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Everything posted by IceIceBaby
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Awesome tools that do it all are the Rages, Axtar (sp?), Alps wing, Naja, Predators etc’ Most important for me is the clearance and hook-ability they all relatively plunges well but lets face it if u going on alpine climb that demanding ice-tools then you will be fine with any of the above any more it is only bells and wistels if you cant climb a climb the fancy Cobra, Fusion, Viper, Quark/Ergo and whatever fancy tools wont do it I was climbing till 2 years ago with straight shaft Cassin tools and footflang and leading solid 4’s so it is not the tool ( but sure it can help) it is all in the basic design and not in the bullshit it is all in the pick profile and angle and not on the fluff that they sell u try the above and pick the one that fit u best and don’t be a sucker for gimmicks (Funny how they all say the rages are just OK tools and now BD decided to use the shaft clearance and design to their most advance tool the Fusion…)
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OK any takers I can leave Thu
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anyone for this w/e...would love to go and have some ice 206-328-2446
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Patagucci DAS Parka or Cloudveil Enclosure Parka
IceIceBaby replied to Rainier_Wolfscastle's topic in The Gear Critic
the Arc'Teryx Fission is my choice especially if u HAVE to smoke crack and yes it dose answers 2 needs of insulation and shell incase it will rain needles to say saving weight in the process Believe me it is no fun to be wet in your parka EVEN if it is synthetic insulation you will be cold and you will feel any wind gust I think in the north cascades it especially come to it own since the weather can easily change from clear to rain It did happen to me couple of times and from now on I always carry the fusion with me -
Patagucci DAS Parka or Cloudveil Enclosure Parka
IceIceBaby replied to Rainier_Wolfscastle's topic in The Gear Critic
If u really into the WT just give them a call and ask them to modify the parka to your liking most likely they will do it for no additional charge they good like that But if u would like to bring only one shell/parka to the mountains the Fission is the way -
Patagucci DAS Parka or Cloudveil Enclosure Parka
IceIceBaby replied to Rainier_Wolfscastle's topic in The Gear Critic
DAS is great Wildthings belay parka is better but the Arc’teryx fission belay parka is best I think that Primaloft is the best synthetic insulation base on many parkas that I owned in the past and finally got it right BTW the Lowe Alpine one that they did was a bomber but on the Heavy side -
It definitely feels like you can get out the tools and go stubbing Anyone know any ice route that ready to ascent im itching for ice
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how is the ice now I will go if u dont mind a none crack climber
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we were testing the ledge as well this was on mordor wall in NH cathedral ledge BTW thew trees u see are on a ramp that to the side of the wall we are only 160' off the ground "This is a test this is ONLY a test..."
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here is mine in action if you would like to make your own here is how I did mine under $25 (actually it cost me $23 total )
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I like them they are pretty bomber Wrap the small threads with the white silicon tape (plumbers tape) about 2 to 3 times and no more leaks…get the straw extension and this is the bomb with variable water capability I find it very easy to clean and very reliable I also own the Camelback and Platypus and I like the MSR and the Camelback the best
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he is low balling u Ill give u $75 for all and I will let u throw in your pride too ...hey u mind as well ...u on the oll ball and chain now
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My favorite this weekend photo (share) 10/3-6/03
IceIceBaby replied to Cpt.Caveman's topic in Climber's Board
here is a real one http://fatboyclimbingclub.homestead.com/index1.html -
is anyone know them http://www.fogtech.com
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one of the Best alpine hammers out there CHARLET MOSER GOULOTTE and climbs waterfall ice very well I have the 45cm version
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Best gloves for skiin' in the rain?
IceIceBaby replied to Doug_Hutchinson's topic in The Gear Critic
Try latex and bd drytools …I don’t know how it will work but surly sounds like waterproof for me -
Climbing on Sunday…anyone?…Still dont have a car…but do have everything else Index, 11worth, exits it is all good…just wanaclimb
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Main: Moussaka YAM YAM
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Washington pass south-west rib on South early winter spire and the next day it started raining so we didn’t want to chance it and drove to 11worth originally wanted to do the west face of Jell-o-tower but it was so jam-packed that we went and did Spaghetti sauce all XY and wanted to do Classic crack again but a whole school of kids on field trip turned us back
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Speaking of Salomon, I had the Pro Ice the boots fit great and were good climbers…BUT I had to return them THREE times to REI due to eyelets that kept popping out after the 3rd time I just replaced it with Trango S extreme…so far no complaints If the Salomon will workout this bug of the boots thouse boots will (Why don’t they use the regular eyelets on the top of the boots its beyond me…anyway this is the area that see the least amount of abuse)
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Try getting the Nepal Top Regular (if they fit) you still can find them on Ebay or some stores closeouts In my own experience a wonderful boots (and quite lighter then the Nepal top extreme) one piece leather with minimal seams construction this boots and size 44 goes at 5lb 8oz with better foot bed in (Dr Scholl’s Extra Support Insoles)
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Well the truth is somewhere between …in order to make the boots light they resorted to a “trick” materials which are lighter but don’t have the same ability to mold and durability and flex of leather so they came with a combination of the two = A LOT more seams to bond the various patches of materials Now every cobbler will tell u this elementary rule “if u looking for the most durability and waterproofness then go with one piece leather boot with the MINIMUM amount of seams” Less is ALWAYS more in mechanics of gear if looking for durability But leather is heavy and if using the standard Nappa leather (it is all Nappa leather, just different treatment to the leather hence the proprietary names) in standard 3mm width with good Vibram sole it will be in the upper 5lb lower 6lb with no fancy hardware Now if u will have some better R&D and better craftsmanship and design u might be able to reduce the weight a bit but there will be always a tradeoff for durability
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Hi Colin, The Scarpa freny is not full on ice climbing/ mountaineering (well not in the same category as the one pictured) but anyway, I don’t know if u used bee wax or alike to waterproof them…that will reduce the life span of the boots significantly (b/c they all the same they will and do rot the threads and weakening the seams…the only way to waterproof boots in my experience is with silicon spry and my favorite is Tectron…as for the method I have posted that previously so you can do the search) Also try to take care of your boots by cleaning them after each trip with dampen cloth saddle soap will help every so often (try to avoid the seams anytime u apply any soap or cleaning/conditioning treatments) air dry the boots AWAY from heat source If u do this I will say u should expect AT LEAST 5 years of your boots. My own experience is with Nepal Top (regular), which I own for over 7 years and use constantly in the winters and the boots are STILL in superb condition
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I climbed with the Kayland Super Ice and I was very happy although the approach wasn’t that comfortable and I have the opportunity to climb with Scarpa Cumbre which were great climbers but my fat foot were suffering in them for some odd reason the Vasque fit me well but I never had the chance to try the 9000 series but from what I could tell they are very much like the Kayland Super Ice which I really liked…now if only they were comfortable for walking They all warm to modeate temp (~0) and they all great boots go with what fit…and less is more in term of stitching as far as durability concern However I hardly can see any of the above boots thrashing in less then 5 years of abuse Other words u can expect AT LEAST 5 years of service from any of the boots u looking at BTW take the pair u trying and weight them in the store scale if looking for light boots then in man sizes (43-44) it should be around 5lb ~ 6oz
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Very good boots (if they fit) I would have gotten them but they don’t fit me…honestly in today’s market it is hard to make a mistake buying gear…there are so many excellent products out there so comparing them is like splitting hair