The BC Basemap access has changed significantly.
The portal is now through a federal website:
http://www.nric.ca/
The basemap data is now called "iMap BC".
Once you get to the actual basemap, it's mostly the same, but it is harder to find a link to turn the contours on. It took me a couple of minutes to figure out how to do it. You have to add basemap layers because contours are not in the options provided in the layers that are already turned on.