b-rock

Anyone used a Petzl Shunt for top rope soloing? That's what a local climbing shop recomended, but I'm not sure I trust that advice...

...as noted on the GPNF website, the Smith Butte Sno-Park is not really open - as it is blocked by snow about 2 miles short on 82. This sunshine may change that though...

Check http://www.fs.fed.us/gpnf/, follow the link to Mt Adams Climbing Report. Road 82 is blocked by snow 10 miles from Cold Springs. Smith Butte SnoPark is the closest SS access, still reasonable.

I like the M2 because it has one of the longest ranges, plus a digital numerical readout that tags the burial distance to the meter when close. The analog signal 'beep' is great for multiple burials and checking against the digital readout. Also, the transmit rate is slightly faster than most other beacons, making it easier to be found. I've done a bunch of practice with this and a friend's Tracker. If you play and practice with it the M2 rocks. If you only go out every now and then, I recomend the Tracker because it is EASY.

Yes neither. Ortovox M-2.

Yeah, he seems quite approachable. We chatted for a couple minutes after the show, but I had to run. Bet he would be up for some brews...

[ 03-20-2002: Message edited by: b-rock ]

Just a clarification, which Jim made early in his presentation - it's really just twenty-one years of mountaineering, and is really just Alaska as in the Moose's Tooth. As stated on the other Bridwell thread, it is a comparison of two climbs on the east face in winter '80 and summer '01. Not sure where that other description came from, but it was applied to the show I saw as well. That said, y'all should go, t'was fun.

Fun slide show. Caught it here in Portland at the Mazamas clubroom (ack) sponsored by Climb Max (word). Truely a burley guy. A little tough to follow, but the pics were sweet. Bring him a laser pointer, it was dumb luck that someone in the audience had one. Recomended if he's continuing his tour...

Cody - They're two different places, I think. Don't know where Pete's Pile is. Illumination Rock is on the south side of hood, NW of the top of the Palmer lift. I think I saw you in the Ski bowl lodge on Sat? We were talking about ice off the main run and further up past Tom Dick and Harry? Glad you had fun. I know I had a blast in all that Outback pow.

Tad - The typical winter route is via the Worm Flows from the Marble snow park. Usually plowed in the morning, but may be some time after a snowfall. Once above treeline the route is relatively straightforward up the various ridgelines to the summit. Yes, watch for avy danger, all the usual warnings apply. Have fun, might see you on Saturday.

quote: Originally posted by James: just about every crevasse i've ever walked to has appeared to be easy to walk into walking out of a crevasse, well that's a different story Right, well walk into, not fall into...

Sort of on topic, where's a good spot on Hood or Raineer to practice, for those learn-it-yer-selfers. Obviously we must wait for spring, but where have y'all found a few crevasses that are easy to walk to and easy to walk into?

Heinous you're a dumb fuck.

Anyone climbed this? I'm curious about the exposure. From Oregon High it looks like a pretty basic slog up the ridge until just short of the summit where it skirts a buttress. I'm looking to do a ski of Middle and South Sister before the road opens up; this route is the most direct. Thanks.

Fastest annoying way I can find is 84 to exit 16, left at the UHaul. Still sucks.

I will only climb Hood via the Hogsback or Leuthold Couloir. All the other routes are too hard to warrant discussion here.

AlpineK - I think the studies have been done, at least by Avalung for what that's worth. They note it has been proven in 'supervised burials'. Not sure how they went about that (tossing snow on someone with a shovel would be a bit different than the concrete that forms around you. Carl - From what I've heard, even in very wet avalanche debris, there's plenty of air content. The concern about being able to move your lungs in and out seems valid. But the whole idea of the avalung is simply to move the CO2 that is exhaled away from the intake area. Besides trauma, most complete buriel victems die from asphycsiation (sp).

Snowman - can you breathe through it normally?

Moron - My concern exactly. How 'bout a combo avalung / snorkle for those deep deep powder days? Then you can breath on the way down and you've got it in place if you get buried.

As per styrofoam vs. not, it depends on the helmet. For climbing the styros are light and comfy, but can not take a lot of abuse. For riding or skiing, I think the benefits of the styro go much further, in that they do a hell of a job protecting your noggin for that really big pop.

As stated somewhere above, I think its good to make a distinction between the junior and senior guides. My experience with RMI is that the senior guides know their shit and seem to enjoy it. Junior guides, while certainly capable do tend to lack experience and training. I remember talking to one of the juniors about what it takes to get the job. I don't recall exactly, but I remember her telling me that they must come with first aid training (WFR?), but the rest of the training is provided. Most of the senior guides I spoke to seem to have gotten their training elsewhere, and certainly had the miles under their belt. So I think the earlier comment is right on - try to find out what types of guides are assigned to your climb. The two-day summit climbs for instance have a high percentage of juniors. Not sure about the other programs.

Here's a link to an article with an Avalung success story. http://www.couloirmag.com/articles/news/avalung_saves.asp I had never heard of a real burial where this thing worked, but apparently in this case it did. Hmmm.

Big Wave - I think anytime after the road past Ducthman Flats opens up. That will probably be around June. Of course then you'll have to contend with the hundreds of people going up the south side every weekend. Still a fun descent.

Got the cash? Go for it. Easy way to learn and top notch instruction. That is so long as you are talking about their five or six day programs. Two day summit climb is a completely different story. Just not the most economical way to learn...