Terminal_Gravity

"GET HIGH HERE" Graffiti chisled into the stucco of the back wall of the gym at my highschool in south Los Angeles where the surfers hung out. The irony was that it was right next to an adjoining pillar that formed a wide fist crack that led 15' up to a six inch ledge. Manteling on to that you could reach a solid pipe drain. A couple of quick lie back moves allowed you to reach a shallow finger crack from which you could pull to a vent pipe and reach the roof about 35 feet up. The surfers never climbed it but after spending afternoons at Stony Point and weekends at Suicide & Taquitz I finally soloed it in my junior year. To think that I didn't really understand what they were talking about until college at Humboldt State.

I am going to have to be the contrarian here. Good advise above, particularly about drinking water. 4 liters a day minimum on rest days above 14k + more on movement days. Mr Happy is right on about Diamox. I think that unless you absolutly know how you perform at this altitude; 17 days is the absolute minimum. That being said; altitude can even bite someone in the butt that did fine at similar hights on a prior trip. Here is my rational: States to Lima - day 1 Lima to Huarez ( 10,500) - day 2 2 days in Huarez ( and yes it is a fun town, but you need that much time to acclimate and get the logistics taken care of) - day 4 1000 ft a day to high camp ( I like 3000 ft in one day and rest 2, this seems to let me skip the extra rest day) even this schedule may be too fast but you almost certainly can't go faster. - that puts you to day 12 one rest day at High camp - day 13 summit day - day 14 two days to get back to Huarez - day 16 one day to Lima and catch a red eye back to the states - day 17 (more likely 18 'cause I doubt you'll find a red eye) I think this is a very optomistic schedule for some one coming from sea level and does not allow any room for any problems, conditions, weather, aclimitization or logistics. It also assumes that every member of the party is able to acclimitize fast. The Cordillara Blanca are wonderful mountains. I spent 5 1/2 weeks on my trip to them, climbed several peaks and wished I had more time. I think it would be a shame to rush a trip and most likely fail because you left no margin for error. I do recommend having Dexamethazone (4mg pills) in your kit, and I would consider taking 200mg diamox before bed from Huarez on. And absolutely know how to recognize early HAPE & HACE symptoms. When in doubt go down, even at night draging your sick buddy if that's what it takes.

This is a bit anectidotal but about 20 years ago I had a a little run in with a Yosimite rescue dude. As a joke a friend of mine had some cheap shirt made that said Yosimite rescue team printed in big letters on the back. I'm not one to turn down a free shirt. I was on Beacon rock a few years back and was behind some slow but reasonably competant climbers. I did my normal thing of trying to climb extremely fast and smooth when approaching a slower party. I timed it perfectly and blazed up to the second about fifteen feet below the first belay ledge and chatted friendly like and without pressure to the ledge at which point I said we would like to pass if they didn't mind. They were reluctant at first but made a complete 180 all of a sudden and invited us to pass. My partner and I simulclimbed a little way to get out of their way and I belayed him past them before they had a chance to get slowed up. From above I heard them saying something like, whoa that guy is from Yosimite. I was wearing that tired old shirt. Apparently they had read the shirt at the ledge and that (for some reason) convinced them to let me pass. Maybe we should all get "speed climbing champion" printed on some shirts?! Seriously, I am a smooth leader but not really all that fast, but have had to pass plenty of parties through the years. I have had very good luck with the tecnique of holding back a bit and then blazing up to them just before a belay, being friendly but telling them that I am " going to pass, if they don't mind". This is better than a yes or no question like "Can I pass?". Last August I climbed Exum on the Grand Teton and passed 19 people with no problems or hurt feelings using this method. [ 04-10-2002: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

Yeah, I did talk to Cascade and they were cool, and they plan to talk to the retailer. My best guess is that if I talk to the retailer I will just get into a un-satisfing pissing match. They don't have an 800 number, nor am I in Hood River very often. I suppose that talking to them is the ethical thing to do but I just don't have the inclination to spend more of my time or money with some piece of shit manager over what amounts to a trivial matter. I will never shop there again and chalk it up to a "buyer beware" learning experience. That being said; I think that, like WillStrickland's post about good experiences, it is worth while for us to share experinces so that we can learn from each other and hopefully not repeat errors.

For what it's worth...I purchased a thermarest (3/4 ultralight) from Second Wind Sports in Hood River. I paid just $1.50 less than full MSRP and it turned out to be an "irregular" after I unpacked it on a climb. They had not represented it as such. Cascade designs says that it is only cosmetic and is still covered by warranty; so it really is no big thang. But I thought I would atleast report the sleazy practice of this particular retailer. cheers - TG [ 04-10-2002: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

oops! How do you import a photo

quote: Originally posted by Dru: so TG, how big is Aconcagua?? I'm not really sure how big Aconcagua is. Or how to even quantify it's size. That being said, I bet I'm bigger than a certain well know poster. See photo below of me at high camp.....eat your heart out Caveman [ 03-05-2002: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

We are all familiar with politicians, sales people and business moguls using incomplete, mis-qouted, ill concieved and/or eronious statistics to convince people all sorts of things. It is a sad day when climbers & psudo-climbers start doing the same.

Pigs in Yosimite!? There are to many there allready. Be especially wary of the pigs riding horses. But Tex, I bet you could find a nice boyfriend for your pig if yours is a sow. [ 02-19-2002: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: It's dark meat, in case you were wondering. Supposed to be a potent aphrodisiac. Thanks FC9; I hadn't made the connection. Last time I ate dog...I loved it. A soup with chili, celantro & lime in a coconut base. Just joking [ 02-19-2002: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

quote: Originally posted by bobinc: I haven't seen much of a ranger presence at JTree, For what it's worth...In the eighties I was hasseled & ticketed by the man in JT several times for (IMO) minor infractions and slight deviations. That being said enforcment seemed sporadic. Maybe they just do occasional sweeps and have quotas and maybe it is looser now. Yeah right! [ 02-18-2002: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

When you do look at it; you will never think of Brittney Spears ( or G dubya ) the same way.

Check out these... http://www.georgewgirls.com/ Dru, this is just for you http://www.georgewgirls.com/showgal.php4?p=wgirl010.jpg

Can anyone recommend boots (Plastic or prefferably well insulated, sensitive, sticky, ridgid leathers) that are availible in EE width? My feet will be in your debt.

Black, size extra large, with open cell foam inserts, used one day. Make offer.

Five Pair ?? Can I make a size 12 out of 1 1/2 pair?

Clearly Clarke outclasses this guy named "Freb". What kind of a poser changes his name to Freb anyway. I checked; "b" and "d" aren't very close on the keyboard. Sorry, Alex, I didn't mean to start a typo spray precedent...but I couldn't resist.

I strongly feel that a rope can, and often is, a very dangerous security blanket. There is absolutly no substitute for awareness (inward and outward awareness of the type talked about in "The Book of Five Rings") on a glacier. The absolute reliance on a rope can be fatal. If you don't know for sure that your partner(s) can stop your fall and get you out if you fall, in then the rope should only be considered like a manky, rattlie piece of pro. It does little harm being there but can't be counted on. That being said a rope is clearly appropriate for a true belay ( solidly anchored) to cross a suspect bridge. On safe terrain or open cravasses a rope will slow down a party no matter how well balanced they are as a team. A rope is no substitute for spending the time to read the snow surface, probe or go around suspect areas. I will not ever rope up with people without an anchor or a complete confidence in their ability when I am playing for keeps. I have punched in soloing a couple of times and realized that my mistake was not in the lack of a rope but in my failure to read the snow surface and terrain. I solo a fair amount and to be safe I am sometimes forced to go slow and careful or avoid areas alltogether. I often bring a short rope to self belay across a suspect bridge. Practice being aware and diligent at all times on a glacier roped or not and you will learn to see the signs and be a safer climber. I have heard of way more serious accidents happening from inexperienced climbers using and falsely relying on a rope than of accidents caused by not having a rope. Infact, several years ago I helped pull a dieing climber out of a cravasse in the Himalayas in a spot that nobody should have been. It was the perfect place to have serious hidden cravasses, there was an easy alternate route, and the depression in the snow was obvious to even a casual observation. His 3 man team had a rope and all the gear to quickly get him out but had been unable to stop his fall or extricate him. They clearly thought that because they had shiny new gear they didn't have to worry. If we had not been in the area his stupidity and inexperience would have been fatal. All of the above also applies to knowing how to self arrest with your axe. If don't know that you can stop yourself in 25ft from an inverted back down slide on 45° hard pack... get out and practice. My 2 cents.

If you actually fall, not give up, I don't believe that you are likely to be able to push out with you feet. So, I call bullshit on the spin and run suggestion. I have taken about 15 leader falls of greater than 20 feet on slab. Yes, I have gotten hand rash, butt rash, scraps and bruises. I have indeed put extra wear on my shoes. However, the only time I have broken a bone climbing rock is when I pushed away from the rock (with my hands), lost control of the surface tumbled and my ankle slapped the rock. It was late May in the valley and was September before I got out of my cast...most of a whole season gone. My only suggestions, are a wide stance, keep your heels low and use the entire palms of your hands, especially the heels, not your tips. I too, took a wipper the first time I climbed Misty Beehtoven with no injuries..but I was using the original Fires ( I had just retired my EB's). They just got warm and sticky (for the time) and allowed me to cruise the second pitch in style. Relax, concentrate on the weight balance of each point of contact, move smoothly up. Don't consider falling an option. If one point of contact popping causes you to start a fall (which it may not if you test it smoothly before giving up on the opposing hold), you will start the fall balanced and relaxed and if you maintain that balance and composure during the fall, when the rope contacts you will have minimized you damage. IMO Have fun..I love slab climbing.

First, I have only climbed about a dozen roped solo freeclimb pitches, so I am far from experienced on the subject. That being said I plan to do alot of it this summer and I've been trying to think "out side the box". Two completly untested ideas I have had are: connect one screamer to my harness rather than several pieces of pro and... Rig the silent partner at the bottom of the pitch, well anchored above a carefully puddled or bagged rope that is tied off thereby elimanating the hanging loop ( or "rope bucket") and the weight and bulk at my harness. Waddaya think...stupid or clever?

Does anyone have any experience with climbing, ice or rock, on road cuts? Do you tend to attract the attention of over zealous troopers...and if so, do they have any real laws to quote to get you of the walls? If you refuse what's the ticket and will a judge be likely to enforce it?

Thanks, You know, Bronco, you're right. I don't buy into the new-age fate stuff. I am glad I was in the right place at the right time and was able to help the woman.

I was just peruseing that large topic on "year of the Mountain" and remembered a long standing curiosity I have. The Mountain Madness 1996 Everest debacle was billed as an Environmental Expedition. What was that about? Obviously they did little more than add to the growing trash heap...but what were the "Environmental" intentions? Does anybody know?

Freeclimb - when I get some photos developed I will scan a couple and post them A K - I wish you had been there. Carolyn - I used warmers but I guess they were not enough. I think they contributed to confusing sensations that led me to believe that my toes were fine all day long. As far as political stuff in Argentina - I think that even though clearly they have some issues, the people have seen it all before. The panic seems to be CNN sensationalized ( if not created). The only effect it had on us was that we got better deals

I'm back from Aconcaugua. The climb/hike was far from my most challenging and worth while mountaineering experience.... it was, however, very interesting and instructional. Following is an abbreviated TR. Day one:No Mules. Hike about 12 miles with 78# pack from 7500' to 9500'. Bivy. Good weather. Drink Rhum and Cytomax. Day 2:Hike about 18 miles to 10,500'. One trivial ( but much feared ) river crossing. I pump water for 2 hours... 'had to clean the filter every quart. Rain turning to snow in the evening. Day 3:6 miles to 14,500' and "Campo Base, Plaza Argentine". 2 more trivial crossings. We saw the rare and elusive Guanaco. At base; Burger & Fries for $9 and 3 cans of warm beer for $15. It snowed late. Day 4 & 5:Bored at base camp. Wash clothes, underarms, etc. Find that the deal is $8 dollars for a decent one liter box of red wine. Meet Germans, French, Spanish, Mexicans, Italians, Swiss and 3 boys from Colorado. (Apparently; the coloradoins and we are somewhat of a legend for not using mules to get to base camp) The way I see it, if you step on a bolt it is not a free climb and if you can't carry your load to base camp...why could you carry it higher. That being said; the mules did, indeed, carry our burgers up...of course we carried the money to buy them.Late in the day...Snow and more SNOW. Day 7:3 hours of easy hiking brings us to 16,400' and camp one. No more Hambergeusas y vino tinto. Afternoon snow. Day 8 & 9:Bored at camp 1. People streaming off the mountain with more excuses than I have ever heard. All of the excuses got to my 2 partners...we'll never make it...to much snow...I don't feel good...too much snow...Waaeh! More snow in the afternoon. Day 10:3 hours hike to camp 2 at 19,200. Breezey but clear. Day 11 & 12:Bored at camp 2. I argue with my partners about the route to summit. They want to do the Polish falso or escape route because "nobody in their right mind" would climb the polish glacier in these conditions!! We watch as 3 spanish guys and a woman climb and then ski down the Polish direct...our original goal. It does not sway them. It's too cold to spend much time outside. In the too small tent; they stink, I stink. I realize that the hardest part of this climb is to be big enough not to dispize my lame ass partners. I fail...they suck! As the clock ticks and my body aclimates... I wonder how I got my self into this mess 2 years in a row...on a big mountain with partners that have summit fever but little concern for climbing the agreed upon route. Unstable but reasonablely decent weather. Day 13:7 1/2 hour to the summit. (One partner turned back 10 minutes from the tent.) The 2 of us were the only ones to climb it from that side that day. I had the summit to myself for 20 minutes. I wandered around, looked at the memorial, looked at the south face and cried for missing my daughters. I radioed my remaining partner. He said wait for 20 minutes...he would be there and we could take summit photos?! I was ready to head down but waited. The hoary hoards showed up... within minutes, 3 large guided groups arrived. The solitude turned into a high altittude version of Mount Hood...people hugging, yelling, crying and poseing. 40 minutes later Troy showed up and we took photos...it was the only time I used my ice axe the whole trip. All in all, I spent 1 hour and 40 minutes on the summit...too long. On the way down I gave a Portuguese woman on the verge of a HACE induced coma dexamethazone and saved her life. I also carried 2 of her ill prepared partners 25 pound summit packs for a while. I was exhausted by the time i made it back to camp. I had a touch of HAPE but recovered during the night. Of note is that my OR over boots failed and would not stay on in the deep snow. My toes froze at some unknown point during the summit day. My doc says that I can expect to lose only one small chunk of one toe, but I have some fairly significant nerve damage and as I write this am in a significant amount of pain as the nerves in my toes repair themselves.The weather was windy but fair. Day 14Down to base camp... more burgers & expensive crappy beer. Day 15Somebody told me it was 77 kilometers...I don't think so... but it was indeed a long way on my tortured feet with a still heavy pack and nothing but GU and Cytomax to the ranger check out station. When I arrived, there was about a dozen muletiers and park gaurds grilling fat steaks over a mature open fire. One of the muletiers noticed an old purple Bonetti helium carabiner on my pack. To my most heartfelt relief he asked in broken English if he could have it. Hence, my two partners and I ate woodfired steak, fresh bread, rigattoni and corn salad until we could eat no more. Quite the trade. In good weather we slept under the stars and made it to the road and hitch-hiked to our hotel in the morning for pizza and $2.50 liters of good bottled beer. I have heard Aconcaugua called the worlds largest chose heap. It is true that it's line of weakness has no technical difficulties. But the fact is that the only thing small about Acon. is the minds of most of those who try to climb it. It has the most beautiful permanent water ice climbs I have ever seen and long hard virgin rock faces. There is so much there and the vast majority of the people on the mountain just have myopic summit fever. If I ever go back I will use mules to bring a big wall tent to base camp, plenty of supplies, hunker down and spend my time climbing a small percentage of all of the truly spectacular walls that abound in the non-trade areas of what I believe is a world class mountain overrun by non-world class mountaineers.