Jump to content

IceIceBaby

Members
  • Posts

    765
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by IceIceBaby

  1. Actually the best TR rope solo is the Gibbs and the Petzl Micro-ascender and the CMI one pretty close behind…they all have VERY smooth feed and great stop vs. shear ratio the Ushba on (although I like it) seems to have a problem with stopping a falls and having a higher impact on the rope then previously thought
  2. Sky, what u missing is the feed factor….it will be a pain in a butt to make the Reverso suitable to lead with. the biggest problem of all of the solo devices is the feed (modified GriGri seems to have a lot less feeding problems but this is a complex issue) unfortunately no mechanical device can do this yet
  3. get a GriGri BTW learn how to solo first on TR and get your System down...then go venturing
  4. I have the ATC-XP – Pro: great feed, control, smooth rap, can rigged without taken off the biner Con: hard to belay 2 with it, OK control on single skinny rope rappel, (my preferred rock climbing belay device) ATC- Pro: great feed Con: OK rap, no control, hard to belay 2 with it, bad control on single skinny rope rappel Reverso - Pro: can belay 2 with it Con: jerky feed, bad control, cant rigged without taken off the biner, fast rap, bad control on single skinny rope rappel TrangoB-52 – Pro: can belay 2 with it, can rigged without taken off the biner Con: jerky feed, bad control, OK rap, bad control on single skinny rope rappel Trango Jaws - Pro: great feed, smooth rap, control, can rigged without taken off the biner Con: hard to belay 2 with it, OK control on single skinny rope rappel Metolius BRD – Pro: control, can rigged without taken off the biner, smooth rap Con: jerky feed, hard to belay 2 with it, OK control on single skinny rope rappel OP SBG-II - Pro: great feed, control, smooth rap, can belay 2 with it, great control for single skinny rope rappel, Con: cant rigged without taken off the biner (my preferred Ice/all around belay device)
  5. tomorrow if interested for X38/2...open all day but dont have a car yet 206-328-2446
  6. Anyone interested doing something tomorrow I am available all day (Just don’t have a car) 206-328-2446
  7. I guess u had to climb there once to see what I’m talking about (allot of time they using the rings in order to create more room for biners to avoid clusterfuck at the belay…otherwise u will see a chain to avoid the American triangle) BTW pendulum is one of the most esthetic and well protectable line on “Mordor wall” in Cathedral and it goes at 11+
  8. There is no need to bolt a crack especially when it offers such a good pro…as it seems here it is not a rap station it is a belay station and BTW on cathedral u can walk off or use the abundant rap anchors on the neighboring routs
  9. pendulum crack crack bolt 1 crack bolt 2 crowbar whach whack whack tap tap tap pendulum gear anchor tool kit so what ya think
  10. anyone looking for a partner for exit 38 today?...I would love to come or meet with u anywhere close to capital hill...Yeah I still dont hve a car yet... (206)328-2446
  11. Well, no excuses for me I suck !!!. Coming from the Gunks this was my four or fifth pure crack climbing I just don’t know the tricks about climbing cracks...yet... I will learn...anyway, I bet whoever was watching me going up it had a good laugh
  12. I have to agree with TLG, I’m allot taller then her and I still looked like a climbing elephant …man do I suck on crack climbing…or should I say …I’M JUST PLAIN OLD SUCKY climber
  13. Would love to and available all the time...but no car and living in Seattle (capital hill)...if still interested call me at (206) 328-2446 or nericarmi@yahoo.com
  14. Looking to tag along with some climbers for exit 38 climbing unfortunately I don’t own a car yet…anyone interested??? I live in Capital hill and ready to meet anyone in downtown Seattle or such…I can be your belay slave or rope gun (up to 10b) whichever you need call me at 206-328-2446 or email me nericarmi@yahoo.com
  15. I have the Rages and the Quarks (I cant stand the Cobra and the Viper…anyway it is only a knockoff of the Quarks) the Quarks leash-less are the bomb those will be my next tools BTW I have a very small hands
  16. Whatup John, as promise I will be there starting June 24 and Looking for apartment…anything come to mind??? (2 BR Up to $850) I have to find an apartment hopefully before my shit comes on the fright truck BTW hyalite is awesome but the drive suckz
  17. So it is official I am moving to Seattle on June 23rd (from NYC) right now I am looking for apartment and Job but very soon for a climbing partner too… Please PM me Trad leads 5.8-5.9 (east cost-Gunks), follow 5.10b Ice lead NEI 4-5 (WI- 5-6), follow anything Mix follows M5-6 Aid lead A3± 917-584-8119 nericarmi@yahoo.com
  18. “Good judgment is a result of bad experiences and bad experiences is a result of poor judgment” …we all hoping to live long enough so we can have good judgments… Look at this, this way…it is a way to filter the good from the bad, and to keep in check the climber’s population control…to most I will say… do as much as you can DUMB SHIT!!!…so, I can go up and see less ecological environment destruction and less peoples on already over populated activity…yeah, less is more…unlash the dumbasses
  19. Here it is all the way to Wall Street journal
  20. Go with the RidgeRest ¾ for only 9 oz total…I thought that one would like to experience the outdoors, outdoors and NOT experience the indoors outdoors….believe me …if you worked hard enough when u were awake you will have no problem falling asleep at the end of the day
  21. I got mine late January and got 3 weekends of ice climbing and approaches with them three words… they are GREAT!!! …If they fit go for them
  22. I really like the SBG-II for Ice, the ATC-XP for Trad and the GriGri for Aid/Solo/sport I’m just not in for winded explanation for the reasons I do…Try and you’ll see
  23. agree!!! Poor choice of words I will say…however Gullible it is more appropriate relaying on manufactures biased interest …just do a quick research before spending the hard earned cash (which so little of it coming my way these days) and base your decision accordingly
  24. Not to butt in … But my beef is with the ridicules campaign of “light and fast” (push to the extreme). There are so many ways to save effectively on weight (sleeping gear, shelter, backpacks, boots etc), that the reduction in 1 or 2 ounce out of your cooking set will not make the crucial difference. Sure u “take care of the ounces and the pound will take care of them self,” however, the total result of using Ti cookware is not highlighted (extra gas, heat transfer deficiency, bad design, etc) like the emphasis in the weight of the cookware…that is what I call hype and for that I contest. Look at any professional cookware manufactures and look at core of their product in the middle of it is Aluminum (cost isn’t an issue mind you…just superiority of metal properties)
×
×
  • Create New...