After scoping out non-existing ice lines on Slesse that were more like icing sugar thrown against the rock, Colin and I decided to do the S ridge of Welch, mainly because it's one of those moderate routes I've always wanted to do but never end up doing in lieu of obscure bush battles.
Horseshoe-up-the-ass part one: forgetting that the spur off Welch is both 4WD and a long way from the lake, just as we were packing up, along comes "Mark" from Abottsford in the full-on Durango offering us the five minute version up to the lake! (Can I still bash Durango drivers now??)
So anyhoo, we bivied at about 4 pm and got about 15 hours sleep in the almost Alaskan light and we get going up hard crampon stuff to the ridge at its very bottom. Most people either do the SE face or only duck into the S ridge at the top cause its pretty monotonous, but I had always wanted to do the full ridge, mainly cause the word "solid" is included in Beckey, a novelty for the region!
The route was pretty straightforward except for one detour to the east and an icy downclimb from the false summit.
Horseshoe-up-the-ass #2: just as we're approaching the summit, we see two guys coming up the SE face. HHmmmm, methinks, a ride down?
Thanks to Dell and Simon for saving us from a brutal walk back down to Foley Lake. Cool route, day trip with 4WD. Go do it.