Terminal_Gravity

Your my hero cj. I guess I'm to dumb to find a map. I think the wall is right at the "4" on the 747' elevation mark.

RBW, It's not that island w/ the house. The wall I've seen is bigger than that whole island. The island that it is on is really large and looks like it has an old quarry on it. It also hase some dunes. It is close to the washington side and the wall faces NE...so from I-84 you can only see it for about 60 seconds traveling east bound. State 14 is way above at that point and I expect that it the wall is not even visible from the road. A canoe is fine with me!

Could you tow me on an inner-toob?

As some of you pdx'ers know, I travel the incredibly soporific stretch of interstate between Pendelton & Hood River quite often. The vast majority of the basalt cliffs along the way look climbable. But really are of marginal quality, at best. I've stopped and cragged several times and mostly just been dissapointed. I had pretty much resigned myself to just looking at the cliffs for entertainment on the drive. The other day I noticed, for the first time, a band of curvey columnar basalt that looks alot different from the rest of the gorge choss. It appears to be very very solid; believe it or not and it has a reasonable cap. The only problem is that it is on an island just east of The Dalles. Any interested party??? I'm getting off probation soon and am willing to tresspass again if it is on private land. I have no idea really, it may even be public. The climbing looks great.

Tex, thanks for shareing your thoughts here. I think this might be a good lesson for everyone. "not wanting to let a partner down" might be a good reason not to puss out because of physical strain or suffering, but it should not be a reason to get into un-acceptable danger. We both learned from that. I intend to climb YR next winter and I can't think of a partner that I would rather climb it with, than you. (Well maybe Catherine Destiville ) Let's talk in February! Also; thanks again everyone, especially redoubt, for making this thread what I had hoped. It really has helped me sort out my thoughts on climbing. I think I will now have a much better chance to grow as a climber in the future without as getting into crazy/stupid spots.

forgot mention dan. if they catch YOU w/o a permit, they're going to chain you up in the muir hut with alpinek every saturday. Beautiful, Mike...That's about the funniest thing I've ever read on this board.

Dan, I really don't think that getting the permit requires much of resume. (They gave me one!) IMHO... They aren't trying to inhibit people from climbing the mountain in the style that they choose, just taking some basic precautions to help make sure they don't have to deal with a gaurnteed recovery. The process is less painfull then you think. I personally, would rather concentrate on not falling into a cravasse than on finding hiding spots. If it had been tough to get a permit, I would have taken the "fuck da man" attitude, (my nature) but it's not a big deal...get the permit. I'm sure even you can.

Climbing Multnomah illeagally has to be alot less harrowing than climbing a Pakastani peak without a permit. Oh yeah, I forgot, such a thing has never been done --- Oops, I shouldn't be writing this. I'm still on probation for climbing on Beacon rock on Feb. first. Look for the new line of Camo climbing shells and ropes coming to a retailer near you!

Great TR. Sounds like adventure climbing on some of Oregon's finest!

Redoubt, Thank you for your well said and well considered thoughts. You weave a pretty convincing line of logic. I do know that a climber can dramitically improve their skill on loose rock and learn to get past it. I have honed that skill pretty well. You are absolutely correct in saying that there is a point that letting the shit fly is unavoidable or even required to get down to the more stable stuff. YR was deeply into that catagory. So, you are also correct in saying that my delination between "natural" rockfall and leader created rockfall is bogus. I admit I am wrong. As I have sought more challenging endevours I think I have tricked myself into thinking that increased objective danger is okay. You are right, it is not. Even though Yokum was very personally rewarding and enlightening for me ( and therefore somehow worth it); I dare say you have swayed me and I have changed my mind. I was wrong. It was a bad choice from the start. Thank you, again. My wife may owe you gratitude as well. I think I'll concentrate on "more suffering" in the near future.

belly laugh, Tex I liked the TR - fern thanks

Redoubt: Language may fail at some point to clearly convey subtle thoughts but I'll give it a try. First, on a sharp ridge a climber is unlikely to be exposed to naturely occuring rockfall. So, the risks come from oneselfs ( and one's partner's ) abilities. Not just technical ability and skill, but ability to figure out unusual gear usage, how to gage loose rocks (and their fall line) and the knowledge of what you definately can and maybe can't climb without falling. At some points both on Yokum and on the west gully I was climbing in the "you slip, you die" zone. I think that zone is reasonable. It might be hard to fathom, but, face it, we all climb in that zone some times. The difference is really only in how far toward our limits we are comfortable climbing in that zone. If you are strugling with that, try to think of an example you have climbed. Hiking on 15 degree soft snow immediatly above a gaping and huge cravasse, un-ropped is probably acceptable to the majority of the climbers on this board. So would walking on a sidewalk sized ledge above a 100 foot vertical drop or climbing the cable route on the backside of Half Dome. All are " you slip, you die". But you, as a climber, pay attention and you don't slip. The fact is, we all climb in that zone to some extent. One of my mantra's is "It doesn't matter if you fall 2 feet to the last bolt on a sport route or if your body splashes 1000 feet down a wall and your devistated family has to try find enough to bury...IF YOU DON'T FALL!". That is really the key to the skill of a prudent soloist. It sickens me to read on this board people trying to learn " how to fall". People!; learn how NOT to fall....sorry, I'll get off my soap box. On Yokum, Tex and I were both in that zone and mind set. With that has to come the willingness to turn tail, if prudence calls. So, I disagree, we did not leave the parking lot with "un-acceptable risk". However, we were indeed, over our heads before we left the parking lot. But I in no way regret giving it a try. The knowledge and experience gained was well worth it. I also, in no way, regret leaving the parking lot for the west gully. Unlike Yokum, however, because I became exposed to significant "natural" rockfall on a climb that had a lot of "you slip, you die" climbing not too far from my ability comfort zone, I should have immediatly sought the quickest escape once that first rock passed me. Because the exposure and commitment, combined with unforseen rockfall was "too much", regardless of my skill level. I now recognize that I am fortunate to have lived to learn from the experience/mistake and climb again. Shred got hit and injured by a rogue falling on the east gully under good conditions. That IS the risk we take when we choose to climb this stuff; and by so choosing, it becomes "acceptable" risk. But Mtnhigh is truly correct in implying that I should review my choice to climb this sort of route "off" condition. Back to Yokum. When I choose to decend, I was 50ish feet above questionable pro, with death fall potential on loose, snow dusting occluded choss. It might sound crazy to some, but I was fine and comfortable with the exposure. Indeed, it was very very close to my solo limit but still within it and I was still calm and collected. Internally struggling, but maintaining composure. I turned, not because I was not comfortable with going up but because I was not comfortable with climbing down If I had to. And, I could not be absolutely sure that I would not have to. That was the emotional crux and I did not decide to go up anyway...so in some ways, that climb was a success. The down climb WAS at my level of acceptable solo limit and it took me a long time to be careful enough. Poor Tex froze at the belay until I was stable enough to let him don his parka. So you see, if I were more skilled I could have safely pushed farther on Yokum, but I'm not. (I want to be) On the west gully the danger was not completely determined by my skill level so I shouldn't have climbed it even if I was more skilled. It was a tecnical success and an intelectual failure, where as Yokum was a technical failure and an intellectual success. I welcome further discussion, even if to just call "Bullshit", because these musings are somewhat new territory for me...and I see no reason to be solo. - TG

No disagreement from me; Iain.

Thank you all for the replies. They have helped solve some of my internal conflict. After I wrote this Wednesday I went out to a local cliff and soloed (top-roped) a couple hundred feet of 5.9 slab. Easy, solid climbing in a comfortable environment with only my demons to keep me company. It also seemed to clear up some strif. It was the first time I had climbed since Hood. 12 days off is a long time for me. Tex, Yokum did something different for me. I never really felt like we continued with inherent un-acceptable risk. I just felt that the climb and conditions were beyond my ability to climb with reasonable safety. Subtle difference, I know. But I think it is significant. Shuksan (via PM) pointed out that I should accept the possibility that I have two levels of "reasonable" risk. One for myself and one for my family. And they can be different. I think that was the case on the West Gully and is the culprit that stole the emotional success of the climb. The climb was easily within my personal alpine soloing comfort zone but the commitment and rockfall pushed it beyond what is fair to my family. Mtnhigh: I have taken a "twight-ian" attitude the past couple of years in my climbing on local and comfortable peaks. I think that I learn more and train better if I don't pay too much attention to conditions and weather on the mountains that I know. In the Wallowas I sometimes wait for the worst storms to climb a simple peak. I learn alot more about my gear (and myself) then if every thing was perfect. I am safer on big and significant mountains because of it. All that being said, I think you are right to bring up the fact that I should consider conditions more. That will help me keep the family and personal acceptable risk levels in the same place. I don't ever consider a peak, a route or a crux as something to conquer. They are friends that give me gifts, bring me enlightenment and help me fight gravity. I would rather die crossing a street than in the mountains; for to die in the mountains, is the ultimate climbing failure. Thanks again.

TR = Trip Reflection Loose, very wet, five two, ice of blue I like the ridges, the curves, the little points sticking up, the cracks and the ribs as much as the next guy. But it’s a beautiful face with clean lines that really excites me the most. I think that the west gully of the north face is the most aesthetic line on Hood. I’ve climbed Hood a bunch of times, but I had managed to fail four times in a row until the Friday before last. Here’s the score... South Side - inexperienced partner - Failure Reason: very high winds East Gully NF - Willstrickland - Failure Reason: Slab avy potential Wyeast - experienced partner - Failure Reason: She got a bad migraine & passed out Yokum Ridge - Texplorer - We were fucking stupid and tried it in November! Emotionally, this all may have added up to the wrong set of priorities. I wanted to succeed, I wanted the West Gully and I wanted it solo without gear. I made the summit, uninjured; but somehow I feel as if I failed on a deeper level. I am writing this for selfish reasons. If any of you have sage thoughts or have had similar reflections please share them with me. My head is somewhat fucked up and I am reeling with thoughts of what form my climbing should take in the future. The Report... Thursday, 6/26, I rushed through my deliveries in Portland and headed up to Cloud Cap in the beer truck. I met an extreme skier from Utah that had been on the Cooper, Sunshine and the East Gully the prior days and he said that the snow was solid, bomber and nothing was falling. I got some fitful sleep and started up at an easy pace, 12:30 Friday morning. The hike to the bergshrund was pleasant with a moderate breeze. It was above freezing but the snow was solid. I turned the berg dead center by hiking up the snow cone that had come from the central debris gully. The gully was like an eight foot deep chimney cut in the snow field from wet fallings. It was really very cool. About 20 feet up I turned to see the brick red crescent moon coming up to the east. Peering out of the gully, I could see Adams and Raineer bloodied with subtle reflected light. Half way up the “chimney” I exited to the left and climbed to the bottom of the lower step. With just a little ice to help I climbed wet rock about 15 feet and crossed through pouring water, left onto more snow. At the top of that, I reached a near vertical rock section. There was quite a bit of water coming down the center, maybe thirty gallons a minute. The holds just to the right looked positive and I started carefully up. They were very loose, If I were to fall I would have bounced a bit and ended up in the Berg. I down climbed back to the snow. While I was standing there in the dark, reviewing my options, the first rock of the day, a melon, hit very near. I never saw it, but I smelled the sulfur. I realized that it was prudent to make a decision fast. I traversed through the water to the left side. The rocks were more solid, more wet and more rounded. A dozen quick and careful moves later, grabbing with my tools and gloves, I reached the relatively low angle central field. As the sky brightened the wind picked up dramatically and an almost continuos shower of small rocks started pouring from up high. I was able to stay left and avoid them completely. I passed the upper step on the left and reached the snow field. At that point it was full light and I had to cross through the falling rocks. I had only seen two cantaloupes, the rest were lemons to currants. I paused to see if there was any periodicity to the fallings. There was not, but it seemed that once one fell, others fell for about 45 seconds. At the start of a pause, I started the dash. Two thirds of the way another barrage started. I find it difficult to dodge when I am front pointing so I just took it. Three lemons passed me, my helmet got thunked by a kumquat and I was peppered by blueberries. Lucky I guess. Other then high winds the summit and decent down Cooper was without note. I took my time, curiously un-elated about the summit. The Reflection: I climb with partners but I also solo. I solo rock and alpine, roped and un-roped. But it is un-roped alpine that drives me and fills my soul. To mis-quote Messner; being in the wild, alone, testing your skills and feeling your limits is to look into the most perfect mirror a person can find. That is the greatest reason I climb. I get immense personal reward by climbing. It adds value and focus to the rest of my life. It is being self reliant on a mountain that rewards me the most. Some may think that any soloing is crazy, risky and just plain stupid. It can be, but not the way I do it. I’m prudent. I turn around a lot. I don’t get above my head. I don’t climb anything un-roped I can’t safely reverse. My questions to myself are “What was different about Hood this time?” “Was a success actually a failure?” and if so “How do I still climb more interesting stuff and avoid unacceptable risk?” It wasn’t until I was back down to the truck, out of my boots, brewing coffee and drinking a shot of bourbon that I had a crash of emotions. On the climb I was focused, calm and in the zone. (The skill of a soloist I guess) I’m not a great climber but I do know how far I can push my limits and I don’t get sketched out anymore. The crux was not technically severe, maybe 5.2, but it could have been 3rd or 5.6 for all I know. I was not focusing on how hard, just on not falling. The difficulty was not the problem, nor the exposure, nor the wetness or even the rock fall, really. Being alone in the dark was not an issue. But somehow the combination and the level of commitment was too much. My desire may have tricked me into failing to climb with reasonable safety. I think I did cheat on my wife and I think I was unfair to my daughter. How do the great climbers find a balance? How do you? Loose, very wet, five two, ice of blue...and a heart of cold stone. - steve BTW, anybody want a partner?

Acctually, the Coe might be reasonable and toward the top if you pick a judicious line up to the right of the standard Sunshine you can also have minimal rock fall exposure. But do it early, in any case. Also, if you don't care about the summit playing on the seracs on the Elliot is fun. Just my opinion... Indeed, it is safer to sit at home, eat chips, drink beer and play video games.

Nice pix, Dryad! Shread, did you notice much rock fall down the west gully or Elliot head wall Saturday? The West Gully was a fucking bowling alley Friday.

Good job Wayne, thanks for the TR. It's ironic; I have been considering trying the same thing. For no real reason except that I have personal fondness for the name Logan. To bad about the 9 hour bivy, sounds like it would have been a lot easier with less sleep. I have found that with those sort of distances and ele' gains in 24, I have the most trouble with blisters & the dreaded groin chaff. Any problems on that front? Do you think that your quad soreness was in part due to hydration, salts or nutrition deficit or just the distance?

Looks like I missed all you guys by less than a day. But, you picked the right day. Coming down Coop, Friday morning the wind was gusting to maybe 70. I got a rash on my leg ,though mid weight Capaline, from blown corn. cheers

'Glad to hear you had a good time, Off. Sorry I didn't make it out. I'm lame, I know. I had a bit of an emotional epic on Hood Friday, and really couldn't face the thought of climbing.

Yeah, but they sharpen real fast. Just don't try to use your fine file that you use for your tools. It'll gall up so fast that even a drill mounted wire brush won't clean the teeth. Buy a small bastard cut file or better yet a second cut file designed for soft alloys with self clearing teeth.

Poach, poach, poach a site

http://www.moonstone.com/news_mtlogan.htm

Anybody hear how Bishop, Josephson and Searl's attempt on the South Face of Logan went ( or is going )?

If the flake is truly expanding; never place a cam. The only possible exception is a camalot or a cam with machined stops. Otherwise, there is a good chance the lobes will reverse & fail. I agree with Chriss, that you should try like hell to sling it. Another old trick in a narrowing slot is the venerable jammed knot. It will compress, abrade and tighten into place without much outward pressure; and act as a load limiter as it does. The above not withstanding; it's probably better to not fall. my 2 cents