jkrueger

It's been a spell . . . hard to go inside when it's so nice outside! But they do have air conditioning now, which is sounding really nice in the midst of this heat wave.

Fejas: I'd be game for checking out a local area with some potential. I killed my wire brush, though -- give me some time to get a replacement! Ry: None of the guys with the Sweet Home beta climb at The Crux anymore -- they all moved to the warehouse. What did you do, move to Portland?

There are some boulders right at the trailhead going up to the Callahans.

Bouldering in Eugene? But, if you're desperate enough to climb the bathroom walls . . . There are a couple of rock sculpture things in Amazon park to play around on. Though not quite bouldering, there are some slabs off the top of Spencer's Butte. I heard rumor there are some boulders in the middle of a field somewhere outside the town of Coburg (not to be confused with Coburg Caves) -- happy hunting! If it's true bouldering you want, you'll probably have to do some driving.

My partner gets really pissed off when I yank on his nuts like that. Nut tool = booty gear

Guidebooks. Lots of guidebooks!!!

Chalk (and a bag to keep it in).

Dru, the question isn't what YOU stand for . . .

We Are Satan's People

"Keep you cams on your rack and your nuts in your pants." ~ Texplorer

The style of the first ascent should be documented so that parties repeating the route can do so in the true style of the original ascent (if they so choose). It would also be beneficial to know if particular pitches were led by the tripper, the stoner, or the drunk so that repeating parties can medicate themselves accordingly.

I was in the parking lot of a home repair superstore trying like mad to slam a door closed. A lady in the parking lot walked over, nonchalantly said "you can never force anything," gently closed the door, and then continued on her way.

For some reason, Tex, this doesn't surprise me at all!

It actually has an approach hike, which serves to keep the masses away!

Basic Crunch Reverse Crunch Hip Up Hanging Leg Lifts Side Crunch Cross Crunch

"When you journey to the edge of human experience, you don't know what keeps you alive. So, as a corollary, you can't rule anything out." ~ M. Bane (Really) Risky Business: An excellent article on extreme risk assessment.

Listen to your intuition.

Sounds like a good way to lose that finger!

Ah, fun and danger. Of course the two are often one and the same, so the line between them is sketchy at best. There is much to be learned from direct experience and living with the consequences of one's actions. But then again, trips to the ER are never fun. As in all things, it's a matter of finding a balance which is unique to every ankle biter (until they get old enough to scare the shit out of themselves and wise enough not to tell you about it).

Ah, the mesa is known as The Rims. I grew up in Billings, and can't count the number of drug-induced underage drinking teenage angst with more than a touch of boredom fueled climbing epics up there. It's sandstone -- the kind that crumbles in your hands. It's a wonder I didn't die up there. But that was at a time before I used gear. There might be something cool up there . . . it's been a long time. The mountains, though! Why waste your time in the trashcan of Billings when the Rockies (and so much else) are right there?

Yeah, Flag is now in season.

Would it be like when we made plans to go to Smith and you bailed out at the last possible second without so much as the common decency to even let me know you were bailing out? That was pretty cool!

"He's more full of himself than an alpinist."

Implied meaning from context; definitely not deserving of the hostility it seems to have stirred up!

I think you're on the right track -- give it a slash rating and then let some opinions filter in. In talking to a few other route setters, this seems to be the standard practice. It might get easier as it gets cleaned up, or it might get harder . . .