EJohnson

I ran the Topo software again heres what I came up with.

The upper snowfield track were visible but partial filled in. Ones going to Colchuck were starting to melt out but easy to follow. According to Topo software, TH to summit to Colchuck and out via Colchuck Col is around 7400' gain 11.5 miles. Erick

Climb: Redemption on Argonaut-NE Gully Date of Climb: 5/9/2004 Trip Report: Went back to Argonaut on Sunday. John was feeling real guilty about not summiting the Sunday before and wanted to make it up to me. How could I not pass up free food and gas. Anyways on the trail by 9am on the summit by 4. We had very good conditions with hard snow. Wore crampons up the gully and on the upper snowfield. Check out the summit register, it looks like we were the first party to summit this year We had a nice traverse over to Colchuck Pk, Thanks to the Sergio party for the boot path. Took this picture of the route on Argonaut from the summit of Colchuck. Erick Johnson Gear Notes: Ice axe, Crampons & rope for one short rap

John and I were the other party up there last weekend. John was little too freaked out with with the exposure of the upper snowfield to continue. Which is odd since we climbed much harder routes last summer. Anyways, its a cool route. I'm sure it will become real popular. Saturdays party of three, I took some pictures of you guys on the upper snowfield I will post them when I get my film back. Erick

Lost a green 9mm rope along the Stuart Lake trail late Sat. afternoon. Thanks Erick Johnson

Sierra Trading Post has last years Lasers $249.95 Scarpa Laser

Well that seals the deal - East Ridge it is. Thanks for info Erick

Thanks for posting the photo that helps. So is the start of the couloir bypass just left of the couloir under the gullys running down from the notch? Beckey lists it at several class 4 pitches. Anyone tried it? What it all comes down to.. is were are going to try it in a day this weekend. I'm just trying to figure if its going to be too much screwing around to get up on the west ridge.

Any one been up there recently. How is it getting onto the ridge? Thx Erick

I'm going in to West Mcmillan Spire this weekend if anyone would like to go along. I will be leaving Seattle Saturday 8am. Email or Call 206 331-0495 Erick

We brought second tools & pickets never took them off the pack. We were roped but didn't belay any pitchs. We had great conditions with one short bridge crossing. I was very surprised how easy it was, I don't think the slope ever got any steeper 45 degrees. On the way down the North Ridge (around 10 grand) we traverse climber left to the long diamond shape snowfield. Much quicker then coming down that shitty North Ridge. Have Fun Erick

I was on Adam Gl last Sunday. Very easy, straight up the right side of glacier. 4 1/2 hours from 7000 ft camp. Erick

Me and friend will be coming in from the north - see you all on the summit. Erick

Some good size avalanches have swept the upper snowfield all the way to the trees. The first ice pitch to the upper snowfield looks very thick. Above that, looks thin and rotten with a good size cornice topping the face. I have a couple of pictures of the face. I will post on Wednesday.

This last weekend I skinned up and bivy on the NE Ridge of Graybeard. Climb Graybeard via the Northeast Face in a snowstorm on the summit 7:30Pm Saturday evening. The Northeast Face consisted of 40-degree snow and some ice. For anyone wanting to climb the North Face, the Northeast Face descent seems like a better option then the Easy Pass. Cheers Erick

I had the same blister problems with the Makalu. I switch to Nepal Extreme. 3 years no blisters and no problems besides I had them resoled last year. Erick

Enjoy the shoveled off bridge. Me and a couple of guys from California cleaned off the bridge 2 weeks ago. The boot pack is in, but skiing made the trip out much more enjoyable and in half the time. Erick

Distel32, I'm going early Saturday morning with a coworker. Maybe we should try line something up next weekend. Erick

I might have a partner lined up, I will let you know tomorrow. Erick

Sorry, not me

Looking for a partner for something in the Stuart Range next weekend 29-30th. I was thinking; North Buttress Couloir on Colchuck or Northeast Gully on Argonaut. But open for suggestions. Erick

If your using ski just to get up the glacier I would would switch to silvretta 500 and use your Koflachs. But on the other hand, your dragging a slad up the 14k so you could take anything want.

I haven't notice a change in breathability after applying scotchgard. What I have noticied is that my jacket is lighter and dryer because its not wetting out. If you really want to know whats in scotchgard here, is a link to pdf file from 3M. scotchgard

Have you tried it? It beads up the water just all the others.