Rafael_H

Lukich You can use any size and material, all work for raps fine. The thinnest I used was 7mm static and 8mm dynamic. You can buy even thinner and lighter dynamic ropes for using in a double rope system if suddenly needed, but extra dynamic rope is expensive and odd usage might not warrant having it - sport and trad cragging around here does not require 2-rope raps. I found that a thin static cord is more often useful when climbing dry rock: rappeling things that you "soloed" up, hauling up and then 2-rope raps, cutting up for anchors. On the other hand a thin dynamic rope could be re-used for glacier travel. I would use a separate set for ice cragging. Any thinner than 7mm would require (much) more getting used to, which if you are into alpine might be a good thing. I saw a super-thin dynamic ropes at Feathered Friends, I think under 7mm.

S&P: 1. rock approach is neither "soooo" nor "reeealy" slow , a very simple and short 5.0 traverse with 1-2 5.5 moves (overrating it to be sure), no drytooling. Use a few pitons (KB) for pro. 2. 60m rope - 2 60m halves - easily reaches the ground from the base of the ice column at the cave, with some rope to spare. 3. I'd approach to the bottom, gear up in the cave and walk up to the rock start. The attraction on this route is a single pitch of good ice with lots of cool exposure.

Where are you now?

There are many climbs formed between Euphrata and Coulee, well worth the drive. Easy or hard, many top-ropable, short approaches. Today's conditions were cold and hard, brittle ice. Amazingly, Zenith by 11AM was flowing like a downpour at the middle section yet temps were so low that all our gear - draws, tools, hood - was encrusted in ice. The ice was semi-plastic, depending on wetness. At the same time Salt And Pepper was dry and very hard, brittle but not "a horror show".

My main evaluation criterion is how quickly I can place the screw: take out, stick from 1 or 2 twists. Then comes racking. Years before I tried almost all of them, BD, 360, Americana, CM and DMM: - got rid of all of the Grivel's - just a pain on all aspects. If one thinks of ice screw placement any other time but under the stress of leading, it is very easy to figure out the max twist position, how not to drop it, etc. - got CM-s even before they had an extra rotating hanger and they placed great. - then got a DMM to try and it placed better than all others at the time, too bad they do not have an "express" twisting contraption. - this year's BD-s place as good as DMM, and have the knob, and rack great. Now I just use Petzl and BD, both have unique advantages, like simply hitting the BD hanger to brake off a small ice chunk is not possible with P if you happen to choose such a spot in a hurry. Petzl - what glassgo said plus easier to screw on closer to your torso.

Don, on an unrelated note, do you know how high the bolts go on Shreddie and what the M rating concensus is? Thank you.

I heard that great alpine climbs often require tyrollean-s across rivers. A convenient, easy place is right across Synchronicity... I'd donate a ratcheting thingy for rope tightening.

Thanks jmace! I first used the log I think back in 2000, so if it has been there all these years then I'll chance it going in. Will post the results.

The older post does not seem to have definitive info for this year...

Aha, thank you, that's what I was looking for! The Search did not work - the climb is misspelled...

Please let me know. Thank you in advance!

Then start doing http://www.crossfit.com/mt-archive2/001921.html I bet my entire rack many lack certain, basic, strengths that few like Tim take for granted (yo, Tim, how's life?), perhaps w/out even recognizing. Easy to find though if you start looking seriously. Once I learned (a tiny bit) it is so interesting to observe others and being able to read their "fitness map". ok, gotta go...

some info here: http://www.gordonpirie.com/

Is thata a pull up bar hanging from rafters?

remove these words from your language : conspiracy,leftist,lunatic,anarchist,unsubstantiated,according -to-the- pentagon,the-white-house-says,according-to -ret-general, unconfirmed-sources-tell-cnn/fox/abc/'tever,paranoia,delusion,perspective,whack -job, unpatriotic,communist,et al.. then you can talk....if not then you are listening to yourself spin. notin' more that crap is baggage. you cant move forward,dragging all that . if you are satisfied with the amount of truth you can 'handle' , then fine, spin it up, fluff it up and look pretty .truth takes courage.fluff is cheap. Hmmm, so what, "de-puff" and feel insignificant?! Or God forbid start anew looking for the real truth, squelch ego... Noooo, please no! (can't believe i am reading and even posting in spray - got tired reading about running )

The tape to buy is not the non-sticky one, but the one from 3M, I tried both. Only saw at Lowe's (electrical department), it is a large roll for ~$8+, but well worth it, comes in a box package ~4" wide. It is far easier to use because there is no backing to peel, it is wider and thicker than others. Really cool thing: use for your ice tools, pullup bar, Bachar ladder... Home Depot sells one too but a smaller roll and is narrower.

Never met you, Porter but wish you all the health in the world. Get well!!!

Amen to what billcoe said! Can't recall but isn't Sunshine Dihedral the one right next to "To Bolt..."? That's not suck to flash that, it's great, way to go! (not been to smith since 2001).

VW, thank you! I saw OR gloves, quite on par with BD Mixed Glove plus they said it was w/proof. Now will have to go see Punisher m-self, sounds good - never really like OR gear. Tool dip: I used it for tools - will not stand to ice tool use and will peel off, it's not like the factory molded grips. I think factory uses some heat based process, not dry.

Core: YES Plastic: YES No pullups, no grip dev? Bush-y :tdown: :tdown: A young boy in the gym did an l-sit and went into a full handstand from there w/o touching ground but only see him climbing (hard!). Spectacular, but not at all typical!

OK, got it, thank you! So do these leak at seams? I have N-waxed gloves for years - works great. I've taped all my tools with a special electrical rubber "splicing" tape from 3M so never friction problems, Ergo can be subtle because you might need no friction at the bend. Seamgrip: I have covered an entire palm w/it, works, but after a year the sealer peels, look like shedding snake skin. So resealing is then problematic because not all peels uniformly. I came to conclusion that for roadside ice-cragging just have a few pairs of thin(er) gloves, for longer routes carry thicker w/proof like BD Ice Glove. And I learned to rappel in some kind of a hand-overhand fashion w/o consistent slide of the rope through palms - gives more control w/wet ropes anyway. In the end yeah, the suckers won't last as long as say your jacket, I figured that first time I climbed ice so bought only screws with knobs... Ice is far more $$$ than rock.

Just in case this is actually a question and not some rhetorical lamenting How do you know it is just your weight? No doubt body weight matters in maxing out your grade, but among all of the contributing factors I'd put the weight close to the lowest end of priorities. First and foremost, I hope you are not eyeing V6-V10 pulling ~20 year olds, trying to catch-up, especially if you are ~40. If it is your peers that rock, then make some comparisons: - How much worse are you on the campus board than they are? - How long can you hold an L-sit comparing to your buddies? - How heavy can you push-press (military press) in comparison? - How many L-pullups can you do in comparison? You can improve in all those 50% or (much) more w/o any weight management! And if you do everything else being equal you'll be much(!) closer to their grades. If on the other hand your friends don't show any significant advantage over you then it is likely you are simply not spending enough time climbing in the gym (I know you are local so outside is out of question), or climbing in the gym for fun and not systematically training. If everything else is equal then given your description you are overtraining/overdoing/underrecovering. I started (after 6y in limbo) from trying to loose weight and finally learned to pursue strength gains instead, and in 8 mo have doubled my grade w/o any major injury or multi-month sickness, and am confident will be climbing this summer better than ever before, being 6y older. Of course, if it is o n l y your weight that is different, then... you can't have it all, eh?

VW, are they not waterproof? I have not seen these, so looked at BD site and it says "BDry insert". How "dry" are they? I am looking for a thin dry glove and BD's look to be better than OR's. Thank you.

He-he, Jens, you just said it there - patrols, rentals, what f-in not = new positions, new activity (of filling empty with void as they say), more "service to the people". In this case government responded in a timely, proactive and decisive manner, which will surely appear in somebody's reelection campaign junk mail Cost? How can you put cost on people's lives!

I have never used, nor felt a need for this kind. I can recall though a couple of cases where I placed an Alien with just 2 cams engaged. But never recall those being life or death placements. I know these cams are used but never seen anybody carrying them. What if everybody lists the local FREE routes (e.g. Squamish, Index, Vantage) you find are far better, or even key to protect with offsets [rather than with regular cams]? Location and grade would be really nice. BTW, I am not trying imply that one can always do without, that will always be subjective - just curious and have no extra $$$ (anymore ). Thank you!