Farrgo

I know this one for sure... but I'll hold off since I got the last one.

First 5 feet of CBR?

FYI there is a wasp nest on Windsurfer. It's located in a finger crack on the right side at the final bulge.

Bump. Don't make me go to the gym!

Anyone want to hit up Beacon on Thursday? I can climb anytime that day. -Nate (360) 903 7370

Looking to rideshare to Yosemite/Sierra eastside Leaving August 1, returning August 10-12 (negotiable) Live in Portland, OR Will be driving soccer mom mini-van that gets low 20s -Nate

Climbed this route yesterday. Came in from Teanaway. No crampons needed, trail is essentially snow-free until the glacier and Cascadian is about half snow. Missed the first pitch apparently. Climbed a very difficult, mossy straight-in finger crack but reached the base of the perfect corner just fine. The perfect corner is great but apparently Kearney put up the route with a 15m rope because we linked those three pitches into one pitch. Don't go too high on the corner, the crack ends and you'll be a long way up with no pro. P.S. there is a micro stoper and biner way up there if someone wants some booty. All in all the pitches near the corner are great and everything else is just so-so. Took doubles from green alien to red camalot and singles in blue alien, #2, #3, and #4 camalots. Seemed to be the perfect rack. Used just about everything each pitch.

I think the sun hits the wall at 2pm. Get to the chimneys by then and you'll be plenty high to not suffer too much.

The bar at the Overland Lodge has pitchers of microbrew for $6.25 and pints of Coors (for non-NWeners) $1. Food is the usual bar variety.

JosephH, I can't tell where it originated from, but I guess it was from above the standard SE start. I saw a couple volleys of rock come down and they all landed beyond the trail away from the tracks. Pretty good sized rocks too, wear your helmet.

I can vouch for the rockfall issue. Climbed Cruising to the Corner earlier today and saw quite a bit of rockfall coming off to the West. Of course, there were a couple climbers out and they might have been trundling... not sure.

Pretty sure there's no issue 13. Probably will have a hard time finding that one.

Got to take a break sometime... but always Blanca dreaming.

FYI I guess the Blanca rules that got introduced last year are being enforced this year. Join the AAC.

Pretty sure I have one.

There is sooo much snow this winter... a couple of days in the 90s will hardly make a dent.

I think all the upper anchors on Jensens ridge are old. Of course mabey its just hard to find them in the poison oak.

I'll be there.

I love Beacon but it doesn't quite match up to Index or Squamish. Mostly thats because those areas have 10-1000x the amount of climbs. Pitch for pitch Beacon is as good of value as any area around. If you can climb 11a, you'll be busy for many weekends.

I'm trying to climb at Ozone Tuesday afternoon. I can be there by 2. Should be great. -Nate

There really aren't that many good areas around bellingham (within 30 minutes). Erie is just far enough that you're not gonna run out there for a few laps. Larabee stuff is fun for a bit, but you'll burn out there soon. Governor Lister cliff has some routes, but there not all that impressive. Sehome Hill has bouldering. Aside from those you could hit up the Bat Caves, but that's pretty much a day trip, or Baker Crags.

IMO the new cobras are the best alpine tools on the market right now. They're lighter than quarks, perform at the same standard, and the pick drop is more condusive for lower angle alpine ground (albeit at the expense of hooking). That being said I still use quarks, with the grip rest. I've never found any reason to take it off, if the snow is hard enough that you can't plunge with it, than its hard enough to use high dagger position. Also, I really like the umbillical set up. One bonus of this system that isn't talked about enough is that you will never drop those tools when there hanging around at belays, clipped to your harness on rappells, etc.

RocNoggin, It kinda depends on the year. The best month to climb in probably July. But people show up in May and leave in September. Last year held the ice on North Faces and ephermal lines for much longer than normal, and the south faces hadn't set up by the time I left, August 1. I came down for the month of August several years prior and found great conditions on South Faces and of course all the usual suspect mountaineering routes were hanging out. Weather should be perfect. I think I had three days of bad weather that August.

Which tricams do you have? I'm looking for pink and red, and the enormous yellow one. If you've got em, I want em.

Has anyone done any of the traverses down there Pallisades, Evolution? Worth doing if you just had a week there? Is it even possible to get a Whitney permit if you haven't reserved one way in advance?