JayB

Dear God! Someone must have infected me with the quadruple posting virus

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quote: Originally posted by JayB: I read several more articles after the one you posted (thanks, by the way)and from what I've read it seems that with the respect to deliberate transmission of smallpox to indians via infected blankets: 1. The only instance in which anyone has been able to find evidence that such a practice actually occured involved a letter from an English general to one of his subordinates during the French and English war. Scholars have not been able to determine whether or not they actually attempted to kill indians in this manner or not. 2. The germ theory disease did not gain wide acceptance until the late 1880s/early 1890s. There was no consensus concerning how diseases were spread, nor was there a popular consensus concerning whether or not inanimate objects could transmit any disease, nor could those wishing to spread smallpox in this manner have any assurance that the infection would be contained to Indians. 3. There was a widespread effort on the part of the US government to innoculate the native population once knowledge of this technique became widespread.

I read several more articles after the one you posted (thanks, by the way)and from what I've read it seems that with the respect to deliberate transmission of smallpox to indians via infected blankets: 1. The only instance in which anyone has been able to find evidence that such a practice actually occured involved a letter from an English general to one of his subordinates during the French and English war. Scholars have not been able to determine whether or not they actually attempted to kill indians in this manner or not. 2. The germ theory disease did not gain wide acceptance until the late 1880s/early 1890s. There was no consensus concerning how diseases were spread, nor was there a popular consensus concerning whether or not inanimate objects could transmit any disease, nor could those wishing to spread smallpox in this manner have any assurance that the infection would be contained to indians. 3. There was a widespread effort on the part of the US government to innoculate the native population once knowledge of this technique became widespread.

Yo SC: Did you read through that link?

quote: Originally posted by sexual chocolate:

quote: [QB] Btw, if Cheney did nothing wrong at Halliburton, then why is the SEC bothering to investigate? Why did they take a year to report the changes? [QB] Not sure - here's the full story. Still think the reaction has been way overblown.... From cnn.com The oil field drilling company said after the market close Tuesday that the investigation apparently involves a change in the way it accounted for contracts after a merger with Dresser Industries. Cheney served as CEO of Halliburton from 1995 until he was named to the Republican national ticket in July 2000. After the 1998 merger the company began recognizing as revenue and accounts receivable the amount of money it expected to be collectible from customers for changes or cost overruns that occurred during the course of completing contracts. Details of the change in accounting procedures at Halliburton were highlighted in an article in the New York Times last week. The Halliburton statement said it believes the article prompted the probe. Halliburton spokeswoman Wendy Hall said changes in the way contracts were handled in the industry during the late 1990s prompted the change in accounting treatment of disputed charges and cost overruns. She said other engineering and construction firms use the same accounting procedures instituted by Halliburton in 1998. Accounting issues have gained significantly more attention from investors since last fall when energy trader Enron Corp. filed for bankruptcy amid questions about its accounting practices and the validity of its reported results. Related stories Halliburton settles claims Cheney leaves firm richer Cheney gets A's as CEO Hall could not give an estimate for how much was recorded by Halliburton under the changes in the accounting practice. The New York Times story that apparently prompted the SEC probe reported that more than $100 million in charges were involved. The company's statement said it is cooperating with the SEC investigation and believes the probe will show it did nothing wrong. "The company has continued this accounting treatment of similar items since 1998 and has never recorded a profit on a job where an unapproved claim or change order has been recorded in revenue," said the company's statement.

quote: Originally posted by JGowans: quote:. The blind eye to cheating among elites is prevalent in Western nations too. How else do you explain Enron, Tyco, Sotheby's, or even Cheney's questionable business practices at Halliburton? [/QB] Not sure how the scandals associated with Tyco, Encron, and a few other corportations equals the populace turning a "Blind Eye" to cheating here. The only reason that you're even aware of these situations is because we have institutions in place to detect and punish such behavior. The reason we have them is that the public demands them, which suggests that as a society we have hardly embraced turning a blind eye to corruption as our prevailing ethos. The fact of the matter is that no system for detecting and punishing fraud will be perfect. Take the sheer number of corporations in this country, mix in a bit of human nature and its a given that you'll have a few corporations breaking the rules, and that it will take a while before their activities are detected. And as far as Cheney's activities at Halliburton are concerned, I've been amazed by the sheer number of people who have made reference to these "questionable practices" without having any idea whatsoever what the practices in question were. At Halliburton it was their practice to take projected cost overruns - money that would be owed and eventually paid to them by the folks employing their services - and increase their revenue projections by the amount of the cost overruns. Scary stuff indeed. It's amazing to me to witness some folks on left -who I agree with a lot of the time and on many issues - passionately decrying something like this accounting business at Halliburton in one breath, then shrugging off the 50 million souls snuffed out under Stalin and Mao in the next. Capitalism will never be perfect, but it's a hell of a lot better than anything else out there. [ 11-25-2002, 04:52 PM: Message edited by: JayB ]

I wish I could say that the very nature of Islam made its followers more prone to violence than other religions, but I can't honestly say that that's the case. Read up on the history of Islam a bit and you'll see that Islam only became associated with a high level of political violence when Arab nationalists used their fellow citizen's identity as muslims as a rallying point in their efforts to get rid of the colonial powers that dominated their countries, or the regimes that the former colonial powers installed after their departure. This is not to say that SOC's statements are untrue, but I think that there's a lot going on the middle-east other than Islam that's making the region violent. Good History of the Middle East "A History of the Arab Peoples" by Albert Hourani. Interesting Reading on the Corrolation between Islam and Political Violence: "The Clash of Civilizations" by Samuel Huntington.

quote: Originally posted by JayB: quote:Originally posted by Dru: quote:Originally posted by JayB: Plenty o' ice on the Coleman, although it's kinda gritty, and getting mighty brittle these days.... And covered with 3 feet of snow. Yeah - it's getting there. Bare ground at the parking lot, an inch or two on the trail unti about 1/2 mile away from the glacier, with about 1/4 mile of intermittent postholing (I am the great postholio!!!) on the way to the glacier as of last Sunday - with anywhere from 6-18' on the surface of the glacier. Not ideal conditiions but might suffice if you're getting desperate. Good place to use the old-school $7 picks from REI if you've got some BD tools.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: quote:Originally posted by JayB: Plenty o' ice on the Coleman, although it's kinda gritty, and getting mighty brittle these days.... And covered with 3 feet of snow. Yeah - it's gettimg there. Bare ground at the parking lot, an inch or two on the trail unti about 1/2 mile away from the glacier, with about 1/4 mile of intermittent postholing (I am the great postholio!!!) on the way to the glacier as of last Sunday - with anywhere from 6-18' on the surface of the glacier. Not ideal conditiions but might suffice if you're getting desperate. Good place to use the old-school $7 picks from REI if you've got some BD tools.

Plenty o' ice on the Coleman, although it's kinda gritty, and getting mighty brittle these days....

Useful info includes cool boulder problems in the v3 range on the UW wall....

11/14 Just bringing this sucker back up to the top after reading many posts on taxes, Israelis vs. Palestinians, etc. I hereby propose the following tax: For every five posts you make concerning the topics mentioned above, and/or gun control, property rights, etc. one must post one useful piece of climbing info/beta/lore in this thread or a related counterpart.

I'm just posting to back up what chucK and mattp and others have said, and hope that others who feel the same way will step up and make their voice heard. I have no problem with spray, which has its place - just not in the middle of every thread, with no regard whatsoever for nature of the topic. I hope the day will never come when someone shares their feelings about the aftermath of an accident or something of that nature with the other members of the board and someone's chiming in with stupid shit two posts later, but I'm starting to wonder. [ 11-09-2002, 09:32 AM: Message edited by: JayB ]

Unless something changes I'll be over at Vantage this weekend Sunday-Monday with a friend of mine who's getting ready to start leading trad (and some others). I'd be willing to go over some anchors and stuff after we're done climbing Sunday night if you're in the neighborhood.

I bought a pair of Rambocomps from them last year and I think it took about 5 days or so for them to make it to Colorado from Europe. Not too bad, and quite a bit less expensive than shipping via DHL. Anyone considering buying big-ticket technical gear might want to consider plunking down the cash soon, as it sounds like rather than modify their business practices so that they can compete with Europeans reatilers, the middlemen in the US are focusing their efforts on cutting off our access to the European market - and succeeding. No surprise there, but dissapointing nonetheless. I think it'll only be a few months before they succeed in cutting off that channel completely. Enjoy the reasonably priced gear while you can.

Werd. I might be in the neighborhood over the weekend. I'll have to take a look and see if where the active seeps are that might freeze over later. If those things come in that'd be nice. Might take some pressure off of the stuff around banks lake. I'll post more info if I see anything that might get interesting when it gets colder....

The way I'm reading the surf forecasts for 11/8 is looks like they're predicting 50-60 foot faces on the waves for a few hours. Is that for real? Or did I just misread the data in a massive way?

"Charlet Moser Quark Ice Axe, incl strap The Top model from Charlet Moser is a tuff competitor to The Top Machine from Grivel and is a beautiful combination of balance and power. incl. Saf´Lock wristloop Our price: $155.33US" That's unless you want to go leashless with Los Ergos..

Dude; Have you tried www.sportextreme.com? Are they not shipping Grivel Stuff over here?

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: One may also argue that it is possible to climb thin ice, or fat ice without "bashing it into submission." It's called technique. Anyone know where I can buy some of that? I heard it's way cheaper if you order it from Europe over the internet...

"The UIAA tests axes in a variety of pulling and bending processes, and rates them either B (basic) or T (technical). Basic axes will meet the needs of snow mountaineering (self-arrest, boot-axe belays, glacier climbing, chopping, etc.) but may not have the strength to withstand high-impact forces like those generated during waterfall-ice climbing. Technical axes can withstand these greater forces" I think that some of the thinner picks out there a la the CM cascade (?) may carry the B-rating. I don't think the rating would make much difference for someone like myself, but might matter to someone who abuses their shiznit while dry tooling, etc it might.

REI (seattle store)has a box of old T-rated BD picks for $7 a pop. They were originally designed for the Shrike, but they'll work with any BD tool. Not a bad deal if you're looking for a spare pick to bring along during trips, etc.