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Trip: Leavenworth Snow Creek Wall - Hyperspace Date: 5/17/2014 Trip Report: Dr. Tom Michael, Mark Shaffer and I took our turn on Hyperspace on Snow Creek Wall. A very busy Snow Creek Wall. The wall, Outer Space in particular, was as busy as I've ever seen it. As we were rapping down, the upper headwall crack of O/S had a string of humanity slowly jamming its way up. We even had some traffic on Iconoclast, but it wasn't nearly as bad and we all moved along efficiently. Combined with Iconoclast (Psychopath, Yellow Wall), Hyperspace may be Washington's best multi-pitch crag offering of sustained cracks. Maybe I'm wrong. Just my very biased opinion. Anyway, attached below are a few shots from the day of the Pressure Chamber, and even a little "beta" video about how to climb it without doing the miserable overhanging squeeze chimney. Dr. Tom after the difficulties. Mark pulling through. It's a cramped belay stance for two, even more so with three. But it's nice to hang out an chat about the route, life, etc... Tom tackling the final little pitch to the top. Even this last pitch is fun. One of the better spring days so far this year. And no ticks were found or harmed in the making of this TR. [video:youtube]

My guess would be this route with a huge, nearly detached chockstone 3/4 of the way up the crack, being held up by a wafer thin sliver of basalt. It's jut plain scary...

Up for trade is a pair of 5.10 Anasazi Velcro, size 12.5, and a pair of Moccasyms, size 12. Trade both pairs for (2) six packs of Sierra Nevada Torpedo IPA. As you can see from the photo I am running low. Piece of shit biner shown in photo is included, and if I'm feeling especially generous, I may even squirt some Febreeze in the shoes. I am in Cashmere and not willing to ship the shoes. Meet me in Leaveworth or Vantage or in the general area if you're interested. Send PM or email: touring29@gmail.com John

Anyone want to do a couple routes on Saturday? I'd prefer to link Hyperspace up with something else. I can lead all of it but would prefer a competent partner who could move reasonably efficient. PM me or email: touring29@gmail.com Thanks! John

It was a beautiful day out, with a bit of a biting breeze.

Trip: Snow Creek Wall - Outer Space & Iconoclast Date: 4/27/2014 Trip Report: My buddy Loren Foss and I couldn't decide on a rematch with a ski tour of Mt. Cashmere vs. a day of sunny cragging on Snow Creek Wall. It's the classic WA springtime dilemma: Ski or Climb? Or both? You saw the title of this TR, so you know what we chose. And why go all that way up there for just one route? Iconoclast is always a good challenge early season and usually shows me my relative climbing shape. We started climbing Outer Space by 9:30am up the RPM roof, easily one one of the best of the 3 options to 2-Tree Ledge. The climbing up to and over the small roof is challenging and sustained. Looking down after just pulling the small roof. We zoomed on up after RPM, with the blessings of a nice couple who let us pass. And how can you ever get tired of 300' of perfect handcrack! We got to the top after 2 hrs 50 mns of climbing, lounging in the sun and leaving a two course meal of electrolytes for the SCW locals on top. We zipped on down, had a brief break, then had to cajole sore toes and legs back into action for Iconoclast. The route is kinda like Hyperspace Lite with three very, very good pitches of memorable climbing: Psychopath, Yellow Wall and the traverse pitch out onto the shield chickenheads. Loren following Psychopath. The slightly overhanging Yellow Wall pitch is probably the highlight of Iconoclast, and always has me coming back for more each year. And the runout climbing on the shield after the traverse is equally as engaging. Once again we caught a break when a couple on Library Ledge allowed us to climb by them. All said and done, with not a lot of downtime, we topped out after 3 1/2 hours of climbing. As for ticks, there were a couple but certainly not in the number Cfire and I encountered two weeks ago. I pulled one off the back of my neck. Their numbers are tolerable now and should not deter anyone from heading up SCW.

I wonder if that plug of rock (granite?) just a few hundred yards south, sitting above the rock quarry, is also on private land.

Is there a story with Fred and pickles? When we picked him up he kept talking about a big bag of candy he had in his rucksack. He mentioned the bag of candy again when we got to the trailhead. He finally pulled it out when we got to Clamshell... and it was just a huge bag of raisins! Wtf, worst candy ever, and I thought my grandmother's butterscotch was bad! This is funny!

If Peregrines can survive in New York City then I'm pretty sure they can survive in Sanctuary Cave at Vantage without a voluntary closure, no? Not doing too bad in San Francisco either.

Totally. Today's stretch material only goes so far.

Good info Sol. Thanks. I may wander in to Conf. Health at some point soon.

The crazy thing about frostbite/nip is how incredibly insidious it is. Pretty much unnoticeable until the appendage starts to warm again. Then hoo boy. Let the fun begin. And apparently the gift keeps on giving years later.

Yup. I can still climb, just lingering pain if I overdo it. Frostbite is nasty business. Highly not recommended.

In an unfortunate turn of events two winters ago, I got minor frostbite on the tips of my middle and index fingers of the right hand. The tissue seems to have healed up completely, though the tips of both fingers remain slightly numb. In a month and a half of steady climbing this season, I'm experiencing a burning sensation on the same fingertips, both during and after climbing, usually coming when I climb multiple days in a row. I was just wondering what other climbers here have experienced in long term pain after getting frostbite. Does the pain eventually go away, or is it a permanent consequence of the frostbite? Thanks.

I just saw it yesterday. There's still about 2 feet of snow and rime ice covering the entire face. Check back in June. Feel free to share my response to everyone you know in the Seattle metro area and beyond.

In mid-winter conditions for the NBC, it's super easy to just ascend the glacier, summit Colchuck and drop in from the top. That way you get the bonus of skiing the NW Face and avoid the waist deep slogging up from the bottom of the couloir. Also nice to see a healthy snowpack up there. Thanks for posting the photos.

Climbing, climbing and climbing. Nothing else is remotely satisfying.

I didn't see cooler full of beer. Sierra Nevada Torpedo preferably. I also bring a few heavy duty pain pills (percocet/vicodin) for just in case moments. Not sure entirely necessary... Nice list!

Since we're getting hammered with rain and snow, I thought I'd throw in a little rock teaser. It's Spring in Yosemite at least. Following are a few photos to get you looking forward to clean, sun-warmed (insert favorite rock type here)climbing! Passing shenanigans on Pitch 1. Nice guys aiding the first pitch, gave me the green light to "climb over the top of him" so we could get to Dolt Tower. Pitch 2 of The Nose is possibly the trickiest climbing on the route. The moves after the lowerout are particularly attention getting. Pitch 4 Candidate for best pitch on planet Earth? Option C on the traverse to the Stovelegs is the way to do it. Smiles for climbing in T-shirts on El Cap in February.

Saddle rock is the most obvious. The trails around the Peshastin pinnacles. Let's crag this spring if you get some free time mid week!

badass.

I have video onsighted a lot of hard climbs in my career, so I'm going to agree with Jens on this one regarding the grade.

Jake's one of a kind. But politely decline if he offers to take lead shots of you at Vantage. Nice trip you guys!

C'mon! Doesn't Jake the Brit get a shout out?!