Szyjakowski

man almighty...bolting is such a simple endeavor: if there is no safe gear placements within climbing reach...ie. widget placement in a horizontal crack, seam, flare, etc. then... dont place the bolt...as for the tr on alpha rock (which my buddy bolted last year), is it really worth the trouble to remove...isn't the lead still topropable? Perhaps removing all the bolts on the cracks of Condor would be a better timewaster instead of climbing. Replacing old time bomb bolts is a Very GOOd idea but trying to find out if joe smoe's tr is ok to bolt...come on, get real...topropes certainly are meant to stay tr's for a reason, unless of course the only way up to set up the tr is some scary, loose, avalanche gully or goat trail past snake dens. Then doesn't making the tr a lead route seem legit. Btw check out whoopsie pillar near sam hill...not a tr since three years ago (but be prepared to place gear too), also some good trad lead to the left...and a project variation tobe finished someday. Remember unless you can't see bolts all the way to the anchor taking a few widgets and nuts with you could prevent the ground fall and in leavenworth many bolted routes are mixed leads (and i don't mean with Ice)...why didn't god make more continuous crack systems in ltown, the world may never know. But seriously, cliffs less than one pitch are not always sport climbs... and thats my $4.19 worth...anyone got a penny??? (<-me drinking margarritas tomorrow and the next day and the next...etc)

wow..good thing i am outa there and going to mexico...Please mountaineers---use the established trails...no more new paths to the crags and don't forget to leave lots of booty happy fourtwenty allyou partakers

quote: Originally posted by Colin: I'll be looking at Colleges in California with my dad next week, and we'll spend the last two days in J Tree. I don't have guidebook, so I plan on just poking around and climbing whatever looks good. I assume that for most stuff there I'll be able to get by with a single 50m rope - or am I wrong? one 50m will be fine...60mbetter. People around will have books to look at and ample beta. Remember it is one of the most popular places in the usa to go climb on "dirty little pebbles"

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quote: Originally posted by Uncle Tricky: Yup, as others have said, Peshastin is open for biz. Got fumigated there early this week. As we were up on the rock, they started spraying the orchard next door. A strong westerly wind coated us with a white, bitter-tasting fungi-herbi-insecticide powder. Probably not too healthy, but it cleared my flea and tick problem right up! Most likely was bentonite...the same stuff that makes all the orchards the white crack like color [ 04-12-2002: Message edited by: Szyjakowski ]

death valley...racetrack playa...takes some time but, they move sort of slow. Ever seen badwater...sick microbes eating salty piss

quote: Originally posted by chucK: Too late dude. I went up there yesterday and stole all the hangers. just like at vantage huh?!?

quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: You're probably right. Now that I think of it, the worst I ever had was still pretty damned good. But would they share? get your own cobras beyotch...specialed-coltrane would byte roxy in halferik-you are so gay like rayhey viktor- for your new guidebook you should say the only crag in leav worth the walk is snow creek crag...the others are way too scary and theres even no trail... everyone else should just stay in colorade otherwise try something else like basketweaving...lessons consult retroweakous...he's a pro... [ 04-10-2002: Message edited by: Szyjakowski ]

quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: Passing someone without their consent isn't really possible on Crimson Chrysalis. . bullsheit...i did it my self...at least on the third or forth pitch...

quote: Originally posted by klenke: It might be hard to visualize the irony without the cartoon to visualize. dude go back to pluto just joking...that was a funny strip..me remember

quote: Originally posted by erik: I GUESS i should mention alllll the ticks...think ticks think ticks think ticks!!!!!!!!!! i hate those blood thirsty bitches...they swarm you on all those belay ledges and make the outing such misery. if the view wasn't so goood i would probably never inflict such menace to myself...and by-the-way...cappellini's dog is a scary wolf in disguise...ever watch bugs bunney show??

kindly say excuse me we are going to pass you...if they give ya a hard time just clip there anchor and keep climbing...simu climb to the next anchor and piss on the route below you

quote: Originally posted by goatboy: I wanted to see if anyone out there has any routes to recommend on Chablis Spire. I saw a slide show recently which got me interested, but I don't remember which route was featured in the show. The rock looked great, however. I have Beckey's bible, but wanted to get some input outside of his descriptions, as well as some evaluation of the quality of the routes (something Beckey's book is often lacking). Any beta on route choice, recommended gear, etc is welcome. Thanks in advance. Steve pm retrosaurous...i am pretty sure he did it about 5-6years ago

quote: Originally posted by Dru: so is the nonwall a wall, spire, or what? it is a wall (but just a little one compared to the chief)

quote: Originally posted by erik: EVEN WITH ALL THAT DAMN WIND!!!??? what wind

the top of the cobra

quote: Originally posted by Paul detrick: But I would not want to be there tomorow,the people were all ready showing up when I left. yeah take a number...hey i heard someone just bolted a crag near dayton...100 5.10s,50 5.11s, few 5.12s..much potential...and all sweet overhanging choss...anybody got more beta

quote: Originally posted by icegirl: Omak!?!?? have you actually lived there??? you got something against rednecks or indians or organized militias?!? Real Americans in an american setting...

quote: Originally posted by projecthex: doesnt it have pass in the name? so does blewitt..so what your point

quote: Originally posted by projecthex: snoqualmie pass is the place to live, you never have to go over a pass to get anywhere in the state, unless its blewett, buts that not a real pass anyway. i make the short drive to cle elum every week for gas and groceries and that keeps the cost of living down. are you calling snocrumy a real pass???

quote: Originally posted by rayborbon: Bite me loser hope to with you this weekend

quote: That would be mitch the bitch better known as retro-ball-less KISS IT[/QB] ever tried shrinkn ball disease...the man you call mitch the bitch led it after jim drilled the only bolt on the route...and he didn't use the cheater bolt...who's ball-less?? iam confused on your slander towards one of soundest pure mountaineers there is in this state. you and all the rest of the babies take note here: get a life man/woman and quit bitchen about removing bolts next to cracks...thats why you all might own cams...to put in the cracks....or did they teach that at the gym? Before any of you know it, drill might be outlawed not only in the wilderness...then what to do???Remember don't be afraid of your friends...they are around to save your arse.Marty...you nailed the point I was trying to make...the hoards gather around the bolts. I am not saying they are bad...really i guess i should have just said think before you drill and change the rock forever. and to all you sport climbers out there...isn't it great that you have to rely on someone elses thinking about where safe protection is located. ooops, I guess max already reenlightened the world of mitch's abilities. [ 04-04-2002: Message edited by: Szyjakowski ]

quote: Originally posted by rayborbon: You guys are funny chest beating with all these photos.. There are endless crags out there. You think your crags are gems and they might be but they way you go about it is more childish than spray Tons of shit like them in the Icicle just nobody wants to walk.. Shut up ray leavenworth sucks

quote: Originally posted by KeithKSchultz: Hmmmmm...... Have we found the ellusive hanger theif? Erik, there is a guide book for the coulee. People are arriving in hoards compared to 10 years ago and their numbers will continue to increase. Deal with it. There was a guidebook ten years ago too It was green and called the Washington Desert by John Eminger. its not the books that bring the hoards; its the bolts...look at any climbing area in general...before bolts, no crowds...after bolts, crowds....just like smithHowever, Charlie is right the rap stations that are there minimize the impact on the delicate desert landscape and should be there...just don't put bolts next to existing crack lines. Like Red M and M's and yes erik is a nice guy even though he is a red head freak [ 04-01-2002: Message edited by: Szyjakowski ]

quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: Hey Jakoffski,I was not the one in the bay area grabbing somebody's boulders. Did they moan when you pulled on them? hey retrowhimpgo jump in a lake you wannabe Bay area does suck for boulders but not all the prette girlies...and btw...will be calling you to kick your ass next tuesday.leaving cali tomorrow