stinkyclimber

All good suggestions. I live in the lap of luxury for biking to work because we have a full locker room with showers, so I leave my work clothers permanently at work (there is even a dry cleaner across the street!), and shower and shave here after the ride in. I would strongly suggest petitioning your workplace to find a place where people can at least hang work clothers and dirty biking clothes, even if there are no lockers (none of us here use locks on our lockers anyway...if you want to steal my dirty biking shorts, god be with you). After having showers, this sort of storage space is key to making this all work (and showers without this storage are kind of useless, IMHO). However, to follow up on Jon's suggestion for bike maintenance: if you get a flat, or have a drive train problem on your way to work, fixing it results in dirty hands for a week. Not always so cool if you have a meeting first thing, and black, greasy hands are not de rigeur in your workplace. Solution: carry a pair of latex gloves, or even rubber washing up gloves, in your pannier with your repair kit. Then, when you need to change a tube or fix a chain, pull 'em on, do the dirty work, and presto - you still have hands as clean as the pure driven snow afterwards. I use them for most bike maintenance because I hate the persistent dirty hands. Sounds kind of silly, I know, but I like to simplify my post-repair clean-ups, and scrubbing my hands like Lady MacBeth with degreasers, or butter, or whatever, is a pain in the ass that is great to avoid. Have fun riding to work. It is great - such a great way to start or end the day. Plus, it saves you money.

Also impressive (although not quite a winter ascent, but early April is still pretty wintry) was the House/Prezelj climb of the North Face of the North Twin. See the LTV thread, or http://www.climbing.com/news/ntwinagain/ Much more remote than Temple, and a much bigger route. House dropped his outboot on Day 3 of 5, and so they had to walk out via the Columbia Icefields - 40KM or so. A friend of mine was in there the day after doing the ski route up the Twins and came across these crazy postholes, one-way, all the way from the summit to the parking lot! Not something you see everyday up there (I have been up skiing on that icefield too - friggin huge...I can't imagine the prospect of walking it in winter conditions - although I guess it would feel a little more secure than a 6000ft alpine face!).

Hah, this is richly ironic. It is true that Kofi was in charge of peace-keeping at UN HQ, and that the UN let it all go down. But the reason that the UN didn't authorize appropriate force there was because two permanent members of the UN Security Council served notice that they would veto any resolution authorizing further action there. Retired Canadian General Romeo Dallaire, the one in charge of the UN contingent in Rwanda, still has PTSD from that tour, knowing he could have prevented it all if he was just given a little support. He is quite the speaker, and his stories are truly horrific. Anyway, those two permanent members?...yes, those old comrades in arms: those bloody French, and the good ole US of A. Sometimes when countries blame the UN, maybe they really need to blame themselves. After all, the UN is really just an association of members, and the 5 permanent members of the Security Council have enormous power - and accountability - for peace-keeping, and for programs such as Oil for Food.

Further to snoboy's point: with higher fuel prices, you are still free to use your SUV, and you will still pollute as much. But at least you are PAYING closer to the full costs of your automobile choice. If you pay closer to the full costs (including higher pollution costs, decreased safety, etc. which are currently borne by society as a whole - "external costs"), then you will probably make wiser choices about when and how to use your SUV. So then SUVs are more likely to be only used when they are actually needed...but the gov't doesn't decide that - the market does. You are a free marketeer, I assume...why aren't you supportive of letting the market inform people on automobile choice. By supporting artificially lower automobile operating costs, you are supportive of giving subsidies to a certain class of consumers, which introduces a market distortion...which is economically inefficient. I am fully supportive of an individual's choice to use an SUV whatever they want, no matter how silly...but only if they pay the full cost of that choice - I don't want to have to bear part of their cost for pollution cleanups and higher medicare expenses.

Yes, mine is a difficult life. Better than fantasy books, like you. Actually, Chomsky puts me to sleep...so maybe it would be a good bivi read.

Note: You are also complaining on the internet! But at least you are multi-tasking What am I doing?: prior to and during the actual war, and ever since, I have written many letters, and encouraged many others to write letters, to elected officials to encourage them to remain out of the "Coalition of the willing", and to be supportive of the UN and multilaterlism. I participated in civil actions here in support of peace. I donated money to organizations working for to prevent more war. And it worked - Canada, and the vast majority of the world's countries and population are against waging this war in this way! Unfortunately (jn my opinion, anyway), the US gov't and US citizens chose a different path. A different role than yours to be sure , and a lot less dangerous and difficult obviously, but I think democratic engagement is a critical contribution in a free society. I have every respect for your contribution...it is a thankless job, and you have stepped up to the plate. Kudos. However, I have neither the training nor the ability to do what you do, so I do what I can in other roles.

Holy shit, what is all this crap about global warming and diesel BTUs? Hmm, I was under the impression that you were there to create a stable, peaceful, democratic country. Just like the Marshall Plan. And the Marshall Plan, like just about every other nation building effort since, discovered that the path to peace is thru employment....unemployed young men tend to get bored, then violent. So in fact, if the US does want peace, then its mission SHOULD be to help create employment, no? It would surely make you job easier if young men were happily employed driving trucks or whatever than shooting at you.

Yah Dru, but driving a truck full of spare parts is a little easier to not fuck up then policing an anarchy. Besides, the UN manages to hire local workers in almost equally fucked up places (Sudan, Congo, etc.). Why can't the mighty US?...is it really just because of political pork-barrelling?

But that is what I don't get. Halliburton would make even more money if they paid local rates to local drivers. The Halliburton cronies don't give a shit, I am sure, about some truck driving schmoe from Florida. The contract to provide trucking services to the US gov't must specify the use of US citizens for all jobs...otherwise, Halliburton would go with the cheapest labour possible, no? So my question then is, why do these contracts, assuming they do, specify the use of US citizens for these types of blue-collar jobs? Or is the US gov't really that partisan and short-sighted that they would prefer to pork-barrel a few jobs to US workers rather than actually build a sustainable, stable, peaceful Iraq? I just don't get it - is it really that simple?...that even truck driving is politicized in this bloody war?

Not to deflect the line of conversation away from arguing over who's motives for being there are purer or more honorable, but... Question for whoever (Gotterdamerung or others): why aren't Iraqi's being hired to fill these sorts of jobs? Is it because of security, or because because the job (driving a truck) is technically beyond the average Iraqi? I mean, there must be lots of truck drivers in Iraq, and I am sure most of them are not hate-filled, Saddam-supporting terrorists. It isn't like this guy was driving a truck full of high security military equipment was it? And even if it was, wouldn't a carefully selected and supervised Iraqi fulfill the requirements as well as some guy from Florida? With the unemployment rate so high, and with unemployment leading to boredom leading to crime (this is true in any country) leading to terrorism/violence, wouldn't it make more sense to do a Marshall Plan type of thing and actually employ Iraqi's to rebuild their own country? That is what the UN does, for the most part, in peace-keeping operations - any job that can be done by a local is done by a local. And as a side benefit, it is cheaper.

Yes, but the crux on those routes is dodging the top-ropes,and/or waiting in line. That adds to the grade.

Oops - I got Vector mixed up with Calculus, and South Arete mixed up with Calc. It was Calc I was thinking was a good bet (like Dru said). Sorry for the confusion...never question or doubt a Dru. I second Fern's recommendation (about the Bluffs...although the passing lane thing is annoying too).

To be fair though, although Calc Crack isn't hard, it is a wide crack, and to someone starting out, it will feel scary and insecure (it's the crack to the right of St. Vitus, right?). I'd stick with B Peel, Diedre like Dru suggests. What about that retro-cleaned route on the north Apron - the South Arete (the one left of St. Vitus)? It sure looks low angled, and I think it has new belay bolts and all that shit.

You really don't know what you are talking about, do you? The recently completed strike was by health care SUPPORT workers, not nurses. Support workers include licensed practical nurses (as well as cleaners, lab techs, etc.), but you are talking about Registered Nurses...they are in a different union. The nurses weren't even that supportive of this strike - so much for solidarity - it was the other public sector unions who have their own contract negotiations coming up that were worried that the same thing would happen to them (tearing up contracts, retroactive rolling back of wages, widespread layoffs). Look around Canada (but not the US...that is a different society with different values on equity and fairness) and you will find few examples of governments that impose retroactive wage rollbacks on top of imminent widespread contracting out/layoffs...Campbell brought this on himself - if he had offered 0% wage increases, and limited layoffs, the union would have happily accepted - they know they are overpaid compared to the rest of the country, and know they have to wait for other provinces to catch up before they get more increases...but no, Campbell chose to kick them in the nuts to score political points with the business lobby and the neo-cons. That tactic has bitten him the ass...most citizens were supportive of the strike action, and were outraged that the gov't would make someone who just got a huge pay cut pay back some of last month's wages. That is just disrespectful...if they are "essential" service workers, treat them like they are essential...and that starts with a little respect. BTW, I am not a union lover by any means. Shit, I am on the management side in the local government sector. But I really did find Campbell's negotiating tactics odious and counterproductive.

I'd go with Dru's advice and call John, or just check his ski guide. It gives the # for the industrial containers place in Burnaby that sells 20-40L? metal paint cans (with the hammer on lids) that almost everyone I know uses for caches on spring ski traverses. They were $5/can last time I bought them. Wouldn't save your food from a grizzly, but they are good for everything else. And if you pack it carefully, and with the airtight lid, I don't think it would give off enough odour to attract a bear to make a concerted effort to open it. I haven't heard off too many problems with this system, at least during spring traverses on the big Coast range icefields...might be different later in the summer and in lower or unglaciated alpine areas.

testosterone = can't spell (even if there is a BB spellcheck)

Yup, that's the one.

Actually, bikes are no longer allowed on the Assiniboine trail (the new, faster access to the mountain is via the south side, up Assiniboine Ck...you can do the peak in 18 hours car to car, apparently!...better than 30KM of flat hiking up to Magog). Both it and the first part of the Berg Lake trail where bikes are allowed (not the whole thing), and the Diamond Head trail above Squamish (another bikes allowed "trail") are actually roads, or certainly road-like, not really trails, and hence aren't going to be impacted by erosion as much, and have plenty of safe passing room. Outside of these rare road-sized trails, there are few other mountain trails in Canada that allow bikes, so be careful in drawing conclusions based on which country the trail is in. Bikes are just as vilified here...for both good and not so good reasons.

Warning: the Naam, while a great brekkie spot, is a vegetarian restaurant. So don't expect fat, greasy sausages. Can be a let down if that is what you are keen on. There is a great breakfast spot on the NE corner of Arbutus and 4th in Kits, can't remember the name. Funky sign. Get there before 9AM on weekends, or be prepared to wait in line! The Tomato at 20th and Cambie is good. Close to MEC. Don't forget to leave your handgun(s) and rifle(s) at home. Because we don't use real money, we find there is no real crime, and therefore no need for real guns. We stick with water guns and harsh language for self-defence.

Alas, that is what Andrew and I thought...three failures prior to this trip for me (first two times only a short way around due to huge storms, and the third time all the way to the Macbeth (60% around?), then whiteout/storm the next day followed by escape down the Fitzsimmons). Andrew had 4 prior failures to his credit, including twice to the Macbeth! Now we are each at our 4th and 5th failures - pretty pathetic for such a gumby route! Anyway, we are so pissed off about it that we are going to do it hell or highwater in early May, from the Whistler side, with light overnight packs. I will let everyone know when we are going so you can avoid the area...I am sure the weather will crap out on us again, no matter what the forecast! (I think it is paypack for a half dozenor more Rockies trips we've done in perfect weather!) Good to meet you, snoboy, and nice seeing you again after so long, Fern. Next time we'll have to do a more social trip that involves less non-stop skiing and more resting and breaks!

After wandering half way around the Spearhead on Saturday in a whiteout (hey Fern, how did you guys do after we split up?), we salvaged the weekend by having a fun day out on the Neve. Got fried by the sun. A little less than 11 hours car to car, with lots of lounging in the sun along the way. The Neve is still in great condition. Snow started about 600m up the Diamond Head trail, and then it went all the way down the Barrier Trail to about KM4.5 (mid-way down the upper switch backs). Lake still well frozen and in good travelling condition. No crevasse issues on the Neve itself. 'Schrund on Garibaldi totally covered. Didn't see much of the Spearhead even though we did the first 40% of it. Few slots. Good travelling conditions. A cast of thousands blindly following our tracks (but they would have had a good Sunday). Note that Blackcomb is now closed until July (Whistler is still open).

Just did the Neve yesterday. Were those your tracks we saw...across from Brohm, and then a bootpack straight up (!! - you guys don't like switchbacks?) the Warren to the summit? Then ski down? If they weren't your tracks then you should go soon. Conditions are great. The 'shrund was move covered than I have seen in years. Didn't look like an issue at all. And the skiing looked OK too. If we had had more time, we probably would have been tempted to scoot up it too because it looked so good (we were only out from the day).

I wouldn't call it ruthless...the main point of the article that TeleNut quoted, it seems to me, is that the most effective tactics at reducing support for and the capability of Hamas are not "ruthless" violence and mayhem of the type Telenut sounds supportive of (targeted killings, harsh repression of the general pop., ghettoization of the occupied territoris behind fences, etc.). Instead, the article singles out several distinctly non-violent tactics that are smarter, more targeted on the perpetrators (rather punishing all Palestinians) and which are actually, perhaps, effective: - arrest the brains and the leadership of violent groups - intercept bomb making material in transit - cut off the money supply that supports violent groups and their associated PR efforts These are not ruthless tactics that the rest of the world is criticising, I don't think. The rest of the world is critical of targeted killings (instead of arresting the brains and the leaders, and trying them in a court of law), and blanket, arbitrary repression of Palestinians (instead of intercepting only illegal shipments, and stopping the money used by violent groups). So actually, Telenut, by posting and supporting this article, you are actually supporting solutions to the middle east conflict that are non-violent, and which follow the due process of the law. Kudos to you! Not ruthless at all! Of course, what is good for the goose, is good for the gander. So it is time for the UN and the US to set and enforce targeted sanctions of Israeli leaders and the IDF...no more arms, no more money, and arrest those - the brains and the leadership - who have commited illegal, violent acts. Then maybe the Israeli population, many of whom are not supportive of the actions of their gov't, will rise up and demand peace.

He said it wasn't too bad - it is pretty flat all the way over from Brohm Ridge, except for the drop down to the Pass. An easy day, he says. And he said the rock is amongst the best he has seen in the alpine. But still, I agree - a long walk for short routes. The Pacheco's went in there twice, I think - once by themselves, and the second with Spag...the only repeats, then, were by the FAers! It sounds like his route on Davidson is a longer, tougher walk, although at least the actual route is longer. Lorne was puking and hallucinating that the Swedish Bikini Team was on the Cheakamus Glacier by the time they finished! ...However, that is a good hallucination!

Hmm, Canadian mountain photographer Pat Morrow, the first human to do the real seven summits (i.e. incld Carstensz Pyramid, not the highest mound of sheep shit in Australia that Bass did to claim it) way back in 1986 will be surprised by this claim! Hopefully she meant "first Canadian woman"...