I was so thirsty the last time i climbed this route, that when I found a slug crawling on my chalkbag on the second-last ledge, i started chewing on it.
Like I said earlier - I was told it has been established by the guides' training program at Thompson Rivers University. If you have a problem with it, contact them directly instead of chestbeating about it online
well i have heard it called anywhere from "not bad 10c" to 11b... Shaun climbed it in his approach shoes.
There are plenty of topos that are not Lyle's. The first ascent report in the CAJ has a pretty detailed pitch by pitch description that you might find useful.
i tied in with an East German on Mt Cook who was blimp shaped and his webbing harness kept slipping off his hips because his waist was the widest part of his anatomy.
There are 6 or 7 bolts on the crux pitch. You can take 40 footers. Is that run out for YOU or not?
Other pitches have pro. The topo lists the number of bolts per pitch. You should check it out.