BigWave

Hey eastside bretheren, including Sobo. The weather report is calling for dropping freez levels, (down to 500') later this week. So I was wondering what you thought the FR 19 things would do. Will they look like something reminisent to Lowe's Gorrillas in the Mist? Whatcha think? Hope that hangover passes like this warm front, quickly. Cheers

She's flowin, and growin!!! Glad we trudged in to dial the approach. Man it's going to be fun later! Props to the volume of screams from Jwoo at the top of the ledge.

Yeah, so much for Bob's "they keep this thing open 'til everything's messed up, w/ like 20 cars in the ditch"

No snow on the Tieton road. No snow on any of the roads for that matter.

Hey Mountie, I was just wondering if you had a couple of routes on your list. Jugahaulics? Sam's crack? Sam's sandwich? Edges and Ledges? Nickles and Dimes? Drop me a line if you need any more info. Is there anywhere that I could check out what you have info on already? Hope all is going well on your project.

Cavey, Gotta give ya props for watchin the weather. I think it's a good call. Already have plans to be up there on the marrow. You should post a couple of pics for the nay-sayers.

We got a chance to see it in Oly Fri night. Great skiing!!! Sick terrain.. There is a segment on Europe due to the nasty season last year. Heli served Haute Route!!

We would be stoked to have you guys come down to Olympia. The buzz from the new book is building. Should I contact you directly or go through Mountaineers books? PM me and let me know what's up. Love the guide guys. Jwoo and I checked out the approaches to Strobach yesterday (even though we probably should have been climbing on Goose Egg, beaty of a day.) Let it freeze, Let it freeze, Let it freeze!!!

Take a piece of closed cell foam pad and roll it.. drop it in... and shazam... youve got some form to the pack. Pack light good brother..

Good luck Geordie. I guess you may have to make some freinds with DOT folks.. or just flash your badge and say its official bussiness.....man this sucks no 20!!

"and you could never talk to them? this sounds like there is an interesting story or head butting behind it all - dish! Ditto Dru. Thanks for the story. Answers my question. Bring on the Artic air!

One more kudos post. Really great job you guys. I'm hoping that the emphasis on sharing info will help us continue to get conditions reports to really maximize our adventures. Thanks again eveybody that helped out. One question though, why is it that the climb on the cover didn't make it into the guide. The credits say the the cover photo is A.S. on Flight to Mars, but the route is no where to be found in the text. Any info? Thanks again.

Ok we'll slow it down a little. The reverso has two clip points, the one that connects to the rope while rappelling & belaying, and a second which you clip to the anchor while belaying a second, leaving the 'biner that is connected to the rope free to auto lock. When I rappel with the device I clip it into my harness through the rope. If you try this orientation with it clipped to your harness it will not auto lock. Then your other option is to clip the exterior loop to yourself and let the rope connecting 'biner to be free. It will autolock in this orientation but it does not feed smoothly. The weight of the line will softly lock the device and you will then manually feed it, if that is what you want....good luck either way

Yep I can still fit a twig through the hole in my septum!!

For those of you who haven't seen the reverso, it is a basic ATC, bisected with another plate. So you clip in the reverso to you harness, run both top ropes through, and then clip another locking biner' into the bisecting plate. This makes the ATC into a auto locker. Thus, when climbing, and you fall, it locks up. to go again all you need to do it continue upward. Turns out i obviously bailed on smith today, but am going to go fuck around at skinners butte, and play around with the system. The trick with the auto locking part of the reverso is that it is designed to be auto locking if both rope ends hang down...(like when youre at the top of a pitch and belaying seconds) I would think if you are rope soloing the mechanics of the reverso or any other auto locking tuber device..(b52 etc) wouldn't function correctly. The minitraxion on the other hand might be just the ticket fot the kind of rope soloing youre talking about.. its the shit for crevasse rescue and bag hauling too.

Man I love the Bugs

Earlier this season, before the Farwell fire grew to epic porportions. Some freinds and I went up to climb Cathedral Pk. in the Pasayten. Cruised into the Mine day one...then climbed the NE ridge of Cathedral to check the descent for the SE Butt. Day three we planned to do a couple routes on the Monk and then move to the SE Butt on Cathedral... well we chose to hop on Petronius on the Monk. A beatiful looking crack line with a mysteriuos "hanging flake" near the top. The climb was great, some wide thrutching, a small hand crack, some blocky cruising...and then into the "belay cave." At the cave I got onto the wall and couldn't find the "hanging flake" I tried then to find a way through the boulder choked roof of the cave.. What a bitch that was! After trying to pretend I was Wolfgang Gullich I had to lower back out of the roof of doom.. and that sent me back to the face. After trying to muster all of my manlyness I got onto the face 7' over a .75 horizontal camalot in a grainy flairing shallow crack I was hosed..no where to go.. I couldn't find the line. I couldn't even make an aid move.. There was just a yellow stain that looked like the rock had been recently exposed to the air, possibly the past home of the "hanging flake" ? Then we bailed. Four raps back to the gulley and we were spent. We bagged the SE Butt. The fire started getting closer, and we left just as they were closing all the trailheads that access the Chewack R. drainage. Anyway has anyone done this route and have any idea where I went wrong? Is the flake still there and I was just too low and pussed out?

The first time I climbed the Tooth an old school bad ass pulled the rack from his pack.. half a dozzen slings and a single small cam.. then I wondered ... am I about to climb with some oldschooler with more balls than brains? It turned out that for him it was the perfect rack. He had climbed the tooth every year for the last 27 years. Soloed it a number of times. He is a a real stud and he'd never try to tell ya he is.. He lets his actions speak... BTW isn't it just wealth redistribution when large wallet, large rack gumbies leave their gear on moderate routes? Just to be plucked from the stone later by someone with a little more time and a nut tool....

I have too agree on the Easy-G, theyre the bomb- just make sure they work with your shafts....I've had trouble with the robos...

Haven't we already gone aver all the inappropriate things Jesus is doing in these statues? My vote is Becky followed by Pete Doorish, Skoogs, winter hardmen and the like.. To the next generation..

You'll definately find both making their way through Olympia....

"Just one more fat line would kill this headache. Anybody have a straw?"

I heard there was a few models prancing around Bridgecreek c.g.... something about a photo shoot? Hope you all had great scenery..

Nice work Slaps! Were ya on the clock on this one? Sorry we missed ya on the weekend of the fourth up on the Basin. Did you get to respond to the accident near Logan that weekend?

Thank Slappy! You are doing us gapers a true service by providing useful info to the climbing community. You should be proud to call yourself a ranger!! It really helps me sleep well at night knowing that some of my taxes go to something I give a shit about... thanks....one of these next time I catch up with ya