sexual_chocolate

So Becky aids a route, adds bolts that are now rusty and beyond recognition, and says they can't be replaced? Oh good lord, someone's having some mortality issues, no? "I will build a statue in my image, and none shall...."

Hey Rudy, you're too fat to be tossed, so relax already.

I had some qualms about it. If I was the one bolting it, would I have done what the FA did? I don't know....I'd have to think about it. My feeling is that I would have added a bolt at the start, perhaps two, and would have replaced the old 1/4" at the crux. From where to where was the route free-climbed before? From below the lower roof to the jump crux? From above the lower roof?

The route I am thinking of is a right facing seam similar in difficulty to SPM. It's to the left of the top-out of Model Worker complete. There is a reason for the question mark after the name. And, it wasn't a claim, it was a statement of fact: Dwarf Tosser WAS the best new route at Index (no quotes needed). And it wasn't retro-bolted because before bolting, it didn't exist. Don't overlook this fact. Have you climbed it yet?

And furthermore(!), there are other climbs similar in nature that are "safer"; Frog Pond(?) at Index comes to mind.

And contrary to what Flashclimber says, I think it IS a good idea to try to get some feed-back regarding retro-bolting. I know there are a lot of gumbies chiming in with their anti-bolt rhetoric while arm-chair climbing (you can usually tell who they are by their high-pitched whining and emotive outbursts), but please sort through the arguments and really think about this issue deeply. My suggestion: let's let some routes be as they are, as they were climbed by the first ascensionist, and if we feel uncomfortable on them, let's not instantly and reactively bring them down to our comfort level by adding bolts. Maybe we can really think about the route as it exists in its present form, and how we might be able to climb it while adapting to ITS specifics, instead of trying to adapt it to ours. I think adding a bolt would simply be serving our Instant Gratification culture, where we want our fun and we want it now.

I've been on it years ago, and yes the start was heady. Last pro before the bolt was a cam in horizontals, if memory serves correctly. My feeling is that a bolt shoud NOT be placed, unless something has changed dramatically (and it sounds like it hasn't). I remember the start being scary, but much much easier than anything above, so it serves as a good filter.

Walk at 3 mph for 24 hours. Not that bad.

So when's the last time this happened? This thinking is folly, an attempt to legitimize the sanitation of a sport that has ALWAYS had potential dangers. For some, it's an appeal, a decision of sorts regarding whether or not they live or die (the ultimate decision perhaps). I can't believe this argument really. Let's make climbing adhere to OSHA standards, is what it amounts to, a bureaucratic sanitization of a sport born of individual vision and attainment. Sad, and unacceptable.

Please don't elide the fact that the democrats (Kerry included, see above), gave unequivocal support for Bush before it became politically expedient to oppose his actions. I continue to be appalled by the demise of the Democratic party, and its abandonment of its core values.

Sounds like it's more the mental aspects of dreaded "homelessness" and the associated fears that are getting you down. I can certainly empathize; this isn't a society or culture that seems to look kindly upon those in that position, and feelings of shame and embarrassment can run rampant. But. I wonder if a slight perceptual shift might help to turn around your thinking? Can you start to view this as an adventure, an opportunity? I know people who have CHOSEN homelessness, one fellow finishing two years of college whilst living in his vw van. I lived under a tree by UW campus for a month (showers and climbing nearby!). Any interest in Buddhism? This could be a great opportunity to go on a retreat close to your present location at northwest vipassana center. 10 days, entirely donation-based (pay what you can), and profound. I might have some work available coming up, if you can handle doing general construction related stuff. Hard work, potentially decent pay. Anyway, it sounds like everything's gonna be fine in your life. you've got training in something that has job availability, and seattle is certainly an area with plenty of opportunities.

thanks for the info and pm's. And now, in three minutes or so, we're off!

The road to California finds me upon it soon, as I head to LA for a seminar. On the way back, anshallah, we will be stopping in the Trinity Alps for a week of restoration and perhaps climbing. Anyone have any experience in this part of the west? Any info would be most appreciated. We'll be getting a guide-book of course, but any first-hand accounts would be great to hear.

My understanding is it's "Moroles". Sad that he isn't climbing anymore (if true), since he was the most graceful and fluid climber I have had the opportunity to witness and climb with.

fuck your warped self-image; let's go climb.

Anyone down for a session out in Vantage Tuesday Wednesday or Thursday? I'm trying an open project, maybe 13c or so, and you're more than welcome to join in vying for FA. There are other climbs with easier grades close by also. ok temps, with it being in a shady cave, plus river is nearby.

One of the better lines at Vantage, and perhaps the hardest. This is the reason I wanted to make at least some effort of finding out about the equiper, even though I personally feel fine about climbing a route that's been someone's red-tag for ~3 years. Maybe Moroles, but I doubt he'd even red-tag something. Anyway, thanks for the info.

So anyone know what's up with the route in the cave below Middle East wall, above the main road past the parking lot? Cool route that seems to have been claimed for the last three years or so, which seems a bit extensive if you ask me. Sounds like an open project, unless someone's got some info....

Well I just had two bowls of Breyer's ice cream for breakfast! Mmmmmmm ice cream for breakfast.... But I suppose putting weight on inside my arteries isn't the best place for it.

I think Dave Moroles freed it for the FA. Dave I believe also soloed slow children (yikes!)

Oooh but it's minimal and at an oblique angle (the sun) and it's cold and fingers freeze and fall off. Brrrrrrr....

Type-writers on a hang-board; pull-ups on a hang-board; timed sets on a hang-board. Pump and Power. Such fun. Isolations, etc. Spring-loaded clampy devices? Bah! (Although I could see a properly designed gadget develop mad pinch strength....)

Whose is this? Bush's? No, Silly; an analysis of Kaskadkthhdikjk's.

Relatively strong in verbal skills (while overlooking the occasional grammatical error or misspelled word); strong on reasoning within a limited context of simplistic ideologically-driven sound-bites (tendentious to a fault); Math: quite strong, since rote learning methodologies seem to favor individuals with a propensity towards an unquestioning reactionary streak. 1320 on SAT. (610 verbal, 710 math.) (I did better though. )

Hey you big bullies leave ascensionist.com alone. Haven't you done enough harm by ostracizing them? You just hurt and hurt and hurt and hurt....Insensitive cantankerous violent maniacs have feelings too, you know.