Rafael_H

Wow, that's not funny Family, job = every trip is precious!

You've only completed 50% of necessary due diligence,now finish up the rest: climb with Forged Friends on several granite climbs. I suspect you wouldn't need anybody's advice afterwards

Not necessarily a bad idea. Dru and JosephH are right about bounce-testing vs falling. How far are you planning to fall? It wold not be very useful to test on 3ft falls. And you wouldn't see what actually was wrong with the placements. Plus often times pro walks. So perhaps, I think kevbone was first, hang a TR, jug up placing pro and clipping another bogus rope in (tied to yourself as if leading) to try to repro cams walking/nuts falling out. Then rap the same TR from placement to placement inspecting and bounce-testing each. Climbing instead of jugging is far better so you don't spend unrealistic time placing pro - that's were aiding is worse for revealing problems - given this is purely some preparation for "actual" climbing. The self-belay TR setup was also described in one of R&I or Climbing w-in last 6mo. And RuMR is correct too, you won't be doing this long, too boring, and there are almost as many different problematic placements as there are routes.

Hmmm, Don, if the blobs plastered on the right hand rock are instrumental, bad - they were the only thing looking rotten that day, like a soggy heavy glacier ice, with wettness on the rock, likely detached... The rest looked so damn healthy though. I ain't going, no time, but hardmen should go using the column only. That's a cold spot, the ground was frozen even from half-way up the gully.

Shreddie was in superb condition! Too bad we wasted ourselves with the very-very Loose Lady and only had energy for Closet Secrets - nice fat WI3 also in great condition. Carl's Berg from the road looked to be in very respectable condition, hard but not necessarily rotten.

more like Blackie Lawless

PM Sent to dbconlin.

Hi. I am in the same boat but seems like cam go to Lillooet this coming weekend. There will be ice there I would think for the next 2 weekends or more. If interested in going for the full w-end let me know: rafael.public@comcast.net Rafael.

Working the entire weekend...

Hi, I am going to go check Columbia Basin and/or Strobach ice out and climb one or both days this weekend. If anybody wants to join in let me know as late as Fri evening. I might also walk to Colchuk Lake on one of the days... Regards, Rafael

Hi, I am going to go check Columbia Basin and/or Strobach ice out and climb one or both days this weekend. If anybody wants to join in let me know as late as Fri evening. I might also walk to Colchuk Lake on one of the days... Regards, Rafael

A few questions: I have not seen a single pic that looks a hair more dificult than WI3. I can understand if it is hard to take a pic with proper angle, so please somebody clarify (no need to write if this is the hardest you've done ). How does it compare to say Polar Circus technically? What about the Pencil, pic in WA Ice definitely looks mostly low angle, WI4 max. What kind of time is it approximately from the base for Drury? Every guidebook says cross the damn lake... Where the heck do you get a boat, is it possible to rent in L-worth on a weekend? What about foot crossing, any beta? Thanks in advance, I'd appreciate the help - burried in work.

Mon, local gyms need above anything else some strong competition...

Good seeing you finally. Did you get the farmer dude?

Hey, RuMR, thank you so much! Well, if I am still alone by Sat morning, might come flail on whatever crazy stuff you'll be doing. Hope all is well!

Hi. Looking for a partner to climb easy routes at the Lower Town Wall this Saturday. Only easy ones - 5.8-10a/b (Godzilla, GM, etc), just recovered from injuries. I have all the gear and a truck. Also open for midweek climbs, any day.

I started to have shoulder problems in 2003 which gradually became quite painful, with limited motion range. Interestingly it never interfered with climbing vertical and somewhat overanging routes, although I think it was only a matter of time to develop something debilitating. Rubber band did not help, even done regularly for months. But, recently I started doing regular strength training, including shoulder dumbell exercises, in supersets with other upper body, and after two months I suddenly noticed that the pain was gone, and the full range of motion is back (yeah!!!). With everything else being the same, the obvious difference was made by shoulder strengthening, note - NOT injury prevention-type, but full on strengthening routine.

I understand, for many it IS $25, full weekend's gas. Also the crags are poison ivy infested crap, even Trundle Dome is not worth the hike to me. Now if it was Index then it'd be a different story... Not! I believe it is a matter of precedent. Who knows, when the time comes for Index (and it will) the choice might not even be there: "...Phase One goes here, Two - there...granite boulevard... What? Climbing? Phase Three will have an indoor climbing gym..." Secondly, I don't want to see more housing there, with more f-ed up rules, speed traps ("watch for baaaabies"), parking limitations. Who knows, loose the land and the trend will be more and more limitations, preserve - and that might be a seed for further ownership possibilities in our state. Check's in the mail

Sorry to revive this, but here: http://www.nunatakusa.com/lunapad.htm Might ask Jim Nelson to check them out, or shall myself on the way back from WA Pass.

Juan, Use NIKWAX waterproofing paste, comes in a tube. "Seamgrip" the seams beforehand. Wash the boot before applying Nikwax. Just slap the thing all over the leather and synth parts, including the tongue, remove the laces. I have not used the boot crossing creeks, but in slush, snow and rain they have only got wet around the ankles when w/o gaiters. Same w/Trango ICE, similar construction - stepped into water under ice and had it for a while w/o realizing. To my great surprise did not get wet at all. Just use the paste, not the liquid stuff.

Great, thank you all! Ade and Marko: makes total sense, yes brushing snow (or crumbs) off blue pad is frustrating as it just bounces around. Same for Z-Rest. Thanks NOLSe: Therm-a-Rest RidgeRest 183 x 51 x 1.5 R=2.6 W=400g Zotefoams Evazote Winter 150 x 50 x 1.5 R=2.06 W=525g according to MEC site Yes, seems like the thin one would be great along with the pack's pad, I now think mine is Evazote, although white. (I still like the RidgeRest but it is bulky which so far has been more pain than extra ounces)

Well, I might be mistaken, it just seems that there is some sort of trend in usage of the Evazote pads. I like both RidgeRest, and Z-Rest which packs compact, and is quick(-er) to deal with. I've never seen the yellow pad, perhaps pluses are apparent once you fondle it...

The Evazote yellow pads are mentioned quite often here. Because the RidgeRest has been around for a while I am going to assume that quite a few of you have switched from it to the "yellow pad". Why? Thank you!

I saw an eVent bivy bag (1) at Marmot today - 3/17/05. Made by ID, I think.