EJohnson
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You can also get back to Sahale Arm, by traversing under Davenport Gl and climbing 1000ft up snow gully.
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Winter climbs with low avalanche potential
EJohnson replied to chesterboo's topic in Climber's Board
Here's a link to Teneriffe directions & topo -
Winter climbs with low avalanche potential
EJohnson replied to chesterboo's topic in Climber's Board
Seriously, up until this last snow fall winter/spring hiking has been great. Hikes that I can think of with zero avalanche issues are; low land hikes or trails that stay in heavy timber. This winter I been hiking up to four times a week with rotation of trail up the I90 corridor like; Si, Westside trail – steeper & less people then the main trial Teneriffe – Go up the water fall trail & for more mileage Tenerife to Si traverse Mailbox – Worried about avalanches, Stay to left of both boulder fields Mt. Washington – Off of Ex38 West Defiance to Defiance to Bandera – Triple Peak Traverse – good vert & mileage Granite – Up the South Ridge – Stay out the gullies – Extra mileage Pt5566 & Pt5200 There’s a bunch more – also check out the lakes like; Pratt, Tuscohatchie & Melakwa makes a nice loop If you need directions & topos I can post Erick -
Winter climbs with low avalanche potential
EJohnson replied to chesterboo's topic in Climber's Board
Here's one - It does have some objective hazards; Baby Strollers, Dogs, Runners & Bikers. -
I too stumbled upon that cabin last year walking up the road during the closer. I did some searching; the cabin was built by Gilbert Landre 1893. Gilbert's Cabin The cabin is also listed in the National Register of Historic Places. Fred Beckey's "Range of Glaciers" book might have more info. I bet Lowell Skoog would have more information on the history too. I didn't find any information on the Middle Fork cabin.
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I have the FF Raven with eVent. Its has work well winter through summer. Last couple of years I haven't even used a bivy sack, only a small tarp. Erick
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Climb: Stuart-Ice Cliff Glacier Date of Climb: 2/26/2005 Trip Report: Old February trip report. With all the great weather I had to get out. After unsuccessful attempt to rope in a partner, I was looking for something I could solo. Something within my grade but still interesting. After reading Tod trip report, Ice Cliff Gl sounds like a good objective. At the very least I will have a look. Slept in my car at junction of Icicle & Eightmile Friday night. Woke up at 3:30am to a cold morning, frost covered windows inside and out. Started hiking up the road @ 4am under a bright full moon. It was so bright I didn’t need a headlamp until I reach the trail. With the help of a great boot path, I was at the base of route at 9. From the crest of the moraine, I could see a party of three just about to exit out the couloir. Man, they must have started very early. Up through the ice cliff on the left, one 12’ AI2 to flats. Another 10’ WI2 entering the couloir then 45 to 50 degree neve to the top. I spent about 3 hours on route and another 30 minutes to the summit. Coming down the Sherpa was tedious, couple of inches snow covering 45 degree neve. At the bottom of the glacier I caught up to the party three. Turns out to be Gyselinck and party, back from a failed attempt the previous weekend. Back to car around 7:30, hour later I eating a big bowl of pasta and drinking a Dead Guy in town. Great conditions, Great Weather!! Gear Notes: Tools & Crampons I would like to thank the companies that I sponsor: GU, Safeway Peanutbutter and Bread. If it wasn't for them none of this would have happened!! Approach Notes: Snow
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Nice pictures Collin. I would like to have a party up there, everyone bring a dish to pass.
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We followed the topo in the Beckey Book. The horn picture is just after the face pitch with fixed pin. Maybe your thinking about the first white horn. Last year I went over that, there was a lodged red cam just below the block. Multiple variation can be done up there, very easy to pass slower groups.
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It was very nice up there. We lounged on the summit 30 minutes: eating, taking pictures & picking out other routes. Compared to last July we had snow flurries, high wind we started rapping immediately.
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I'm thinking about high energy prices, Lucky Enron is not around to gouge price of electricity. Something else to think about, according to opensecets.org Enron contributed $1,794,154 to the Republican party in 2000. Enron also gave $741,669 to the Democrats. Cool site, kinda reminds me of factcheck.org. You can also search by organization, corporation or by donor name. Erick
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They even included the clear cut.
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Pictures from last weekend, taken by Jesse Salk Snow Lake South Face Lake Viviane West Ridge 2nd Pitch Horn
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Looking at the WADOT site, I90 is close 3 miles east of North Bend and Westbound at Easton. West Slopes Central Cascades and Passes Forecast; Accumulations of 4 to 8" tonight with total accumulations of 8 to 11" Still not enough to get us out of the coming drought. Erick
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Nooksack Tower
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It doesn't look like winter up there. Snow Creek Wall & descent was bare and dry. All the lakes are still frozen over, but almost everything with southern exposer is melted out. The trail with slabs climbing up to Lake Viviane from Snow Lk are melted. As for car-to-car time, around 18 hours. Started around 4am and got back around 10pm, very long day. It’s so beautiful up there, we were in no hurry to leave. Many thanks to Jesse, good conversation, sharing his food and carrying the rope. Last year, mid-summer we did round trip in 12 hours. I contribute that to dry trail and summer hiking legs. Looks like winter is back. There’s a snow advisory in effect until Thursday morning with accumulations up to 11 inches above 3000 feet. Erick
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Or Asshard
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Climb: Prusik Car-to-Car-West Ridge Date of Climb: 3/12/2005 Trip Report: From Snow Creek Wall on, the trail is compact snow and ice with a nice boot path all the to the west ridge. The southern face & west ridge is bare and dry. Descent ledges are all snow covered, ice axe very handy to get back to the start.
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Come On!, its only an extra hour of hiking from Icicle to the trail head
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I came across interesting peak register today on Putrid Pete's Peak (West Defiance) The first page was dated 6/25/01 signed by Tom Hornbein & Pete Schoening. It got me thinking about the mountaineering history that comes with those two names. Tom Horbein & Willi Unsoeld traverse of Everest. Pete Schoening ice-axe arrest on K2, saving 5 climbers in 1953 Pete just passed away September 22, 2004 I just thought it was cool to see their names on an obscure peak in the I-90 corridor.
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As of the 25th the Forest Service reports its open to Eldorado gate. Forest Road Conditions Report
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Here is a picture I took couple of years ago. I too heard someone put a route up.
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Klenke, I have been searching for two weeks for the answers to your trivia questions. I have look through Becky's books and searched the web. Then I figured the answers must be on your web site Answers to Klenke trivia questions are; Found and taken from John Roper wonderful web site. Glaciologist Dick Hubley was so impressed with the icy white blanket here that he applied the Chinook name "Kahloke" for "swan" to this glacier. Austin Post "polished" Kaloke a bit to the "more unique and attractive Klawatti ."
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Looking for an alpine rock climbing partner(s) for this weekend. Routes that are on my list are; Route on Johannesberg NE Butt or East Route via over Mixup NE Ridge on Triumph East Face Direct on Chimney Rock North Ridge on Forbidden, done east and west ridge wouldn’t mind seeing the north side I’m always open to other ideas, light & fast one day push or two Email or call (206) 331-0495 Erick Johnson
