jordop
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Everything posted by jordop
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The truth comes out! He told me he turned around because it was too hot.... no mention of a forgotten water bottle. You have to keep an eye on those donkeys!
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Paul if yer goin with you know who, makes sure he brings his waterbottle this time
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Check out these Plenty durable, they got em at Coast Mtn. They got the 'Dru' sole too Climbs well.
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Yes, I have/use them. They are distressingly thin, but if you can take the fear factor that any sharp edge will kill them, they're remarkably versatile. At 35 g/m they are about the same weight as ONE 10.5. Ya just gotta be careful with em. I would rather go for an 8 mil setup. Millet makes a cool 8.1 twin setup (though they term it a half rope I use it as a twin) as does of course the venerable Blue Water jobs.
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I drove this road this time last year and got to within one hour (skiing) of the ridge. Easy access to Gari. Good luck on Atwell
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[TR] Squamish - The Squaw- Godforsaken Land 5/15/2
jordop replied to fern's topic in British Columbia/Canada
5 stars for tilt -
Uh I dunno, maybe Most faces are between 2000-2500 feet, but because they face east don't really accumulate sufficient ice
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Climbed the right side of this face yesterday with Steve Harng: Snow to 45*. Nice line, has already been skiied. Some of you may have visited the other side of this peak on the Place Glacier where there is awesome skiing. The potential for large, hard alpine routes in this area is large. Bivy is ONE hour from the car, but timing is essential: TRied to go in with Doolittle in March and there was 5ft powder snow. Went in this weekend and everything was melted out and avalanching. Some other lines in the cirque:
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At last someone is beginning to tap the potential for these types of routes in the Tenaya area. I think, from my meagre observations, that there is a lot more of this sort of thing in the "upper" valley
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Nothing sucks as bad as gettin the rig stuck REAL bad and having to spend three hours digging it out with icetool adzes and jacking up each tire to build a new road out of boulders and smashing your finger between two boulders
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Naw, it's way more fun to have pickets on the side of your pack so that the branches grab and hold you back and then whap the guy behind you
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I'm sorry, what did you say sucked? Oh, your little shoes for walking on snow. Yes, they ARE annoying, aren't they? I hate it when they drag on the ground and then also when they weigh you down SO much
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Photo3: Gatekeeper is rocky thing on right VOC IS OUT OF PICTURE AGAIN on right. Sir Dick out of picture on left. Rain God Mtn and Snowcap/Misty Icefield beyond. Photo4: Bulky thing is actually Nivalis. Sir Dick is *JUST* OUT OF PICTURE again on right. Could be Fire mtn in distance on left, but I'm not sure.
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Oh, and in the first shot the bumps in the middle ground on right on the ridge is the only real crux of the McBride traverse. Icy south facing slopes to travel the ridge to get to south side of Hour. Not that bad though.
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Ahhhhh, the McBrides . . In first shot yer lookin at the Forger glacier, unnamed peaks, but the Forger Gl Spires are clearly visible. Here's another shot that I took from the east: http://bivouac.com/img/photo/1800_forger.jpg Veeocee is out of picture left. Centre is Drop Pass, You can see the wicked run you get going down into it. (and the shitty escape to the Cheakamus )Awesome. isosceles and Parapet on right. Highest point in background is Mamquam (NOT PITT area. Yer looking DUE SOUTH). Huge east facing thing which you can see from a long ways away (ie Joffre) is unnamed sub summit. Second shot is yes, Hour and Minute. Nice look at the north face of Hour. Wicked ski run on the north face there. Cornice usually falls off Mid May. Frickin huge. McBride traverse goes around the other side to meet up with Luxor/Crosscut col. Left of Min Hand is Pyramid, You can see it in first shot on far right too. In first shot Spire Peaks are to the left of Pyramid, with unnamed ridge system north of Mamquam Icefield.
