Terminal_Gravity

I use a gigapower and a MSR international. Since I have gotten used to the giga I almost never use the MSR. I have tried 3 methods for keeping the fuel liquid. The copper wire trick...I don't like it because the copper degrades and embrittles and can fail. The water dish trick works great but takes more screwing around and therefore you have a higher risk of a spill. My typical method is to put a heat pack on the canister. I either use a rubberband to the side or just sit the canister over the pack. In extreme cold I have had to occasionally augment this with the water trick. I then use the heat pack in my boots at the end of the day to help keep them dry and ready to wear in the AM. BTW I have used this method with excellent results at over 20,000 feet and below zero degrees F. I did make a custom wind screen out of an old pot bottom that directs the flame along the bottom and then up the sides. I get far better melt per fuel rate than with the MSR. And if I can get it lit, it still works in 30 mph wind. The partial canister issue is only relevent on short trips and then I use one of the small canisters. I use up the partials on non weight critical trips. The only time that I would consider using the MSR anymore is at a base camp or when I was sure I could not find fuel. my 2 cents

quote: Originally posted by trask: Cavey, Dru and I have large tools. No shit! If there is any shit on your tools...I don't want to hear about it.

quote: Originally posted by Dennis Harmon: Don't go up there! It is too high. You will fall off and die and your mother will cry. Dennis You crack me up, Dennis.

while I'm climbing with my friends. Hey bartender...some crampons, an axe and some fear. It's not that I don't like partners; I just feel better when they are not around. Seriously, My experience with partners has been either negative because we don't get along, or they punk out or we fail for other reasons or they are dangerious to themselves or me. My success rates lately are much better solo. But, solo is limiting. I'm frustrated. Do others have experience or sage advice on this subject.

Is that Chopicalqui(sp?) ?

Gear dosn't make the climber...But IMO Patagonia now makes, by far, the best clothing. The Patagucci days are gone. Their shit rocks...no really. That being said I gotta agree with Caveman.

quote: Originally posted by Terminal Gravity: Kevin, There is lot out here & I'd be happy to share info with you. Also, there are a couple of hikers guides. If you give me a heads up I could meet you at the pub and point out spots & routes on your topo. Or, you could call me at the brewery 541.426.0158. But I am not going to take the time to write a guide book on this forum

Kevin, What kind of stuff are you looking for? Rock, Alpine, peak bagging, back packing or my personal favorite - long enchainments? The last water ice fell off the cliff 3 weeks ago but the skiing is still good if you are willing to hike for it. There is lot out here & I'd be happy to share info with you. Also, there are a couple of hikers guides. There are no rock or true climbers guides. If you give me a heads up I could meet you at the pub and point out spots & routes on your topo. [ 07-01-2002, 03:53 PM: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

Sounds like you kept your wits and focus in the face of real frustration. Great job & good TR.

Understood, thanks.

Scetchfest; you imply that you know who did it. Why keep it a secret? Call it like you see it and make public the name(s) of the perps. If you don't, you continue the problem. It is not a cowardly act to stand up and accuse some one of wrong doing.

quote: Originally posted by JayB: Jesus - anyone remember a worse year for climbers/copters? Anybody hear any more about the 'copter incedent in the valley that willstrickland mentioned?

I liked the TR so much that I acctually read it 3 times; start to finish.

quote: Originally posted by Billy: TG- Would you recomend ice axes and crampons for Washington now? Nope, I carried an Axe ( it is kind of a security blanket for me) and never used...not even close. I decided not to even bring crampons and I did not regret the choice. have fun - steve

Marty, Thanks for the TR and congrats. Why did you come in from the US side? Cheaper, less beaurocratic hassel, route considerations? Was there any Canadian ranger hassel? The reason I ask, is I am planning a solo attempt of Logan in 2004 and expect that I will have a difficult time getting permission from the authorities. If any body has comments or hints please spray away. Dru?

quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: No walls for me this time, partner did not come prepared and I'm too lazy to solo in the heat. Hasta, Will Hey Will, good to hear from you; Great TR. The Partner wasn't prepared? Gear, physically or emotionally. PM me if you want to climb something next weekend (28- 30th). Rock or alpine.

IAIN, you should be ashamed of your self, trying to promote that device to the cc.comers. You know as well as I do that it wil not produce Horse cock. You are shamelessly promoting the poodle penis model.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Just gettin this thread back to the top it was one of the all time classics!!!! Truely classic

You might not be an alpinist if you think 2 am is a time of night. [ 06-19-2002, 05:12 AM: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

quote: Originally posted by Dennis Harmon: It doesn't really matter what I say at this point. Most real adventure has been lost in the mountains... Dennis Depressing attitude, Dennis. Adventure is definately still out there; if a person wants it. A climber can acctually choose to NOT read every guide book and route discription availible; can wait for freshies so that the trudge line is not apparent, look for less traveled areas (they are still around, but don't have guides). Hell, there is grade five virgin rock in the NW. But most people want a guide book and a short approach, not adventure. A climber can even choose to give up plastic clothes, sticky rubber, batteries and zip lock bags...talk about adventure. It is the attitude. Personally, I go for the fun. I like my quality gear and my full size Bronco that can get me and my shit as close as possible to the climb. I really like the fact that I climb 100 peaks a year and still am a good father, unlike CE Rusk who may have climbed 3 peaks a year and was gone for months at a time. I admire the early pioneers, but don't envy them. I don't like bolts in wild areas, litter in the form of summit registers and mass rappel slings; they both take away adventure. But IMO what is even worse is chalk and cairns. Attitude is the real issue. Trad (or alpine) versus sport; again attitude. I suspect that the term "trad" ( rhymes with RAD ) was coined by some geezer wanting to feel "cool" and boost his ego in front of sporties that could climb a harder letter grade than him but were afraid of run outs. It's really all symantic bullshit anyway. Have fun , don't ruin the experience for others, get out there and climb, don't read to many guides...and kick over a cairn for me some day.

Nope, caveman, I don't care for the banana flavor.

Will strickland said that he was able to find Cytomax in the 10 pound tub for around $30 at a bike shop. I have not been so lucky. Does anybody know of any killer deals on the stuff.

Yeah, nacho you're right. But look at the big picture. So, after your weight is factored in and your leader manages to fall so hard as to make the directional fail and you still rocket upward bad enough to rip your 3 points. What was the point that held while all this happened... his running pro, which took twice the force of his fall. I'd say it was well tested and you could count on it to hold while you fumbled back on to the rock.

quote: Originally posted by iain: I noticed someone recently put a summit register tube up there a year or two ago. I'll be sure to spray liberally next time I'm up there. Yup, Register tube in place...along with alot of other litter. Speaking of litter, I did my share and cleaned up on the summit. Half a dozen slings & cordalettes, 2 rap rings, a brand new BD oval and, get this, a perfect #2 camalot shoved deep into a crack. Just doing my part for the environment. Don't worry there is still more litter up there for the climber that feels like they need gear; I did not take it all.