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G-spotter

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Everything posted by G-spotter

  1. All yuppies live in the suburbs. The urban part refers to where they WORK. Young rural professionals are like vets and shit.
  2. Also more news for tree climbers: "Trailer Park Boys - the Movie" was the 11th highest grossing film in North America last week, despite not having a distributor in the USA.
  3. G-spotter

    James Nakagami

    notice how the one next to him has both her hands at crotch level...with arms crossed... you know what she's doing, don't you? isometrics
  4. I saw these on the way out highlighted by the sunset light They look like they would be fun to climb on... located in "the desert" left of Yak Check.
  5. Climb: Yak Peak-Speedway (11 pitches, Grade II 5.8) Date of Climb: 10/9/2006 Trip Report: Climbed this one on Monday with my friend Annie. I have been eying this side of Yak for a while, it was nice to get over there and check it out. The start of the route is not well described in the guidebook. And you cannot see the first pitch anchor from the ground. When you get over to the general area you might find a faded blue sling tied around a dead tree. Start right here and go up. If not, look for a white streak that is visible from the highway. White streak is just left of a shallow corner/scoop thing. Climb the white streak and a bolt anchor will magically appear 50m up as you reach the first ledge. If you walk along the base of the wall until you reach a pond, you have gone 70m or so too far west. First 5 pitches are 5.0 to 5.3. You get no protection bolts on the first two 5.0 pitches, one on the third (5.2), a possible TCU placement 5m below the anchor on the fourth (5.3) and a nice flake on the 5th (5.3). The wall steepens above. 6th pitch has a short step to pull over (5.6 with bolt) then a 30m runout to the anchor. 7th pitch is 5.7 with two bolts. First one is about 25m up. 8th pitch is a 4th class scramble between two ledges. There is some loose rock here. 9th pitch is the crux (5.8). A flake at the start gives you some gear placements, then run it out 10m to a bolt, then run it out 25m to another bolt, then easy to the anchor. 10th pitch is 5.easy for 20m to a bolt, then 5.5 for 25m to the anchor. Last pitch is 5.4 ish for 35m to trees. From trees there is supposedly a sketchy scramble up to summit but with all the nice Metolius Rap Hangers, rapping back down seems more enjoyable. The slabs are pretty low-angle so's your ropes will want to form piles below you instead of cleanly sliding down the slab when you toss'em. This is a really good one to do some simulclimbing or simulsoloing on. Providing you don't mind having nothing but the anchor clipped between you if simulclimbing. The first 5 pitches are basically walking or smearing up the slab, handsfree. The 5.6 and 5.7 are pure friction with few holds. The 5.8 is up edges in glacier polish and has real actual handholds and footholds. Simulrapping will get you down very fast. Longest pitch and longest rap is 50m so you do not need 60m ropes. Overall impressions, Pro: very good rock - better than on Yak Check. Nice bolting job, minimalist but just enough. Not as well known or as busy as other routes on peak. Bomber rap stations. Great day out. The 5.8 pitch and 5.7 pitch are three star. Even though this is 11 pitches, since the pitches are so runout you won't be stopping to fiddle in gear. Simulclimbing party can probably crank it off it 2 hours so it gets Grade II in my opinion. Climbing pretty slowly it only took us about 4 hours. Con: doesn't go to top. Lots of slab hiking with four "real" pitches. A 5.8 route that budding 5.8 leaders might have a real hard time with due to the length of the runouts (but if you can lead Pig Dogs on Parade it shouldn't be a big deal). This route and a Fred Beckey/Max deJong/Joanne Svensson line from the 1980s are very close to each other. Speedway may have been put up partially over top of the older route. But the places where the older line would have gear belays are off to the side of where the Speedway bolts are and I think Speedway takes a more direct line up blanker rock for the most part. However the two routes are probably no more than 30m apart at most for most of the climb. Arguable whether this is considered a retrobolt or not. I wouldn't worry too much about it cause Fred said that the line he climbed wasn't very good. Gear Notes: No more than 4 pts of pro per pitch - four shoulder slings plus a cordelette each for anchors. Gear used - #3 and 4 TCU, #1 Camalot, #11 Rock. Probably could have used a #2 instead of #1. Double 50m ropes or rope and tagline. Approach Notes: Hike trail to base of Yak Crack. Cut left along slabs (scrambling up and down and across) for ~500m and 15-20 minutes to base of route.
  6. you will ship to US from Wyoming?
  7. Waxed
  8. Sell your ass and your mind will follow.
  9. built-in whoopee cushions
  10. But look at the sexy boy-on-boy fun they had at the afterparty?!
  11. in kazakhstan, man give horse prostate exam number one sexy in enumclaw reverse is true
  12. a free enema with every prostate exam, limited time offer only, act now!!!
  13. north korea apparently is responsible for 75-80% of the counterfeit US dollars in circulation. they got whole warehouses of printing presses over there churning out greenbacks.
  14. so i climbed this nice 11 pitch 5.8 today that was put up in 96 there are from zero to two bolts a pitch, a couple of pitches have a single gear placement, the rest is blank slabs. it's a 5.8 route for a 5.9 leader, if it had 10 bolts a pitch i'm sure it would see trains of gapers clogging it up, as it is it probably sees three or four parties a season. it is clean on great rock. i don't see any legiitimate reason for adding any bolts to this one.
  15. people are kicking up a fuss cause if you, on a whim, want to buy a copy of some really obscure corner of the NWT, like say 105 L/6, they might not have it in stock , and you might have to (gasp) print on demand. P.o.D. like clover point already does.
  16. with indigenous wisdom and technology 100 per cent
  17. Let me spell it out for you in small words This is a private map The government did not print it A private company did It cost $7.99 Not $50 to $100 You Are Full Of Shit
  18. You are so dumb I'm laughing at you cause you are so dumb, you don't even realize how dumb you are. i have here in front of me an ITMB 1:100K map of the Baker and Chilliwack Valley areas. printed on waterproof, tear-resistant paper using dtopographic ata sourced from both the Canadian and American governments. how much did it cost? $7.99. gosh! that's a lot less than $50. How DID they ever manage to do that?
  19. wedgemount area: wedge NR and NF routes Y couloir on parkhurst rethel couloir on rethel owls couloir NF weart central garibaldi: NF castle towers EF or NF garibaldi chilliwack valley: pleiades coouloirs priest-coupe on rexford joffre group: 3 couloirs on NF joffre NW face matier stonecrop gl. on slalok whistler area: NF fitzsimmons among others further north: NF Brew NF Sampson NF Crazy NF Plutus NF Meager across the border NF Shuksan NF Baker ne face redoubt winter/spring: cheam range north faces slesse couloirs nf harvey ne butt west lion nf ossa east face outram sumallo cirque etc.
  20. How many book publishers own their own printing press? Why would map publishers have to own their own map printer? You can bet I won't be paying for Cdn Topographic Maps ever again if this goes thru, cause I have a map printer at work
  21. MapWorld is fighting like crazy because they currently buy subsidized maps from the government for cheap and sell them at retail. If they have to print themself and sell them at the same price, they will lose that subsidized profit margin and thus their profits will go down. Your tax dollars are currently keeping Map World in business.
  22. Your head is so far up your ass you should install a picture window in your bellybutton
  23. the guide book you want is called "Climbing and Hiking in SW BC" by Bruce Fairley.
  24. shouldn't you be at tuft-up, bonsai man?
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