G-spotter

Now I have three guys to buy beer for.

DUDE! OMG you were soooo stoned u forgot to put bROWNIES on the list!

Damn mikey, just post on your Twitter that your Hotmail is crashed and tell your contacts to call your iPhone instead. Then change your Facebook status to "Michael Layton is sensitive and tear-streaked" and you're good to go.

BTW Guy Edwards freed the bolt ladder at around 12- back in the mid-90s.

I caught one fall years ago at Moaning Tree Wall where my buddy suddenly dinnerplated both tools out. He fell about 20 feet with rope stretch, and about 50 feet of rope out, onto a 17cm screw with a screamer on it (one of the OnSight ones). Approximately 1/3 of the length of the Screamer stitching ripped. The screw was totally unaffected - no shattering of ice or bending of tube. From that I concluded that they work good.

By this logic, all climbs of the notorious 10d Squamish offwidth "Pumpline" are in bad style, because the FA was a Free Solo, and now nobody is "respecting the style of the FA". it's Pipeline. Pumpline is in Leavenworth. And it was the FFA that was the freesolo. The FA was on aid, with sawed off pipe chunks as bongs - hence the name.

Also I would note than in the first 8 pitches (until you get to the crux pitches and bolt ladder) there is a total of 1 bolt and 1 fixed bong.

Bring double ropes so that when rockfall chops one you can cut it up for slings and rappel off using the other one.

is it made out of rubber?

Higher prices encourage conservation.

1 word: seamless

not to mention no one is logging on the coast right now cause its the winter and plowing roads costs money

Pound in ice pins in ice are next to worthless/body weight only. Testing reveals they blow out at about 5 kN, or more practically, less than the force that a Screamer or other load limiter limits the load to. Thy are alright in frozen moss, mud, ice filled piton cracks etc. espcially if they are placed so they cam. Mainly because they are the only pro that will work in such situations.

There's usually no sched flights to logging camps unless they are active. Flights to Scar Creek and Klinaklini are usually done from Campbell River side of things.

It happened when I pushed the button

Ummm. Not really.

I remember getting to the base on an "injury day" where our hands were too beat up to climb cracks anymore. We arrived just behind a party that took an hour to rack up and tie in. We passed them at the first belay and when we got back to the car they had just started the third pitch.

It's when they fall out faster than they turn gray that you really have problems.

"If you ride in the front seat you get there faster." - Flaming Carrot

I've done it 6 or 7 times between 1995 and 2004 and it took us 2 hours on average from Hidden Valley to Oak Creek. Longest spell was two and a half hours.

Aren't there driving directions to the crag in the latest article on it in Rock and Ice?

What about if I show up early or stay late for PDX, like the weekend before or after. Is a run up the Hood south side daytrippable? Should I bring my own Tauntaun?

Still some climbable ice in Box Canyon as of Saturday. It won't be there for long! Look out for the giant red spot of frozen blood.