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Everything posted by tread_tramp
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18 from Vol. 1 and 9 from vol. 2. Don't know about Kearny's list.
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I've been to the summit ridge of mixup, probably fifteen feet from the top. Party dynamics prevented me from finishing the climb. A couple months ago the moat was already presenting a problem. Saturday the ranger at marblemount said that it would present quite an obstacle this time of year. The climbing is not teribly hard. But loose rock is a problem. the last 70 ft before reaching the summit ridge a bit of verticle exposure. And I wasn't solo. Terrible Ted has been up there this year. you might contact him. If you want to do it with a partner this weekend let me know. ralph
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During my first visit to the Temple canyon side of the ridge, We thought we'd climb Temple from the north. When we got to the top we noticed that the next peak up the ridge was higher and therefore must be Temple. So we climbed Razorback spire by accident. That was 16 years ago but it seems the way we did razorback was up an easy ledge, maybe class 4.
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The fodder that fuels the Spray Lords fires.
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There was a register on the summit of the Towers of the Throat Gripper put there in an old amo box by the Mazamas in '68. Somebody got the name of the peak officially changed to Hinkhouse Peak and sent the old summit register back to the Mazamas.
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The place in Freemont does good work and is reasonable. It's called Northwest Garment and Gear. I've had a number of things patched there, jackets, packs rainpanse. The person who does the work there on climbing gear worked for a place that used to be a couple doors up the street called Hemigear and later called Dr. Zipper. I recomend the place.
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I have no current conditions to report as it has been years since I last climbed Thompson. But as to a water source, you do pass between a couple lakes a short ways before you leave the crest trail to cross the boulder strewn bowl just below the start of the climb. I believe the lakes are called Ridge Lake and Gravel Lake. The first time I did the west ridge route we did it car to car in a day. But the other time we spent a night by one of these lakes.
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Erden, Do you Need a FB route description to find this place? Be sure to look for the obvious gully before attaining the ridge crest. Maybe it will be in Nelson's next book
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Chimney Rock's got my number. I'll get it someday though. klenke, Jack shot me down last year. Let me know when your third attempt goes. I'm thinking Crater Mtn. approach next time instead of by way of Little Jack.
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Even Tom Morgan took a day and a half. One day is verging on insanity. Where's thie fun in that kind of blitz?
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Trask is a queen.
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whiplash, it sounds like you stayed on the south side of the ridge spur that heads from gunsight notch up to the flat shoulder. if you start just 30 ft past the col the climbing is not very difficult and sends you more directly up the route. although it starts a little harder than 100 ft down, it never gets as hard as what you described. nothing eliminates the loose rock. that just has to be looked out for.
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i once hiked with a guy who said the bugs had an aversion to the high dosage of lithium he took for his bi-polar condition. at least ther was one good side effect.
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I lost a little Swiss army type of knife this weekend somewhere in the vicinity of Mix-up peak, probably just before where you get onto the Cache glacier. Booty for the next guy!
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mid august, ten years back, did a summit bivy on the north peak; so much for 'car to car' in a day. we were late coming out our second day. it's the only alpine summit that i've had the pleasure of bivying on. pay close attention with a backward glance as you go up. we lost some time backtracking on the way down, uncertain that we were on the right route.
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Ted, I was up there with JoeK this weekend. A 30 ft. chunk of rope anchored to a picket would easily get you in and out of the moat. A couple years ago I climbed the east face with very similar conditions at gunsight notch. The snow finger is getting thin at the top and will no doubt deterioate more in this heat. Becky also tells of a north ridge route that avoids gunsight notch, although I have no experience with that route. ralph
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A few years back I did the East Buttress route as a big M mountaineer. I understand that it is a little more challenging than the NE ridge. The worst part was the chossy rock. It was little more than a scramble though. I think that I only placed a piece or two on the whole route. Don't even consider the walk up route for the ascent. You would find it quite boring. I understand though that if you catch it right, it's a great route to glissade down.
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I don't know whether tumbling headlamps are part of the 'Muir On Saturday' phenomanom. But two guys I spoke with at the Muir hut yesterday morning claimed to have seen the headlamps of falling and tumbling climbers above 13k on the DC route. One set of lights appeared to have fallen towards the Emmons Glacier before vanishing. And a set of headlamps, which appeared to be a team going to assist the first fallen climbers, fell towards the DC route before vanishing, presumably into a crevasse. As we were getting up yesterday morning, with plans to move our camp to Ingraham Flats, we saw a mass exodus of climbers returning to Muir with reports of fallen climers high on the mountain. As the morning progressed there were conflicting reports of the route being closed, Rangers turning people back above 13k, and the route being open. An army helecopter spent a significant amount of time scanning the upper slopes. But it seems nobody has been found. There was some talk of it being a false alarm. The witnesses seemed pretty certain of what they had seen. Hopefully they were mistaken. Ralph
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As a clueless sixteen year old who had been hiking a few years, my first ascent was up St. Helens, eleven years before it blew it's top. I think we skirted to the right of the Dog's head and then generally just went up.
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we stole one this weekend in the entiat mountains. climbed fernow on saturday and got rained on for just the last six minutes of our walk back to the trailhead this morning.
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Went up Fernow from Leroy Basin saturday. This is a good non-technicle climb. The snow was in great shape for cramponning in the morning and actually stayed fairly hard for our early afternoon descent. The summit affords a grand view of Maude's north side where we saw a pair of climbers about mid way up the north face. Great view of Bonanza as well.
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In Sept '90 I climbed Constance by the NE Buttress. Our approach started at the end or the North Fork Tunnel Creek road. It was rather a bushwack but back then it was flagged. One member of our party kept referring to the approach as the 'green hell of Tunnel Creek'. WE did a carryover and descended a scree choked gully on the SE side of the mountain. If you want any particulars of our route pm me; I kept a few notes. [ 07-13-2002, 07:54 PM: Message edited by: tread tramp ]
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Huh, oh; is that what it means?
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Just a few weeks ago Joe and I did Colchuck Peak together. It was great because, as it tuned out, both he and my friend Rod, who was along, were rabid Wings fans, both having grown up in Detroit and having gone to the same catholic high school. the rapartee was both crass and entertaining. Joe said that was just his third alpine climb. So this ascent of Stuart is much to his credit. Nice going Joe.