Terminal_Gravity

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Ya but if you were Catherine you would get the satisfaction of jumping then ditching like a used RAG, Jeff Lowe, in his mustache phase! [/QB] Rag: as in synominious with Tampon I assume!

quote: Originally posted by TimL: Ethical purist...elitist....bad ass mofo.... My vote is for Royal Robbins My opinion of RR is that he is a confused, self righteous, piece of shit asshole. That being said he WAS a better climber than me. If I were to pick dead or alive climbers Harding would be toward the top of my list. Joe Josepheson would be my choice if I had to pick a live climber, and Catherine Destiville would be a serious contender...then again; if I were her I would probably spend more time playing with myself than climbing.

I'm sure that if I die by falling into a big cravasse, some people I know will say "atleast there is one less asshole in the world". And the fall will have nothing to do with it.

One of my favorite things about Produce Row is they sell about two kegs of my IPA a week With those profits I can buy one Camalot or 2 bottles of tequilla a month...gee; I'd own a much bigger rack If I'd just stop drinking.

Good TR, iain. Congrates... And I can relate to the Walrus wallow thing

Any comment's on the new 555's. Also where would you suggest to get the cheapest pair (or new 505's). Unless I'm just getting cheaper in my old age, Barrabes seems like they are getting more expensive. Before shipping they are $186 Frankly, I really don't know much about AT gear but I'm finally ready to plunk down the dough and want to do it right. Correct me if i'm wrong in assuming that Silvirettas are the only binding that works well with mountaineering boots. And for what it is worth, when forced to downhill I am reasonably competant and fairly aggressive. Thanks in advance -TG

For what it's worth...unless there is a crazy cornice on top of C Spur I would pick it any day as a safer decent alternative to Sunshine. Late season Sunshine has more rockfall and a berg plus it gets steeper as you go down for a while where as the coop's slope eases as you decend. It is true that if you don't know the first thing about self arrest and stumble toward Elliot you could be in trouble on the Spur...but I trust that is not the case if you just climbed a NF Route. BTW How far can you currently drive up CS road...clear to Cloud Cap? What about LoLo pass; is it open? [ 05-02-2002, 08:29 PM: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

quote: Originally posted by Alpine Tom: It sounded to me like tg was asking whether there were specific criteria that the Superintendant applied before deciding whether to allow you to do a solo climb. Or, are they granted as long as they get the letter? Yes; Alpine Tom that was my question. My climbing resume is very long but not really all that impressive, nor can I give any personal references from any super stars. (I have, however, spent a fair amount of time soloing). So... I was hoping to find out what sort of info the superintendant wanted so that I could abridge my resume accordingly. But at this point it is all moot to me. I got word back today that I have been approved for soloing any route. Thanks, Mike G for the info and BTW I think your guide book is excellent...it is a gem in a sea of shit. IMO

quote: Originally posted by rbw1966: in case you want to gape at enhanced breast tissue after my dogs hump each other. RBW, you are one beautifully sick Mo' Fo'. With you at the helm I'm sure we can make all of the Seattlights feel puritan!

Thanks, Will, for starting this. My vote would be Horse Brass, Produce Row or Beaulahland (if they don't have a band...too loud) And for a cheaper alternative; if someone wants to donate a house for the evening I will donate a keg ( or two). cheers - steve (TG) [ 05-02-2002, 03:35 PM: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

I was on Hood 5 days ago and snow shoes would have been silly. They are rarely needed this time of year and has been said only immediatly after a storm. SS Hood consolidates very fast this time of year. Have Fun. IMO bring an axe and preferably crampons for the top but a rope is for gumbies.

quote: Originally posted by ScottP: To dangle prepositions. LOL

Hey Dan M. Don't be put off by these guys. I'm with you man. I've never actually climbed anything before. I did run a mile once in High School in under ten minutes. Lets do a warm up climb first to see how we work together...maybe The Yokum on Mt. Hood. I'd like to try it in high Heels & a latex skirt just for fun. After that we can hang out at Muir and smoke up the place.

Happens Twice a day

Do you have any time lined out. I plan on doing the Grand Traverse in a single push probably in late July. I haven't decided if I want to try & solo it...probably not. Maybe we could hook-up.

trask...Fetishes that I may or may not have aren't an issue. "Perfect style" is without gear. Free solo is a higher style than hang dogin. Ben Nevis has been soloed nekked. Although the guy did use boots crampons and tools. Ruddersbox...I think that Wild Turkey might add to the challange but I prefer Maker's Mark CF...Gain on dude The rest of you pusses...Where's the spray when I guy need's it?

Anybody want to cross the Alvord Dry Lake Desert in south east Oregon this summer with me? I prefer to do it during a dust storm, naked and without water. I want a partner with a weak constitution so that I can add to my own personal struggle by draging you the last distance.

in sober retrospect, I'm sure that it was my soaking cloths that were the culprit. Evaporative cooling and all that. I'd rather freeze up than even think about cuddeling with the Mother-in-Law

I have not been doing my part on this thread lately. Yawn... but what the hell I think I'll come up with something clever, witty & original. Dan Larson Sucks

Thanks, Gimpy. And Yes, I am indeed very bored...see my "mother-in- law post" under the gear critic if you need proof.

First, the "Escaping the Mother-in-law" TR Friday evening. I get home from work at 6:30 after a long week. We brewed 9 times and on top of that I had more than the usual amount of arduous paper work to deal with... my administrative assistant (secretary in an earlier era) is on vacation. The last thing I was looking forward to was that my "lovely wife" (Willstricklands words) had invited her mom and my hyperactive niece for a sleep over. I decided to "get out" in more ways than one. I threw 2 ropes, a shovel, a picket, a dead man, slings, harness, 'biners, my Marmot Lithuim Bag, stove & pan, sleeping pad, snow shoes, head light, can of Copenhagen, GU, Ramen, Halva, water bottle, cloths, beef stick etc. etc. etc. ad nausium into my pack and headed out; hoping to rope solo some crazy little coliour thang with a cornice at dawn. I drove up on a local logging road until I got stuck, lowered the tire pressure, locked the hubs and put it 4WD low and drove another 1/2 mile until I got stuck again. It was then 8:15 and almost full dark. I post holed up through warm wet snow in the dark for a while, sweating in shorts and a tee-shirt until I gave up and put my snow shoes on. Then I post holed up about a thousand feet through dense trees and got hopelessly disoriented on the moonless night. My altimeter said I had only made 1500 out of the 3000 feet that I wanted. My spirit was broken. The stars had turned to clouds and a warm wind had picked up. I decided that I had better dig a snow cave. At 10:30 I put on my extra cloths and fired up the stove, melted snow and made ramen. One bite left me wanting, I dumped the rest into the melting snow and satisfied my gullet with a heaping plug of cope'. After squirming into my bag ( 0 degree, Marmot lithium 800 FP down, remember) wearing socks, shorts, Patigonia capiline tee-shirt, Patagonia R-1 hooded thing and a Patigonia proto-type puff ball vest (yes Patagonia gives me deals) I mummyed up and still spent a chilly night in the cave. At 4:30am I awoke with optimism that it had gotten cold during the night and my target was in shape only to find that it was 42 degrees and raining outside the cave. No climbing today! I packed up and made it home by 6:30 for my first margerita of the day. Thats the TR; but the real question is why was I not toasty warm all night long? I had a sleeping pad. Yes, in the cave, sheltered from the rain, but surrounded by snow, it might have been 32 degrees even though it was warmer out side, but certainly no colder. I was wearing what seemed like plenty of cloths inside the zero degree bag and yet I was a bit chilly. What's up with that? The bag did absorb some moisture from my wet clothes and the dripping cave during the night...but still, what gives? How do Manufactures really rate bags? Maybe I'm just a pontificating whimpy piece of shit climber. Maybe not. I have other bags of various ratings but I really like a lot of things about the Marmot. Compared to the others the ratings, it seem appropriate but clearly not accurate. After a night of heavy drinking at an outdoor party last December, I crashed in the snow in my Mountain Hardwear King Tut ( neg. 35 degree dryloft ) it was -12 degrees in the morning and I was fuckin' cold in the middle of the night. At the time, I blamed it on the fact that I was drunk and slept nekked...but I wonder, is it the ratings? Sorry about all the ramblings, but what are your experiences with bag ratings. Or, does anybody really know the criteria for manufactures giving a bag a rating? Maybe I just have a very low sleeping metabolism...that might explain the extra 20 pounds of insulation I carry around my gut.

To claim on-sight you clearly can never have laid hands on that particular piece of rock before. But, I have read definitions calling for "no prior knowledge". If taken literally that seems to me that if you have even heard that the climb exists you are no longer eligible to on-sight it. So, do you have to acctually be driving down the road or hiking down the trail and see something and say to yourself "gee!, I think I'll climb that" and do so? Or, can you know that it has been climbed? What if you are doing that and see chalk marks or moss stripped off? No more on-sight? Can you know the rating? Can you have read a guide book but never seen it before. Can you look at it from a distance and at a future date walk to the base and climb it after reading a publicly availible guide. Can you talk to some one that has climbed it and said it was fun but didn't tell you where the difficulties were or what pro to take? What happens if some one that you know happens to mention that they climbed it and you happen to know their approximate ability; are you then not able to claim on-sight status when you climb it? Maybe it sounds like I am just playing word games or being a geek or stroking my own ego. The fact is; I am very careful about making claims of my successes that are not true and it seems that if one follows the definition to the letter of an on-sight climb, it is virtually impossible to do so, unless you live in a cave (without internet access). Your opinions, words of wisdom or attacks of spray?

Practicing smoking doob's and picking your nose at the same time. Very talented.

Does anybody know what the specific criteria are that is used to determine weather or not a permit to solo is granted. Or does anybody have any tricks to help get one. Also, how early are Furher Finger conditions most likely to be favorable. Thanks in advance

Thanks