Farrgo

Jason's route sounds like a gem. I wouldn't have thought that those mountains would have any significant ice features. The rock is really solid though, probably just a little bit of ice would make for a scrappy adventure.

Twin Sisters are fun and you can pretty much climb something on them in just about any weather conditions. I've never heard of any ice climbing out there... but mabey Dave knows something I don't. This is on N Twin above the obelisk? (can't remember what that feature is called).

I'll be heading to UT right around that time as well. Shoot me a pm and we'll set something up...

The Metolius Monsters are listed as doubles, but the metolius website shows data for using them as doubles and as twins? Are they dually rated?

I've been using that same system... a heavy sock, a liner sock and superfeet for all my alpine trips. I've never gotten blisters or had any issues. For very cold temps and altitude I've been going with a vapor barrier as well. I used turkey cooking bags this year in Peru and it kept my heavy sock and boot liner dry. Also they've been very durable so far... I used one pair of turkey bags for several multiday climbs.

Check out Alpine Dave's website www.alpinedave.com. He has a description of how to make them.

Since your in Bozeman you should be able to get into the canyon and bum rides on your friends's tools. This is the best way to figure out what you like. If alpine isn't your game than I would look seriously at the reactors, fusions (if you ad hammers and laser picks), ergo quarks, and nomics. IMO these tools with fully ergonomic handles are less pumpy than retro-jobs and a couple of them are a huge step up in m-ability.

I had a good day on these about four years ago. Get before the snow hits because its probably the best ice you'll see in the immediate area this winter.

Bad ass

hyperspace?

I've tried a couple of the Vancouver walls. Not worth swimming through the hordes of 3 year/olds and soccer moms. Not even to mention that the walls really don't provide that much interesting or challenging climbing. You get more bang for your buck at the PRG or Stoneworks or Clubsport IMO.

http://www.rei.com/product/746019

I used leathers when I was there a few years ago. They were fine except on the high south faces, where I actually got a little frostbite. I'm going with plastics this time. I'm not sure what your objectives are but I would definately recommend plastics unless you plan on doing warm climbs.

I've used the whole plastic carton with zip ties rig. It works better than nothing at all but much worse than the manufactured models.

To elaborate on avalanche conditions. PC is a avalanche prone route and there is definately need be safe up there. It was quite warm the previous day. However, there was a freeze overnight followed by a cold cloudy day with no wind. So I'd say conditions were pretty good the next day. The day after Polar Circus we went up to look at Murchison falls and stood in the woods as avalanches/enormous spindriffs rumbled off the cliffs around the climb. Wouldn't have been on anything with avy danger that day. This time of year in the Rockies weather and conditions are very ephermal and you need to constantly aware of changing conditions. Of all the time I was up there, the day I was on PC was the only one I thought was acceptable for climbing in avy terrain.

Climbed it on Sunday. It's in great shape still. It starts getting sun in the early afternoon so start early.

Chad and I were the Oregon party. We got up to the base of the headwall but not with enough time to finish. Bring snowshoes.

Definately don't follow that. I keep all the hardwear with the picks. Haven't yet had the washer fail before the pick is toast.

I was down there a couple days ago. You can drive down the Cape Horn RD? Its the first road on the right (heading east) immediately after the upper tier climbs. However, there is a sign posted that says parking anywhere on this road is high discouraged (whatever that means). Probably the best strategy is to park further back and just walk along the rails like the guidebook indicates, might be a bit of a walk though.

Do you know Dave Goldring? He also lives in N. Bonneville and climbs.

There's plenty of ice out there. Just need to head out and do some exploring...

Linking all the spires at WA Pass in a day is a fun one.

OP came out with a new line of screws recently. I used there old ones (black hanger) and hated them. But there new ones (gold hanger) are pretty good, comparable with the BD screws.

I've never climbed Cooper Spur but I have gathered from others' experiences that, although not a technically difficult descent, it can be dangerous especially up high with bad snow conditions. I'm not sure how easy it would be to reach Cooper Spur from the North Face gullies. I thought it was odd because I initially assumed that they meant, upon summiting, they would descend the Cooper Spur if conditions were bad, which didn't make any sense. Other than the note on the car and the brief interaction my buddies relayed to me, I can't say anything that will benefit this discourse. That being said, let's hope this weather window gives the rescuers an opportunity to find all three of them safe and sound.

dmuja I can speak of A-F as I was with Donn V on Thursday. I saw their vehicle parked at the Tilly Jane Sno Park with a note explaining their plans and why they had not purchased a snow-parks permit. The note indicated that they were going to sleep on route but it seems they decided to stay at the Tilly Jane cabin. I did not actually talk to them, I skied by the cabin and noticed somebody was there, while Donn stopped in to retrieve an item. The note said they planned to descend the south-side and then pick up the vehicle after the road (HWY 35) was opened on Saturday. Also, the note indicated that they would descend the Cooper Spur route in an emergency, which seemed an odd choice, but like I mentioned I never talked to them about it. I can't speak for g), but I think I recall something about that in the note. I believe the second note was found in the guest register of the Tilly Jane cabin.