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sexual_chocolate

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Everything posted by sexual_chocolate

  1. i second Walk on the Wild Side (if it's the multi-pitch on Saddle Rock). Awesome fun climb!
  2. a toss-up. check historical weather patterns, but my experience has been that both can be warm or cold and windy or calm or snowing or sunny this time of year. but i've always gotten to climb in both places, regardless of weather. camping's a wash.
  3. are you makin fun of my skinny ass? ok let's see, 170 pounds divided by 74 inches = 2.297 pounds per inch. and for you: 120 pounds divided by 60 inches = 2 pounds per inch. hey wait a minute: who's the scrawny ass here?!?!?!?
  4. what were they? as in the lifting exercises? btw i mainly did the lifting thing cuz i had a bum finger, but ended up getting really into it, and was psyched and surprised at how much it helped.
  5. if grippers work for ya, then stick to 'em (although i'm curious what exactly that might mean here). although i've never seen anyone who climbs at a high standard recommend 'em, except for warming up.
  6. hmmmm, i don't know what you mean by "training like a body builder", but i KNOW that when i did a 6 month weight lifting cycle, my climbing improved. but here's the rub: i adapted climbing-specific movements to lifting, and did hardly anything beyond these, except for military and bench press (i got a lot of funny looks at the gym). everything was geared towards heavy weight, with sets at 80% to 90% and reps around 2 to 5 (multiple sets, maybe 8 to 10), and i worked my ass off. but again, the exercises i chose seemed to make sense, as did the rep counts. it helped my climbing (became much more comfortable at the 5.13 level, no more joint pains or tendinitis), and i went from a skinny 160 pounds to a lean 170. i can still drop to 165 easily, and the added strength is never unwanted. as to throwing away the gripper exercisers above, that i would pretty much completely agree with. i think it would be much more effective to use the pinch grips on any decent hangboard, versus the grippers (which generally do little in terms of mimicking actual climbing forces and movements).
  7. my favorite tele ski is a snowboard.
  8. i think the hypocrisy of the democratic position on a number of issues is self-evident, as it is with the republicans. remember that is it wasn't for the democrats' compliance, we would probably not be in iraq right now (as an occupying force).
  9. nope, never been on it. heard it was a hard slab crux. is that where the hold broke?
  10. prolly bongo fury, just right of crack babies. steep start roof with holes going into vertical face....
  11. Mmmmmmmmmm, plastic!
  12. those are belay bolts.
  13. Yes. No. Not if they have been sitting on it for over 6 months without even trying it. No, not if they have been trying it for over a year and are still not close. A year seems the limit regardless, although i'd say 6 mo's. good lord, i can't believe i'm still writing in this damn thread. i don't think my life is ever going to be affected by any of these considerations, since if i find a route that's been sitting for a long time, i'll get on it, and if i bolt a line and someone snakes it, i don't give a flying fuck.
  14. fuck punk its just music. one of my favorites. from Love is Love cd. MvWklgOa5sU
  15. caveat: the lines i poached were merely boulder problems, rather obscure. i've stayed off people's bolted lines, unless they started to fester and spoil.
  16. this is a given in my book, with the only question being how long is long enough. i once gave a person 6 months on a line he equipped AFTER it had been sitting red-tagged for maybe 4 years or so. i actually felt a little guilty about it, but come on, someone's gotta climb a cool line! i've also snaked lines from friends just after they found them; so there! oh and i've had lines climbed before i could get them, alas. the pain the pain! but i'd never get my panties in a bunch if someone climbed a line i'd bolted, especially if i'd had a few months to try it.
  17. here's another good link: http://www.mikedoyle.ca/climbing/coachingdoc.pdf
  18. fair enough. in that situation i would probably do the same thing, and just to turn the heat up a little, say that i would be trying it in a few months (since sitting on a route for over a year is kinda lame).
  19. can credibility points dive into negative numbers? i don't know.... the aaj is fairly credible, as far as alpinism goes. cheers!
  20. but is there ANY evidence suggesting that a pulley or like injury can lead to OA? Like i said, in One Move Too Many it is noted that climbers tend to have lower incidences of OA than non-climbers.
  21. what if said route had now sat for 1 year without being climbed, and yes it was a beautiful line and others want to climb it. Is it considerate of the one who found it to say that others may not get on it?
  22. saw these guys in tofino 2 years ago, and close to 20 years ago in seattle at the metropolis. QgBiTisZC3o
  23. Stand still will ya?
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