telemarker

That C4 will come out easily if someone takes a little can of Wd-40 up there. There's plenty of cam space left to extract it. As for other pieces, there's only a mangled 1st gen. .75 camalot fixed in the headwall crack these days. Not too bad for the traffic O/S gets.

You need to take more trips JasonG. Your photos raise the stock value of this website! Thanks for posting.

Nice list Tony. Although, I'm confused by this: I find the crux slab move on P2 over the bulge to be honest to goodness 5.10 and quite heady, as well as the terrain and moves getting to that crux move. The slab climbing after that bolt is top notch and also heads up. P1 of Mr. Tremendous is fun climbing too, and the entire route is a great seguey to Hello Kitty and the quality climbing on upper 8 Mile Buttress and Smorgasbord Crag.

You guys are on a roll! Thanks for the hard work. Not to stir up an old controversy but...How about placing a bolt where the fixed pin used to be on Dan's Dreadful Direct, and also replacing the old "Beckey Bolt" on the upper portion of that route? I get that this route was sport bolted then chopped. I'm not advocating the bolts be replaced, however, maybe a bolt can replace the pin that used to protect the crux of the route. From Dan Lepeska, first ascentist of DDD, excerpted from the above thread: Indeed, John's point of view, that the existing manky old fixed pin on Damnation Crack did contribute to some level of safety for the crux section of the route, is an accurate statement. It was an ackward clip, but it was also a critical piece of protection. Personally, I have no problem with the addition of a good bolt in a location that would be in about the same area as the original pin. One bolt is more than adequate. Additional bolts to make a sport climb of this route is not acceptable. In fact, his entire response, eloquent and gracious as it is, is well worth reading. I've top roped this climb numerous times, and would not know where the old pin used to be that he talks about. I'm an guessing it was probably within the first 15 to 20' of climbing. After that, there are plenty of opportunities for natural pro. So, I guess my suggestion would be to add two bolts: One "in about the same area" where the fixed pin used to be and replace the ancient bolt that is on the last 1/3 of the route.

Any TR from JasonG and I prepare myself for a wonderful photo onslaught! Thanks for posting!

I thought for a bivi you wrap yourself in peat moss and pine boughs with your wet socks for a pillow? What I heard anyway...

Excellent! Thanks Kurt!

¡Excelente!

Nice report Sam. Your TR is borderline material for the Random Climbing Partner Stories thread Glad you were able to salvage some stellar skiing! Thanks for posting!

Nice knab Dan! Next time take your ice tools and beefy crampons and climb the NE Face first.

Bumpy bump for price drop.

Why not climb it using the 3rd option, climbing to the top of the Hidden Couloir out onto the NW Face, then connect with the 3rd couloir? Sure, not the classic ice of the runnels, but at least you get to top out on D-tail.

The shoes are in excellent shape with a nice sharp edge still. They have not been resoled. 44.5 just too small for my bone spurred riddled toes. $70 includes shipping. PM or email touring29@gmail.com. John

The weather is shaping up. Here's my weekly plea for a climbing partner. Last weekend was fun climbing. Ideally, I'd love to get in a bunch of laps on the varied routes of Castle Rock. I'd be happy to be the ropegun! Prefer it in fact. I don't like cleaning gear. Send a PM or Email: touring29@gmail p.s., don't kid yourself. The snow will suck this weekend. Go climbing instead! John

God bless Washington.

And this is the proof! The first tick of the season, found yesterday evening on Upper Castle Rock.

haha, cause you know - there's nothing else good about nh! no granite to climb in summer, or anything like that... the baby stayed with his grandparents in connecticut this time. he'll stick to skiing for now Hmmm...maybe I'm thinking of Vermont.

The forecast looks decent. Warm enough to climb on some good routes on Upper Castle Rock. Send a PM my way if you want to get a good workout in this Sunday, or email: touring29@gmail John

Well at least New Hampshire has that going for it. Did you take the child up a few pitches in his Kelty Kid carrier? Nice photos and well done!

I almost cried when I read this! Finally, someone not using the lame, "never taken a fall," as a selling point.

Good discussion here for those who are interested.

Free/french free majority and the odd pitch of standing in aiders.

Specifically, the differences between the 5.10 Anasazi High Tops vs. the LS TC Pro vs. the Evolv Astroman high tops. Anyone out there who has tried all three, or even two of the three, to provide an informed opinion about the strengths and weaknesses between them for an all day shoe? Are the performance differences more subtle than the price differences? I get the impression that the TC Pros are becoming the gold standard all day shoe, but at a significant price jump from the 5.10's and Evolvs. Any first-hand, or even second-hand info would be appreciated!

Self-portrait skinning up Cloudy Peak with North Face of Fortress behind.

This made me laugh. The varsity squad sends again! You guys inspire. Now I want to ski something again. In daylight and warm temps. Heal up Ryan, although I think you can still climb with a messed up bicep, no?