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IceIceBaby

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Everything posted by IceIceBaby

  1. Nah, just some plant hanger with some hose-clamps and wrap with athletic tape
  2. Here is my setup
  3. Liloo, any takers, open till Tuesday 206-328-2446
  4. it was Mucho fun, with perfect partly suny weather and we had the cliff to ourselfs
  5. Lately I started to notice a white powder buildup on my carbiners as well as white crystals. When I went to remove it, it felt like a grains of sand. I know that it is Aluminum corrosion. I was wondering how safe is it to continue using the slings and the biners? 1) Where the aluminum had contact with the nylon-spectra sling, I notice some white spots (from the aluminum corrosion). Also a little stiffness where the white powder buildup on the nylon slings, but after washing the slings they seems to be supple again 2) There is some shallow pitting evidence on carbiners once I remove the crystals and the white powder with a fine sand paper. Please real answer
  6. I will go if I had a car, just came back from fooling around on Rap Wall
  7. anyone for today...maybe
  8. common ya wankers, Index, Squish all good
  9. anyone, would love to go out--no car 206-328-2446
  10. who would like to do some aid next week... I am open and ready
  11. BTW EMS have awesome sale on all their clothing and the clothing construction is far better then REI the Belay jacket is only $80 with Primaloft One insulation
  12. BTW EMS have awesome sale on all their clothing and the clothing construction is far better then REI the Belay jacket is only $80 with Primaloft One insulation
  13. BTW EMS have awesome sale on all their clothing and the clothing construction is far better then REI the Belay jacket is only $80 with Primaloft One insulation
  14. you were on the money. I remember the area from Strong slides show it is the right area
  15. who would like to go? I sill don't have a car but I have the time and patient
  16. it was AWESOME with good amount of ass wooping next objective is littel-wet for ice climbing w/e, anyone?
  17. it is suppose to be good wanna go
  18. who would like to go? whatever Dtooling, hiking, scoping at Snoqualmie dont have a car but I have the time
  19. maybe they will change their mind and start produce the picks as demand increases, who know, by the look of the picture it looks like they could. The head looks modular to me
  20. Yep u right but try them after New Year for the real deal
  21. $425 US got mine at Peragon in NYC end of the season sale for $175 GTX Fully insolated hood (dont know the modle exactly) BTW they do mail orders
  22. Really happy with the Arc’teryx Fission (sp) I owned most of the jacket mentioned above but this one seems to have all the features I want
  23. I am sorry for my English but JayB was almost on the money cracked you had to be there to see it. It is a theory and I think it makes sense
  24. Yeah it does!! the combination of long rigid handle and the little knob like the BD “coffee grinder” knob transfer more directly the up and down movement of rotation to the screw part it self as oppose to wider and bigger “coffee grinder” like the sonic Try holding them both on the same level on the screw part while someone turning then from the coffee grinder point to so you can see what I mean
  25. In an experiment, at feathered friend’s rep day, with Petzl, and other presented, we conducted ice screws placement test. The result I observed were unanimous. My theory is: long rigid handle creates the most torque on the starter-hole, and therefore tends to fracture and shedder the first five centimeter of the ice (the outer surface). Also the small knob (the coffee grinder handle) creates more torque (up and down movement) on the placemet therefore enlarging it and creating looser placement when compare with larger pivoting knob like the sonic’s "bolt hanger" The worst of them were the BD (I will assume that the OP will behave the same), because they have small knob ( coffee grinder pivoting point), and low rotation angle (long stright hanger) which caused an indirect driving force on the screw. Second worst were the Petzl sonic, they preformed conciderbly better then the BD because higher angle of rotation (the force is directed more directly to the screw itself), but still due to rigid handle they were still fracturing the ice too much . The best performer, with almost no fracture, were the Grivel 360 they were the most secure placement and with the cleanest hole as well as the fastest to go in . Anyway just my two cents
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