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Everything posted by jkrueger
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Since you're trying to take advantage of the prodeal, I would suggest buying the most expensive stuff first. You don't save much with a prodeal on slings! But with cams, ropes, boots, ice screws, climbing shoes, crampons, etc. the savings are enough to make me jealous!
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I would consider any beta from Dru to be potentially sandbagging!
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Washington Granite Snaffles can free solo 5.15d backwards! Leavenworth is the horsecock capital of the PNW. The Forest Pass system bites. Jeff Smoot's guidebook leaves much to be desired. Granite is sharp. True ratings are hard! The obvious ascent trail is anything but.
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Not necessarily stupid, but I found this quite an amusing statement from my partner earlier today: "Watch out for this cam - I placed it right over a bee's nest. Don't worry though, they don't seem too agitated!"
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quote: Originally posted by Greg W: ...I am not too clear on the "gate lash" phenomenon...[/QB] Take a carabiner in one hand, and smack it against your other hand, gate said up, hard enough to make it snap open. Because wire gates have less mass, it takes a greater force to open them, thereby making them less prone to gate lash.
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Yeah fern, great link. Hey DFA, reassemble your draws so you have 7 wire gates on both ends and you're alpine ready!
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From the specs I've looked at, wire gates seem to be the same strength as standard biners. I've heard that wire gates may actually be safer because the wire will bend instead of snap? Perhaps it is a psychological thing... I use wire gates to rack my cams, and after that I'll use them about anywhere I have to!
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Thanks for the clarification, MattP! I believe being an adept climber involves being able to adapt to different types of rock and styles of climbing. Hopefully, I've been exposed to something similar enough that I won't be completely out of my element! I will be sure to give Leavenworth 5.8s & 5.9s their due respect!
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Sandbags and snakes - sounds like the perfect mix for a little adventure! All those cracks are bolted, right?
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I have two days coming up in Leavenworth, and after looking through the guidebook I am feeling a bit overwhelmed - there is so much to climb there! So, in hopes of spending more time climbing and less time searching and gaping, I am looking for some suggestions for easy to moderate routes to climb while I'm there. I would prefer to try some granite cracks (I haven't even touched granite yet!), possibly even a short multi pitch... Thanks!
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WARNING: Dangerous when provoked. I thought PopTart wasn't up for getting down with a tongue whipping...
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quote: Originally posted by sk: (JK you can not answer)
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I've heard about both Outerspace and Orbit (how can you not?), but think they're both a bit too risky for sk and me to do together (kids to think about ). Thanks for all the info! Sounds amazing already... <-- Eating coffee and cinnamon buns...
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I have some recent info on Menagerie. If you're interested, send me a PM and I can arrange to have it delivered to you via top secret courier snaffles...
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The family vacation is rolling through WA next week, and we have managed to schedule in 2 days of kid-free climbing bliss at Leavenworth on the 16th and 17th of August. We'd love to meet some fellow cc.com personalities out there and do some climbing, so let us know if you're interested! How about a Leavenworth Pub Club the night of the 16th?
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quote: Originally posted by sk: jeez, I started to hyper ventalte for a seond there. Remember, the emergency meds are in the drawer... Please remember to take a few deep breathes from time to time, think pleasant thoughts of snaffles, and take breaks from the computer periodically.
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And it looks like his rope might have been a bit short, too...
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So, that's what happens when you go for a nude ascent...
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You wankers are spraying all over my legitimate topic!
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quote: Originally posted by Dru: lets have a new forum all about snafflehounds and horsecock Snafflehounds and horsecock are pervasive - they cannot be limited to a single forum!
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I know that the Grasslands, though free, provides the most uninspiring camping and the most dirt per square foot that I have ever experienced. And after paying $20 for a campsite for 4 people, and being told to quiet down at 10:00 pm, I have vowed never to return. This market research leads me to believe that there is a definite need for what you propose. I would recommend adding a slackline though... and perhaps a smoker's shack!
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To hell with Cogcentrix! They are the Devil in disguise, tempting you with the lure of easy money! The last thing you want is to have to answer to The Man and have them dictate to you how to operate your business. Smith was the birthplace of U.S. sport climbing, so what better place to start a climbing hostel? It's a good idea! Throw together a business plan and use it to get someone to invest some capital...
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quote: Originally posted by thelawgoddess: i wish!!! in all honesty, i can crank when there's a rope to follow but when it comes to leading i'm still looking for my balls. how about if i get you a backstage pass and 15 minutes alone with sheryl crow? I do have a full set of nuts, if that would help any? Though Sheryl Crow is one hot rocker chick (at least in my opinion), I have been around musicians long enough to know that it is the music that always comes first. Perhaps if there were a spunky rock climbing woman around to keep me company I could be convinced to at least maybe think about it... Ideally she would crank hard, have long dark hair, nice legs, and a good sense of humor.
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It's starting to sound enticing, but I just don't know yet... it is a looooong drive. And besides, even if I were a ropegun, I heard rumor that you don't really need one anyway!
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quote: Originally posted by texplorer: poser, wanker, boulderer, trask, loser, gumbie, sporty , hosehound = all equal terms of defamation Don't worry Tex - I thought I saw you sport climbing, but now I realize that it wasn't you.