G-spotter

you are forget teh stumptown

You could clip into one end and tie your umbilicals to the other and not worry so much about getting the umbilicals crossed up.

I bet he doesn't even tell the reader what he did with all the money he found in that briefcase.

Buy four TriCams. pinky, red, brown, blue. Spend the extra money on Rockcentrics.

Muir on Saturday

A delightful aromatic musket.

Leading the same route several times in a row, your pro placement is going to speed up not because your skills improve but because you start to remember what piece fitted where the last time. I think it would be better for you to improve your speed by placing pro on the ground as quickly as you can and then checking it for security rather than messing around solo with two different ropes. And especially falling onto some sketchy solo rig with a second second solo backup. Taking lead falls on many self-belay rigs, like on the Ushba Basic or Petzl Shunt, can cut the rope at as little as 5 kN

You are confusing traditions and skills. A tradition is an activity. A skill is one way of doing that activity. If you have a tradition of eating pumpkin pie at Thanksgiving, whether you make the pie the same way every year, or whether you update the recipe based on some pumpkin pie you enjoyed at a friend's house, or whether you eat a store bought pie one year, you still maintain the tradition of pumpkin pie eating. Same like if you have a tradition of hunting whales then what tools you use to carry out the activity do not matter, whether it's a harpoon or an anti-tank rifle. Or if you use a paddled canoe vs. a motorboat.

There are a couple great stories in ANAM about people anchoring to cars and the cars moving... skull

Isn't it also used when your the middle person tying into say a 3 person rope team? That's what the butterfly is best at. With the bowlinegiant wad of crap, you can tie directly into the harness. With the butterfly, you need two additional biners.

I don't recall this as being a technique used by people that don't know anything about gear placement, rather a technique to get faster at setting secure placements that the climber can trust. You can do that standing on the ground and not have to fuck around with two separate ropes.

It's a contest and you are losing.

So you are out there 1)rope soloing and 2)solo toproping Somehow you have the mad skillz to set up a solo toprope and rope solo rig (what are you using, clove hitches or a Soloist or what), and yet you don't know anything about gear placement. Suuuure OK. If that's you then I doubt your safety. Basically this sounds like the type of thing Jamin would dream up . Smithisheaven - try using a pad. Like you do every month.

no shit, you even type sort of like him HOWS THE WEAAAAAATHER UP THERE KNOW ANXY CAXXXNADIAN GIRLS?

Pezel?

That's not a tradition, that's a specific skill. Hunting a deer with a gun uses different skills than hunting with a bow, but both can maintain a tradition of hunting.

Naw, that'd just be rope soloing, less of a clusterfuck. But why not just place gear not far off the ground, hop in the aiders and then give it a good bounce test?

No shit! I have this problem with native hunting special rights as well. In Montana, Idaho, and Washington (probably other states as well, but these are the only ones I have read regs for) they are allowed to hunt when and where other people aren't, and they are allowed to use their 4 wheelers and snowmobiles in areas where everyone else is not allow. This is nostalgia? Come on. Tradition is independent of technology. Hunting with a gun instead of a bow is like sending email instead of a letter. Native hunting rights are a privilege, true, but that's what you get for being here first. That said, a right to hunt whales doesn't mean you have to hunt whales. Especially when the whale meat is so full of bioaccumulated PCBs that it qualifies as toxic waste.

http://www.animatedknots.com/alpinebutterfly/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com

Isn't it also used when your the middle person tying into say a 3 person rope team? That's what the butterfly is best at.

I can't think of a dumber technique.

Christian Snaffle

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