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fern

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Everything posted by fern

  1. last weekend there was a purple camalot stuck but rattly on Godzilla. A long nut-tool and needle nose vicegrips would probably get it out.
  2. jane hengeveld is my climbing hero. someday I hope for the honour of watching her top-rope Doing the Dishes
  3. however the variation finish which traverses far left at the start of the sixth pitch and continues up blueberry and mud choked chimmenies sports ONE thrilling move of 5.10 lichen slab. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
  4. and Oregon is the only place where you ever have climbed or plan to climb. [ 08-28-2002, 04:52 PM: Message edited by: fern ]
  5. like I said above, 'Ha Ling Peak' is the original name. 'Chinaman's Peak' is the lazy popular label. Maybe they should rename it Mt. Trudeau
  6. quote: Originally posted by iain: Isn't it Ha Ling now for obvious reasons? It always was. Ha Ling was the name of the first person to climb the mountain.
  7. McLane apparently proclaimed the route overbolted and john Howe lamented that the bolting was 'saggy' (i.e. you can sag on the bolts at the cruxes) ... With accolades like that it is an instant classic.
  8. if you don't know the way down from the centre summit then try not to get benighted.
  9. fern

    6000

    quote: Originally posted by Dru: and Valhalla-Pure in Squamish DID YA CONTRIBUTE TO THE BOLT FUND ?!?!?!?!? that shit ain't FREEE !! how about some DEVO to celebretate
  10. blackcomb already had about a foot of fresh a couple weeks ago! I predict an early season I might head up to Squampton this weekend.
  11. page top? I hate all my packs.
  12. fern

    Sahale

  13. rope below: star chek p2, triage arete, totally clips, some other thing at smith that crosses a bunch of other routes and ends at the top of a cliff rope above: naturopath, besot and flushed, BBQ da pope do slab climbs count as sport climbs though, even if the only pro is bolts? 'cause I sure wouldn't want to take repeated whippers
  14. FWIW the zipper on my Bibler (~6 yrs old pre BD, Eldorado bought 2nd hand) is a YKK. No troubles after multiple weeks of alpine living, and not taking much care about straining it. I think you got a jingus zipper and you should raise hell. The holes in the floor are your own fault though, and easier to fix anyways. Personally I'd rather have a lightweight floor with 0.005% by area seamgrip patching holes than a heavyweight floor.
  15. more lego picture not for children or Boeing employees how about some Kraftwerk?
  16. fern

    Helmets

    the real dru has less hair on his head and more on his palms ... I mean chin ... plus glasses. Looks kinda like this
  17. fern

    Helmets

    that's not dru that's Andrew Port and that's not even his own helmet - total set-up
  18. If you have any comments or suggestions about maintenance of the Burton (Sphinx) hut you can send them to Greg Rekken (flamesnflowers at hotmail.com). Hut maintenance materials can only be brought in in winter on skis so it is good to know in advance what might be needed.
  19. quote: Originally posted by Dwayner: Yep, even your grandma has big number potential and it might take here a heck of a lot longer than that Sharma-feller, but with enough rehersal, she's crankin' hard! or she might do it onsight: grand wall grandma [ 08-20-2002, 02:47 PM: Message edited by: fern ]
  20. I know of 2 of these counters in BC Prov parks. No permit system, just counting users. One is on the stairs up the Chief backside trail, the other is on the stairs to the nudist beach
  21. fern

    Fear issues

    I'm not icegirl
  22. fern

    Fear issues

    a while ago I was having a bad time of finding the confidence to lead anything, not for any particular reason that I could discern. I was whiny and no fun. The cure I found was not far off what TG says ... I got out and climbed a few easy but runout and chossy alpine routes, new climbs that had no reputation to intimidate me. I had lots of fun and found back some of the joy I get out of climbing. Another thing I found that has given me more confidence in my climbing was just making myself physically stronger and fitter. Here's a question though: Who believes that the two choices in climbing partnership are either swing leads OR ropegun+burden? Can one climber be an equal partner even though they lead 0<=pitches<50% ?
  23. but the '+' is the sandbag loophole. 5.X+ means harder than 5.X, how much harder need not be specified. You can use the same logic to impress people by quite accurately claiming to be a .14- climber
  24. another trick is to pack the caps separately and repaint the bottle. I can't remember where but somewhere I read that on some domestic flights in the himalaya area you are allowed a stove fuel limit of 100 litres ... maybe its bullshit
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