want them? Over.

It looks easily passable. Just bring lots of aluminum ladders adn those springy things for your feet. Seriously, I see several routes throught there. But doesn't the route enter the chute below the glacier in the foreground anyway?

I wouldn't use VB barriers for your hands and feet (I've never even heard of them for your hands). Since much of your climbing will be below freezing, a waterproof coating for a sleeping bag is unnecessary - in fact, you want your bag to allow your condensation to escape. The Denali climbing season has 24 hours of light - no one brings a headlamp. Since the pilots do a mass sled carry at the beginning and end of every season, I'd recommend simply bringing a second pair of cheap aluminium ski poles and a bunch of cord, webbing, and bungees to rig a sled at the Kahiltna Airstrip. If your serious about using skies, these boots aren't appropriate, and the One Sports and Spantik won't need overboots. Good post. I agree with everything except the vapor barrier pox. I use vapor barriers and HIGHLY reccommend them. EVERYTHING ELSE is really good advice imo.

What ever you do, don't let anybody talk you out of skiis.

Some interest but still available.

I pm'd ya with Riva 1's.

We could prop a big rock up with a stick over the car and yank it out when they are inside.

I had one pair of Fire's size 8 wmn's for most of the 80's. They worked like Cinderella's slipper. Not sure how many girlfriends used them. Think about it.

Totally cool and totally hot. You go girl. My daughters will be on your site soon.

You might want to be a little more specific about what kind of climbing you want to do. Rainier is a lot of slogging as apposed to rock or steep ice. But there are more interesting routes if you want to push it. North Cascades climbing can be steep ice, steep rock or just steep snow. Are you interested in multi-pitch alpine granite? Alpine ice? Mixed? Just some ideas to kick around.

12 ghu packets. 1.1 oz each Best if used by 2003. Been in cool dry place for "awhile". Free to the first su...., er taker. Come n get m. Yum.

Sweet. Take pictures.

....He said after losing his penis and testicles to frostbite.

I do not mean to dis sirwoofalot in any way because it is personal choice. But, I would not put my 11 yr old daughter in plastic boots and crampons unless she really wanted it. Steel points are painful when inserted into the lower leg. If there has been good weather, there will be a packed trail/trough from Paradise to Muir. There can be crevasses up higher but it is typically not an issue as they are well marked. There was a case in the last couple years where the snow was melting rapidly and someone fell into a crevass below Muir on the trail. It was shallow so there were no serious injuries as I remember. I would keep it simple. Gear she is used to and her feet are comfortable in. Lots of her favorite treats as the 4500 elevation gain is a mood buster. Pack as light as you safely can. I will be up there with my daughter some time this June too. But the 15th is the day of her school carnival. Keep it fun so she wants to come back for more.

I would take the pons just in case. I did, but did not use them. But there is potential for finding hard snow or ice in a couple spots. We did Rainier Wed, Adams Thurs, and were at the base of St Helens Thurs night where it rained hard and long. We were hoping to do St H and then Hood. Whiskey is fine but the shrooms on Rainier were really fine.

Tents are cool. Tents are fun. But now I invest in stocks.

I do like rigid stays. I run a thin cord through 1"pvc tubing and tie the sled ends on the front on each side and the me end to the hip belt on each side. I have skied without them and had a few issues on hardpack.