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Everything posted by Rafael_H

  1. FS: Various Cams

    Bump. Attention Indian Creek goers!
  2. Weight: 19oz Carried and moved from place to place but don't think ever been used...
  3. Discuss

    remove these words from your language : conspiracy,leftist,lunatic,anarchist,unsubstantiated,according -to-the- pentagon,the-white-house-says,according-to -ret-general, unconfirmed-sources-tell-cnn/fox/abc/'tever,paranoia,delusion,perspective,whack -job, unpatriotic,communist,et al.. then you can talk....if not then you are listening to yourself spin. notin' more that crap is baggage. you cant move forward,dragging all that . if you are satisfied with the amount of truth you can 'handle' , then fine, spin it up, fluff it up and look pretty .truth takes courage.fluff is cheap. Hmmm, so what, "de-puff" and feel insignificant?! Or God forbid start anew looking for the real truth, squelch ego... Noooo, please no! (can't believe i am reading and even posting in spray - got tired reading about running )
  4. Grip tape for tools?

    The tape to buy is not the non-sticky one, but the one from 3M, I tried both. Only saw at Lowe's (electrical department), it is a large roll for ~$8+, but well worth it, comes in a box package ~4" wide. It is far easier to use because there is no backing to peel, it is wider and thicker than others. Really cool thing: use for your ice tools, pullup bar, Bachar ladder... Home Depot sells one too but a smaller roll and is narrower.
  5. Please send out good wishes for Olyclimber

    Never met you, Porter but wish you all the health in the world. Get well!!!
  6. Amen to what billcoe said! Can't recall but isn't Sunshine Dihedral the one right next to "To Bolt..."? That's not suck to flash that, it's great, way to go! (not been to smith since 2001).
  7. Treating the palms of ice climbing gloves?

    VW, thank you! I saw OR gloves, quite on par with BD Mixed Glove plus they said it was w/proof. Now will have to go see Punisher m-self, sounds good - never really like OR gear. Tool dip: I used it for tools - will not stand to ice tool use and will peel off, it's not like the factory molded grips. I think factory uses some heat based process, not dry.
  8. Core: YES Plastic: YES No pullups, no grip dev? Bush-y :tdown: :tdown: A young boy in the gym did an l-sit and went into a full handstand from there w/o touching ground but only see him climbing (hard!). Spectacular, but not at all typical!
  9. Treating the palms of ice climbing gloves?

    OK, got it, thank you! So do these leak at seams? I have N-waxed gloves for years - works great. I've taped all my tools with a special electrical rubber "splicing" tape from 3M so never friction problems, Ergo can be subtle because you might need no friction at the bend. Seamgrip: I have covered an entire palm w/it, works, but after a year the sealer peels, look like shedding snake skin. So resealing is then problematic because not all peels uniformly. I came to conclusion that for roadside ice-cragging just have a few pairs of thin(er) gloves, for longer routes carry thicker w/proof like BD Ice Glove. And I learned to rappel in some kind of a hand-overhand fashion w/o consistent slide of the rope through palms - gives more control w/wet ropes anyway. In the end yeah, the suckers won't last as long as say your jacket, I figured that first time I climbed ice so bought only screws with knobs... Ice is far more $$$ than rock.
  10. Just in case this is actually a question and not some rhetorical lamenting How do you know it is just your weight? No doubt body weight matters in maxing out your grade, but among all of the contributing factors I'd put the weight close to the lowest end of priorities. First and foremost, I hope you are not eyeing V6-V10 pulling ~20 year olds, trying to catch-up, especially if you are ~40. If it is your peers that rock, then make some comparisons: - How much worse are you on the campus board than they are? - How long can you hold an L-sit comparing to your buddies? - How heavy can you push-press (military press) in comparison? - How many L-pullups can you do in comparison? You can improve in all those 50% or (much) more w/o any weight management! And if you do everything else being equal you'll be much(!) closer to their grades. If on the other hand your friends don't show any significant advantage over you then it is likely you are simply not spending enough time climbing in the gym (I know you are local so outside is out of question), or climbing in the gym for fun and not systematically training. If everything else is equal then given your description you are overtraining/overdoing/underrecovering. I started (after 6y in limbo) from trying to loose weight and finally learned to pursue strength gains instead, and in 8 mo have doubled my grade w/o any major injury or multi-month sickness, and am confident will be climbing this summer better than ever before, being 6y older. Of course, if it is o n l y your weight that is different, then... you can't have it all, eh?
  11. FREE Climbing and R&I

    I have Climbing and Rock&Ice magazines since probably 1998. Please come and take it before the Allied Waste Services does. I am around Factoria.
  12. FREE Climbing and R&I

    Last call, will be gone next Monday.
  13. Treating the palms of ice climbing gloves?

    VW, are they not waterproof? I have not seen these, so looked at BD site and it says "BDry insert". How "dry" are they? I am looking for a thin dry glove and BD's look to be better than OR's. Thank you.
  14. OR Beacon Bill "Set to Pass"

    He-he, Jens, you just said it there - patrols, rentals, what f-in not = new positions, new activity (of filling empty with void as they say), more "service to the people". In this case government responded in a timely, proactive and decisive manner, which will surely appear in somebody's reelection campaign junk mail Cost? How can you put cost on people's lives!
  15. Metolius Ultralight Offset TCUs

    I have never used, nor felt a need for this kind. I can recall though a couple of cases where I placed an Alien with just 2 cams engaged. But never recall those being life or death placements. I know these cams are used but never seen anybody carrying them. What if everybody lists the local FREE routes (e.g. Squamish, Index, Vantage) you find are far better, or even key to protect with offsets [rather than with regular cams]? Location and grade would be really nice. BTW, I am not trying imply that one can always do without, that will always be subjective - just curious and have no extra $$$ (anymore ). Thank you!
  16. FS: Various Cams

    Ah, thank you! Got mixed up when rearranging.
  17. Wow, that's not funny Family, job = every trip is precious!
  18. camalots vs. forged friends

    You've only completed 50% of necessary due diligence,now finish up the rest: climb with Forged Friends on several granite climbs. I suspect you wouldn't need anybody's advice afterwards
  19. FREE Climbing and R&I

    The entire set weighs over 80#. USPS takes max 70# so 2 packages. I think it would cost you $35-40 book rate, I used ZIP 30303. Send you ZIP for better calculation. Even so I would have to ask for extra $ and you'd have to trust me to send the unused portion back. Let me know, there is time.
  20. falling on pro to learn better placement

    Not necessarily a bad idea. Dru and JosephH are right about bounce-testing vs falling. How far are you planning to fall? It wold not be very useful to test on 3ft falls. And you wouldn't see what actually was wrong with the placements. Plus often times pro walks. So perhaps, I think kevbone was first, hang a TR, jug up placing pro and clipping another bogus rope in (tied to yourself as if leading) to try to repro cams walking/nuts falling out. Then rap the same TR from placement to placement inspecting and bounce-testing each. Climbing instead of jugging is far better so you don't spend unrealistic time placing pro - that's were aiding is worse for revealing problems - given this is purely some preparation for "actual" climbing. The self-belay TR setup was also described in one of R&I or Climbing w-in last 6mo. And RuMR is correct too, you won't be doing this long, too boring, and there are almost as many different problematic placements as there are routes.
  21. Hmmm, Don, if the blobs plastered on the right hand rock are instrumental, bad - they were the only thing looking rotten that day, like a soggy heavy glacier ice, with wettness on the rock, likely detached... The rest looked so damn healthy though. I ain't going, no time, but hardmen should go using the column only. That's a cold spot, the ground was frozen even from half-way up the gully.
  22. All in great condition, some not opened - no time. Take all for $40.
  23. Shreddie was in superb condition! Too bad we wasted ourselves with the very-very Loose Lady and only had energy for Closet Secrets - nice fat WI3 also in great condition. Carl's Berg from the road looked to be in very respectable condition, hard but not necessarily rotten.