jkrueger

So, where are the SWEET bouldering spots in Oregon? Hell, where are ANY bouldering spots? Here's all that I'm aware of: 1) Sisters Bouldering Area2) Green Peter Boulders3) Bandon Coast I know there have got to be more areas out there - spots you know of, developed, spotted from the road, or even heard rumors of...

As I'm in Eugene, a local pub club sounds like a fabulous idea. I can probably manage any day after 8 PM.

quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: Iceicebaby, watch out for BD first runs. Gives new meaning to being on the "bleeding edge" of technology.

As consumers, we need to speak to manufacturers in a language that they can easily understand - money. Vote with your dollars! If you don't like a company, don't buy their products. It's not like Black Diamond has a monopoly on gear - do your research, talk to friends, or try and find an unbiased review (good luck). If Black Diamond truly sucks, has horrible products, and terrible customer service, then there is no amout of damage control PR or slick advertising that can hide the fact - they will eventually go out of business. Everything I have from Black Diamond has lived up to my expectations, though I have heard horror stories regarding their customer service...

Just for the record, everything looks fine but I'm getting a JavaScript error on the main page (IE 5.0; Mac).

quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: So if the one from my hardware store says working load 500# thats rated? Who are you, the Devil's Advocate?

quote: i was re-reading your questions and i think if you put out exaclty what you are asking then a better answer could come about... In this case, answers have led to more questions... but I think it's been pretty well covered from many angles. Just trying to make the crags out there a bit safer and more unjoyable. quote: are you setting up a new anchor drilling holes and placing bolts and hangers?? are you replacing crappy webbing and rings?? Both - you have to deal with what you're given, which varies from situation to situation. I am of the opinion that I had better be prepared for the worst case scenario... Though it's not likely, what starts out as replacing crappy webbing can turn into drilling holes and placing bolts and anchors, so it's all relevant.

quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Exactly what does "rated" mean? The Petzl meets CE EN 12275 type Q standards, so in my book that counts as rated. Hardware that comes from a bin in a hardware store without stated minimum performance guarantees gets chalked up in my unrated category.

I hesitate to go out and get anything that I will be trusting my life to at a hardware store. However, it seems that unrated pieces of crap from the hardware store are acceptable components of a lowering station... Petzl makes a P15 Oval Quicklink that is rated, but the cost is outrageous and they're hard to find. MEC sells the Fixe 8mm Maillon for cheap. However, the price for getting them over the border into the US is insane. Doesn't anyone in the US carry these? That gives me the following options: Search like crazy and pay the Petzl premium Buy a lifetime supply from MEC to offset border crossing costs Walk to Home Depot with $5, leave with change and 2 unrated pieces of crap So, at what point does cheap and convenient become potentially life threatening? [ 02-12-2002: Message edited by: jkrueger ]

Thanks everyone for all of the excellent info - much appreciated! After grasping exactly what's involved and what can go wrong, I'm not about to start messing with an existing bolt until I am fully prepared to replace it with a new one in the event the worst should happen! As for quicklinks - does anyone have a good recommendation and source for these? Quicklinks don't seem to be everyday items that the local climbing shop will keep on hand.

Leave a sling, take a sling or two... that seems an excellent rule of thumb! As for stainless quick-links, that makes for an quick and easy (and relatively inexpensive compared to the electro-biner) solution when there are existing hangers. Now, regarding the rusty chains secured by a bolt and a washer... I was hoping I could just remove the nut, add one of those hanger & rap ring combos, and put the nut back on. But if this is going to diminish the strength of the setup by 1/2, as Matt hypothesizes, then it won't be so easy. Is it best to strip it down to the bare hole and start over with all new hardware? What if the hole is either too deep or shallow - should I have a drill on hand just in case? *Sexual pun not intended in the use of the words strip, hole, bare, deep or shallow. Smart ass retorts expected...

I agree that you shouldn't trust a huge nest of slings - who knows how old they are, how long they've been exposed, when the knots will slip, how your luck is holding, etc. So, if in doubt, I would take out the old ratty crap and replace it with something I trust. But even though this will get me down in the moment, I feel it just perpetuates the condition... Before you know it there's a whole nest of slings up there again and Dru's got more booty. What I'm looking for is the long-term solution to a station that is inadequate - do it once and do it right! So, if there is are two existing bolts, nuts, and hangers that are bomber, can you add a couple of quick-links in place of the existing webbing mess? What about quick-links and some rap rings? Are quick-links even suitable for such an application? What about corrosion if the metals are not all the same?

What's the best long-term solution for anchor hardware that does little to inspire one's confidence? I ran into this situation a couple of times last season on climbs at infrequently visited locales. One anchor consisted of 2 sets of rusting chains bolted to the rock and held in place by washers. The other contained multiple sets of slings tied through 2 hangers and what looked to be a hardware store rap ring. In both cases the bolts and/or hangers looked bomber, but everything else was questionable. The climbs are worthwhile, and I plan on returning, so I figure I might as well do something about the anchors while I'm there. Any suggestions?

I only read the first 5 pages of 20... [ 01-30-2002: Message edited by: jkrueger ]

quote: Originally posted by vegetablebelay: Duuuuuuuuude, the thread is in Spray and called Muir on Saturday from a couple months back. Thanks for the heads up - that's one extremely long and heated sprayfest of a thread! Respectfully, to each their own.

I searched the entire bbs for "pot", "bowl", or "smoke" and it returned nothing. Either the system has been tokin' it or the threads containing said Deja Vu were deleted - so I guess I missed out on that one... I can see the potential benefits of focus and relaxation, but the consequences for having a stoner moment are pretty damn steep!

So then (as this thread diverges more and more off topic), how do smoking bowls and climbing mix? References to the weed are scattered about this board, so I'm sure there's an opinion or two out there... Personally, I'm all for the herb, but would never endanger myself either climbing on lead or, worse yet, put a partner at risk with a baked belay. Seems like a quick way to redefine stoner!

Yes, that climb is a strange one indeed! I agree that the route is probably safer to lead - if you're the 2nd and fall after taking out that last piece of protection you're kinda screwed! And getting down to the anchors in the cave seems a bit sketchy - I too have seen the shoulder stand put to use! As for the foul fowl turds, nobody said anything... Thanks for the positive photo feedback! I'll be sure to get more next time...

Here are some Karate Crack photos from Smith Rock a couple of weeks back. Just a reminder that you can still catch enough sun to climb some rock in Oregon in the middle of winter!

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I am starting an outdoor magazine/website and am looking for climbing photos. This is an excellent opportunity to get your work seen, promote yourself, and inspire other climbers. If you've got the goods, let me know by sending an email to jason@neuralnova.com . Thanks!

The agreement page for the NWO bulletin board is basically the same (though shorter & less threatening) than the agreement for this board, yet you post here. What's up with the double standard?

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