G-spotter

Let's not forget, however, that it was the dead guy who had the psychedelic vision that gave MC 900 Foot Jesus his name

Little Oral Annie?

You can buy the Ninja Ice glove for $6- $7.50 at the local hardwear store and it does everything except rappel, well. http://www.ninjagloves.com/docs/ninja_icehtp.htm Get the one with rubber over the back of the finger as it stays dry when you are hooking over bulges and the backs of your knuckles are touching ice.

It is warmer when you are moving than the MX but not really all that much warmer when you are standing around doing nothing/belaying.

Moustrap got climbed Sunday and Monday despite Wild Bill's discouraging report above. Still - 2 there right now. Heard that Entropy got climbed o Sunday despite a report on the MCR that the bottom wasn't in. Olesen Slabs and some other seeps around Squamish are said to be fat. Will see how they survive the coming warm snap (which should only last Wed-Fri if everything goes well). Heard that Matt Maddaloni climbed a new M9 (?) in the Zombie Roof area just right of Old Age. Read a report that Cal-chek is fat, Mystery Roach is thin. Still haven't heard any recent reports from Lilooet (except for Marble Canyon) or the Duffy or D'arcy areas. But it was -20C in Lillooet the last few days. Expect that Honeyman etc will be in soon if not already.

I think when they transplanted her ass onto her chest they forgo to stitch the nipples back on. Maybe I just didnt search enough for them though

BTW, I noticed in the past that oiled screws have an ever so slight, but noticeable resitance when going in. But the idea is not empty. I wonder if there is smth to improve penetration. Alcohol? Nowadays so much is possible with chem advances. i noticed just the opposite, they go in easier too. the big drawback is when you blow the cores out you can get a whiff of the WD40.

If that works, how long does it last? All day but not all weekend. Reapply in the motel or wherever Saturday night

Couple of years ago on Night N Gale my partner had forgot his boots so I wore my plastics and he wore my leather boots (scarpa Freney 2000 model) which were a tight fit for him, about a half size smaller than his normal boot. temps around -20C all day, about 7 hours CTC My feet were fine, he got frostbite on big toe. Big black spot half under nail, later peeled off, lost a few mm (maybe a qurater of an inch) of skin. Kept the toe. He could walk around in sandals while the skin was coming off. the big deal I think was the tight boot rather than the cold. Cold was obviously a contributing factor but in his own boot fitting well he should have been fine as evidenced by neither of us getting frostbite on eg. noses or fingers that day.

Also if you WD-40 your screws on the inside before you start climbing for the day...

If you clean the core out of the screw when you take it out you won't have to fuck around with a corer at the belay.

Put some twang in it and it'll be a Nashville hit!

It's too easy... I know you are a total n00b but have you ever tried tapping the hanger against the ice and then blowing??

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/12/15/opinion/15brand.html?_r=2&ref=opinion FW: a denialist TTK: a calamatist

Do you think he got the Creedence back?

Lyndon LaR says you should stop evading....

Hey FW why aren't you trying to expose the Carbon Credit Death Camps? British admit: Copenhagen intends genocide‚ World Government The official British two-pronged policy for the Copenhagen Conference is now out‚ in explicit language. It consists of: 1) massive population genocide‚ on a scale that would make Adolf Hitler blush‚ and 2) the establishment of a world government with policing powers to cap carbon emissions‚ to tax every advanced sector nation to the extent of two per cent of GDP per year‚ and to impose a global levy on all global financial transactions‚ among other draconian provisions. Regarding the genocide‚ the Fabian Society’s London School of Economics‚ the anchor of the Fabian Gordon Brown government (the chief organiser of the Copenhagen Conference)‚ has produced a study for Copenhagen‚ released by the British government-backed Optimum Population Trust (OPT)‚ calling for the reduction of world population by between three to five billion people between now and 2050. This flagrant call for mass extermination is based on the argument that the single greatest cause of (non-existent) global warming is overpopulation‚ and that the most “cost-effective” cure for global warming is radical population reduction. This is not just the “opinion” of one way-out nutty group: The Copenhagen conference is itself being sponsored by the U.N.‚ and the United Nations Population Fund (UNFPA) tapped the OPT’s director‚ Roger Martin‚ to present the UNFPA’s own State of World Population 2009 report on the 16th November‚ in the lead-up to Copenhagen. Former Thatcher government adviser Lord Christopher Monckton blew the whistle on the proposed World Government on the Alex Jones radio show on 9th December. Monckton‚ who is in Copenhagen attending the UN climate summit‚ said that when he attempted to obtain a copy of the 180-page current draft of the negotiating text agreement‚ he was initially rebuffed before he threatened an international diplomatic incident unless the document was forthcoming. “I insisted‚ and it took about 10 minutes and they consulted each other with three or four of them arguing over it—none of them would produce the document … I said I know this treaty exists because this is what the conference is all about‚” said Monckton. Monckton went on to elaborate precisely how the 180-page treaty draft would establish a world government‚ replete with around 700 separate bureaucracies‚ and powers of taxation‚ inspection and enforcement over individual nation-states. Developed nations‚ for instance‚ will be taxed to pay the World Bank to fund developing nations‚ but such funds will only be forthcoming for those developing nations if they meet stringent criteria. The treaty also outlines‚ said Monckton‚ “penalties or fines for non-compliance”‚ in developed countries‚ and the creation of an international police force to “enforce its will by imposing unlimited financial penalties on any countries whose performance under this treaty they don’t like”‚ adding that that it amounted to a total global government takeover on an “unimaginable scale”. Briefed on Monckton’s findings‚ American statesman and physical economist Lyndon LaRouche charged‚ “What this 180-page document represents is a policy worse than Hitler‚ which is the policy behind the Copenhagen summit. And the people who are proposing this‚ therefore‚ are subject to trial for genocide. Anybody who proposes this‚ becomes subject to a subsequent trial for genocide‚ by a future Nuremberg proceeding. Beware! Do not propose this; you may be subject to a future Nuremberg proceeding!” LaRouche further called on China and India‚ who are coming under excruciating pressure to capitulate‚ to stick to their positions going into Copenhagen and to walk out if faced with mandatory emissions restrictions: “Stick to what they agreed to; stick to it! Don’t worry about the differences; stick to it! Screw this thing up! Destroy it now‚ and get rid of it! “The issue here is that some governments are in a sense ducking the issue‚ pretending to accept conditions which they intend to defy in fact. But the point is‚ then they will become targets for destruction on that basis. It’s better to defy than to try to evade. Defiance promotes unity; compromise promotes destruction.”

http://www.businessinsider.com/health-insures-caught-paying-facebook-users-virtual-currency-to-send-letters-to-congress-opposing-reform-bill-2009-12 How many virtual dollars did you get, PP?

Rolf doubtless has other uses than wading for his high boots. baa

Killed a bunch of moss, lichen and two small trees. trying to up my game to deal with the blank spot that was revealed.

I think you can get something "functionally equal" from wal-Mart for $5.99

I'd hit those!

Ya, jeez Fox, how come you bailed? Chicken?

You should've gone up to Box Canyon.

Trip: Fraser Canyon - FA "Welcome To Spuzzum (Come Again Soon)" 70m WI3 Date: 12/12/2009 Trip Report: Graham, Steve, Marc Leclerc and I left the Valley in the AM and headed up the Canyon to check out conditions. There is a shitload of ice in the Canyon at the moment, some thin, much as always on the wrong side of the river. We drove as far as Hells Gate and binoculared Hell-O Kitty across the canyon. The unclimbed direct finish looked technical and mushroomy so we decided not to make the hike. Driving back down looking for a Plan B we got a glimpse of some ice from Alexandra Bridge that I remembered flying over in a chopper years ago and that looked pretty good from the air. With no snow right now we were able to drive right up the Anderson River Road to below the route. Normally this would be a 4-5km hike on an unplowed logging road. yeehaw! After gaping around in the woods for a while we found the climb - a broad curtain of funky ice with lots of ledges and short pillars. Marc and Steve climbed a line on the left while Graham and I stuck to the right side. There was even room for another party or two to fit in here. The ice was pretty wet and plastic, lots of hero one-swing sticks, but the ropes stayed mostly dry. Below the route. Graham and my line was mostly easy but interesting with lots of rests and short steeper steps up grooves and bulges - pretty textbook WI3. Marc and Steve climbed a steeper line in the first 50m with a couple of near-vertical and chandeliered pillars up to 6-7m high, then finished via our route, to give a WI3+. Graham leading G and M double dipping. Marc on top of the lower pillar Steve seconding Steve nearing the first belay. No slings at the top of this one. We rapped off a giant Douglas fir and then hiked back down to the road. Then it was off to Hope for coffee! Since this climb is so near the beautiful metropolis of Spuzzum we decided to call the two lines we had done "Welcome to Spuzzum(Come Again Soon)". WtS is 75m WI3 while CAS is 70m WI3+. Gear Notes: Fat ice takes whatever you bring. No need for stubbies or rock pro. Approach Notes: Take Anderson River main turnoff from Hwy 1 across from Alexandra Bridge PP parking lot at sand pile, and drive about 5 km to a point above a small lake. Park next to a spur road to the west marked with a gate and No Trespassing/Private Property signs. The climb is above here on the left (looking uphill). Don't get distracted by some anemic weeps directly above the parking area - veer left to the good stuff.