IceIceBaby

I really don’t know what the big deal with Arc’teryx their staff it is good as any out there but their costumer service is WORST then most I like Cloudveil with their semi sane prices and the TNF b/c no one think they “Fashionable”, “Climber build´ and “Really bad quality” clothing (what a horse shit) all contributing to a lower price for top of the line product (ehh…fashion…trend) also low alpine is great their product is just bomber although a little heavier So the way I see it Arc’teryx is an OK product line for the masochist clientele

Anyone going??? mind taking me with???

Anyone, to play close to home (snoqualmie)

In the Gunks I had breakfast with Dick Williams, Peter Dermi and Russ Calhoun In the Titoune we had dinner with Jim McCarthy In my old apartment in NYC Craig Luebben stayed over and the next day I met with Chris Sharma, Tommy Caldwell, and David Graham In NYC I met David Bowie, Iman, Sting, and LL cool J, P daddy and J Lo, Adam Sanders, Ben Stealer, Eddy Murphy Also came in to my party, Leonardo de Capprio, Dr Dre Those just some, I cant remember all

Depending on your body type…that’s is why I say… FIT…different manufactures different fit…is Scarpa better or worst then La-Sportiva Think, think, think full page in climbing, rock&ice and alpnist mag', sponsored events, High cost (only the chosen one can afford...psychological game…. if it is soooo overly expensive, it must be GREAT....) to this I say BULLSHIT!!!!! Where do you think is the HIGHEST markup of the outdoors industry Nah man, You just a lost sole caught in the PR and marketing spider web

AHHHHH….PR at its best….what a load of CRAP!!!! They all the same it is all matter of preferences and what fit you pocket GTX - XCR is the same on all garments with its certificate no difference in manufacture That’s is why they give the PR companies the big $$$ so someone will make statements like this Only things to consider for me are material properties, fit, weight, and cost (which can vary within the same manufacture) the rest is inflated bells and whistles tag (u see someone got to pay the PR bill... )

The reason I ware soft-shells is for windproof and durability. The water resistance is added bonus. Being wet when I can’t feel the wind factor it is just ok with me (=I don’t get cold really). Mobility is great (and most important property) with soft-shell. there is no constrains like you would experience from regular windproof shells and, it takes lighter material in soft shells to provide the same durability that u get from heavier plain nylon shell. So do they work for me for what they intending…YES Do I think in general that they WAY over-priced garments….HELL YEAH!!!! Just look for some on sale and u don’t feel bad when they “don’t work” like YOU expected I have one Scholler (sp?) shell that I got from EMS for $50 and Patagonia Dimension that I got for $80 both brand new

Yep the Rambocomp is pretty much specialized crampon…but anyway fully rigid will not cut it for Glacier travel but they for Water fall ice and mix Well it is all matter of what u like more anyway u use it, it will be “Happy ending” take your "pick" French or Italian

The way it worked for me is the largest in diameter and the lightest pulley u can find with the Petzl basic (or alike) weighted and attach to it allot better (=efficient) then anything sold the Kong “roll block” is nice but also expensive ($111 shipped from barrabes) and heavy (2.2lb) my other option will be the”UP101” from CMI for $84.15 (add about $7 for shipping) and 1.625lb

“The peace will guide the planets and love will steer the stars” Why cant we all get along ,… pope

I think POPE become Palooka or maybe Ferrous Cranus is more appropriate

Now when I wizen and Fatten over the years I have to say That between my Rambocomp and the M-10 the Rambocomp is better for ice and mix better points config (=stability) cant wait to try the new G-14 also I have the Rages and I am looking for a lighter (or feel lighter) tools (I also have the Quark…slightly too light and they vibrate a lot …ohh that’s why they recommend them for woman… )

It is a wanker debate!!! Bolt it if u like (=scared) or need to practice ground up …so it will lessen the impact in a way of accidents and crampons points scratches all over the “cliff”. By doing so you will be creating great place to get strong. When it matter like a lead in the Canadian Rockies (which is BOLTED all over the place) you wouldn’t need rescue which have a HIGHER impact. (hey we did the news couple of times last year…(=IMPACT!!!!)) Minimize the visual impact by using the painted bolts (man it happened to me time and time again that the section on the topo marked with bolt location and I couldn’t see it 2 feet away b/c of the color) BTW I do have a hand drill that I use sometime nothing is wrong in drilling bat-hook, rivet, or holy disgrace …A…BOLT

thanx !!! I will look for one

yeah, but I live in Seattle

Is anyone experienced a welt wear down to a point that the crampons starts slipping off the boots…it happened once or twice on my 6 years old Nepal Top ( that still looking like they just came out of the shopping box despite wear on the front welt (the crampons bail in cut)) Anyway to deal with that?

Not by virtue but by experience I found the WM to be more comfortable and well made with meticulous attention to details I would expect from a company that dose only sleeping bags for the last 30 years to know their craft and to have THE perfect sleeping bag dialed just right And again I only judge by what I experienced for instance I don’t have a problem with the length of the bag…

Look at Western Mountaineering Apache 2lb 20F $285 if u already paying $260 the WM is better bag I have it and it is the bomb

Well, on my way there Thursday anything in away of avalanche danger that I should be aware of (latest conditions)

U can buy cheap one for ~$70 or better yet go to a thrift store like Salvation Army or Goodwill and buy one for $10 or less

Or u can tie your own from 1” webbing or smaller I’ve done this on most of my axes... for a dollar or so

Nozone

Judging on resent weather conditions history trend… not enough time to form well…I will wait for more consistent cold conditions to form more then a icicles/daggers Yeah I can’t wait either

conditions as for 11/08/03 seems to be in favor there is no new snow on the ground and it looks pretty straight forward although everything could already changed by now

Defiantly not the very familiar with the Canadian Rockies but this is what Ill do for the time I have Weeping wall BrideVail falls Ice 9 area North face of Fay Chouinard route